Cool concept. Kinda like the big brother to the Rook. Not to crazy about the NiMh batteries though.
Sounds quite interesting. Cool concept.
Just mount the LED sinkpad directly to the driver contact plate and direct drive it. Who needs room for a driver or a giant heat sink. LOL!
I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with to compensate for the extra reflector depth. It seriously looks like it goes as deep as the driver contact plate. No wonder you will need to use shorter cells. ;)
No need to ask “Why?” Old-Lumens, you do it ’cos you can!
Keep up the good work 
Woody
He’s at it again… ALREADY! :bigsmile:
Well, I am the NiMH guy,
but with so many hobby cells out there, I can use NiMHs that will take 30C draw and that’s a lot better than any Li-ions will, which means longer run times. (or it should).
Thinking about buying a Fenix tk75
and cutting it in half ..
I always wanted two tk 37.5 s
I suppose 17500s might work, but I was thinking of 4/5A NiMH. Once I measure it all, I will know more about what will fit, but definitely I will need shorter batteries, to have a heat sink and contact board, since the reflector is just about flush with where the stock driver is. Actually, the heat sink/contact board may all have to be in the body, so probably 4/5A or maybe even shorter like 2/3A. I will know more tomorrow.
:nerd_face:
but love the creativity…
I think this is a great project! A fat short thrower! I like it!
de-domed xpe2 @ 3 amps
me gusta.
actually, when i saw the thread title, I half expected to see a simple mod to 3*de-domed xpe2
then I saw the username 
I'm thinking, from what I see, that the LED, star, Heat sink, Driver and contact plate will have to be inside the body.
If I add all that up
- LED/Star - 3mm
- Heat sink - 15mm
- Driver - 8mm
- Contact plate - 4mm
So, I am looking at about 30mm. If I go with 65mm as the starting point, then it only leaves me with 35mm room for batteries. That's not a lot of room for batteries and it leaves me with my first thought (2/3A NiMHs). They are only 1600mA, but they are 10C batteries, so they will take high drain. 4 of them would work well for the XM-L2.
But..... if I go with a shorter stack up, the obvious thing is to cut back on the heat sink, go with 10mm thickness and make it a tight fit in the body, (no small chore when you think of the clover leaf opening in the body).
- LED/Star - 3mm
- Heat sink - 10mm
- Driver - 8mm
- Contact plate - 4mm
Gives me 25mm, so it leaves 40mm room for batteries. I can also get 5mm more if I use shorter springs, so that would give me a total of 45mm room. Now, let's look at what choices I have.
RCR123A - 17mm x 34.5mm not much power there 900mA max and that's asking a lot, but with 4 in parallel, it might work.
18350 - 18mm x 37mm at 1200mA and with 4 in Parallel it gives me plenty of power.
4/5A NiMH - 2000mA and I don't see the High C rating, so I assume not more than 2C. Still, it might be ok.
I am just showing you what I go through when I look for what battery configuration I am going to use on a light and of course I favor NiMHs. I usually use two sources for battery dimensions Wiki and Allbattery.
I am really tempted to go with the 2/3A NiMH due to the High C rate, but what do y'all think about it?
2/3 AA sounds good
the more heatsinking the better
Awesome, I’ve always wanted to see this done!
Hi OL,
I’m still new and I always have this idea to change my SRK to single emitter.
My suggestion is build another section between head and battery housing.
This to allow more room for your driver.
Great project.
OL, did you happen to test the reflector for its beam pattern with XML yet?
If it's this one: http://www.fasttech.com/product/1051800 it's pretty nice. I have one in a XML/3-D Mag.
edit: Oops, overlooked the dimensions in the first post, that's not it.