BTU Shocker Mod - XM-L2 U2's/SinkPAD's

I think you will be happy with the XM-L2 U2 swap for a good while. It’s an impressive mod.

would sony 30a’s be safe to run in a shocker?

I would assume so. But why would you want too? Any good Panasonic based 18650 can handle the 3.8A it draws from each cell. Even bumped a little it’s a non issue.
I guess if its ultra low resistant, it might get a little jump in output. I know Panasonic PD’s did give my BTU a little boost in Tom E’s testing. If that’s the goal I can understand using them.

Next time you have it apart cut two notches in the face with a hacksaw or small file. Same thing I do with those silly lens retainers in the head of a 501b.

Something tells me to buy Shocker Mods. lol
J)

Yeah, that’s a good idea. The 10-15 times I’ve had this apart, I still haven’t added notches… the pliers have added deep enough scratches to be considered notches now :wink:

just got back in from playing with my shocker. its a beast man. very clean tight beam. It’s amazing what can be done these days. I would love to see it modded like you have done. How are you centering the emitters? Do you use the original holders? Again, kudos bruddah!

Rich - you are probably talking to relic or comfychair, but just finished another Shocker mod, finally. Got 25% increase in lumens, 38% increase in candela. On KeepPower 3400's, lumens at 30 secs is 3,597 and throw is 167 kcd. On fresh Pana PD's (no magnets, just straight), lumens at 30 secs is 3,685 and throw is 173 kcd.

Before the mods, base #'s on stock Shocker plus UCL/p on Pana PD's using magnets: lumens at 30 secs is 2,937, throw is 125 kcd.

Used XM-L2 U2 1C's from IS, 20 mm SinkPAD's (from VOB), 20 gauge silicone wire, AS5 under the SinkPAD's and a little Fujik on the edges of the SinkPAD's to help lock it down. I did re-use the original centering plastic rings, but Fujik'd them in place to hold them. Then, custom cut 3M plastic isolator rings (from IOS I believe) to cover the wire connectors. Also, using the stock Shocker driver. The battery carrier was modifed for just the 3 battery springs - bent the top loop inward of each of 3 springs, then soldered in solder wick wire (1.5mm) after wiping them down in iso. alcohol, and added extra solder to the base of the springs. I also (always now) sanded/polished the bottoms of the SinkPAD's and top of the pill from 240 grit to 2500 grit (8 levels of grit). The pill top if the shocker has heavy circular machine marks and made sure they were gone.

What's weird is the lumens on the Pana PD's actually goes up during the first 30 seconds, but on the KeepPowers, it goes gently down, but only like 40 lumens.

That was all!! Nothing to it! (just a few days...) Now time for the next, and next, ......

Cool Tom. Looks like your going to be busy with a bunch of BTU’s now :slight_smile:
Hopefully its a little easier now that you have done a couple of them.
Anyway, anybody on the fence about modding your BTU - DO IT. A BTU is an awesome light - a BTU with XM-L2’s on copper Sinkpads, put together with expect care by someone like Tom = a BEAST of a light!!
Look at it this way - a BTU modded can have 30-40% more throw & still put out 5-10% more lumens than a RC40. And a BTU and all parts needed can be bought for about 1/2 the price of a RC40. And with this quality work like above, I dare say it has quality to match the RC40 too.
And not knocking the RC40 - it’s pretty much King Kong of the high lumen throwers on the market and being from Fenix I’m sure its an excellent light. But that light as a baseline shows just how impressive these BTU’s can be.

Spending some time now on the battery carrier, can't quite figure out the overall design some good points, some bad points. The springs look like high quality and soldered well in place, but they are so soft considering all the weight involved. I was thinking of replacing them all, but not sure if the springs I buy are really any better, they may be worse. I've seen the plating just chip off on some springs, like when you bend the top loop of the wide end. A TN31 or TK75 carrier is soo much more cleaner and tighter in design, though the stand-off pedestals and caps look high qual on the Shocker.

Two things though are definite: bend the top loop on the 3 battery springs, and add more solder to the base of all springs. I did the solder wick down the middle of the 3 battery springs, but didn't remove the springs to do it - was able to solder the bottom to the outside to get a solid connection to the base. Would have prefered removing the springs, but they had a pretty clean solder job on the springs so wasn't sure how easy it would be to remove them. Overall though with the spring mods, I got about exactly 100 lumens out of it, with KeepPower's or Pana PD's. Makes me wonder now if the 2 springs to the driver would have paid off mod'ing as well...

Tom E has pretty much done everything I have done, except I went a little further and smoked the driver :wink:
I have much lower measurements, but the modded BTU is easily the brightest light I have, both in throw and lumen output.
I’ve heard people say it is too heavy or too awkward, but I’ve put it through the paces and it works well. The weight is no problem, side clicky would be nice.

Before:

After:

All polished up:

Clear view of the rings:

I smoothed the pill area as well. Once you get to 2000 grit paper, things take on a mirror-like finish. Very nice.

There are so many lights that I would have bought if they werent glued… including the TK70.

Just say no to glued flashlights! |(

That looks great Tom E. Did you buy those thin insulation disks or make them? Got a link or can you tell us what material you used? It sure looks a lot better than kapton tape.

I'm like 98% sure it's these in a translucent style: http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml-insulation-gaskets-10-pcs-p-463.html. They got the 3M trademark on the back. I cut out the center square hole to make it bigger, using a small cutting pliers. They came out in the pic looking like they were made to fit, but if you look closely, the cut out is more octagonal shape from a series of straight cuts from the cutters. I've used these before, come in real handy because of the 19mm diameter. Think I'll be ordering more along with some of those noctigon copper MCPCB's reviewed by PPtk.

Update: ordered more, ordered some of the noctigons at each size/type. Their springs look excellent quality - got a bunch of sizes, ordered more...

Anyone else do a tailcap reading across the switch?

I'm curious what others are seeing measuring amps this way, if you get in the neighborhood of 3.85A or not. I think one of the reviewers noted 3.6A on turbo.

I’m not sure if these springs would fit or not but I have used the ’’A” ones and they are very stiff. On a 5 amp driver it makes no difference to the current if the battery is resting on it or being pushed hard with the spring on the driver and tailcap measurements being taken.

Yes - I used these on one Shocker - makes a very tight fit for KP 3400's. 5 amp driver? Stock Shocker driver is supposedly 3.8A and the DRY driver is direct drive, so it's higher based on lumens/throw I got but didn't do a tailcap reading...

Ok guys you made me confused, so please help with few questions!

1. Doesent all BT shocker already come with U2 lens as stated on CNQG site?

2. Doesent all BTU Shocker already come with better lens as of lately then the old revisions? what lens are you guys using to mod?

3. What driver should i pick during my order, DRY vs BTU what are the pros and cons, does it really worth it to go for DRY?

4. I got some high end thermal paste, Artic Cooling MX-4, it beats Artic Silver for whole 2c, should i use this, instead of the stock - to mod the cooling, is it easy to replace the paste?

Thanks guys!