Solarforce switch (L2-S1) dead in less than 5 minutes - faulty or operator error?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I just got a new solarforce host (L2m 2009 model, with extension tube), giving me enough parts to try 4xAA (eneloop) with my Solarforce 3-6V drop-in. Everything seemed to work great and seemed to be within reasonable specifications (4xNiMH = 4.8v). Unfortunately, after just a few minutes my switch had melted, fusing the circuit closed. I had to unscrew the tailcap to turn the light off. Once I did this, smell of burning/melting electronics was evident coming from the switch.

So, what do you say? Was it too much to expect the switch to stand up to this or did I get a defective switch?

Thanks for your input!

2

My 5-mode drop-in has now become a 1-mode drop-in. At least the one mode is high.

3

Well, fully charged NiMH usually has 1,4-1,45V. Still less than 6V :| Have you tried to open your faulty clickie?

4

Thanks for your response. I just lined them up and measured the voltage for the 4 of them together - I got ~5.2 volts.

Here's the remarkable thing: I measured 4 amps at the tailcap! Most people say that you can expect only 2 amps from eneloops, though Sanyo does indicate that they can discharge at up to 4 amps: http://www.eneloop.info/home/performance-details/discharge-current.html

5

Eneloops can give at least 8A without sagging far in voltage. This is enough to weld open a lot of switches. I can short mine through a meter and get more than 20A (At not a lot of volts). i.e., melt the fuse in the meter.

IMO the switch is faulty.