The Sky-Ray King Thrower Mod........ It's Finished! Beam shots are up

I’m not seeing how you can get 6v out of a nanjg and 4 nimh? seems to me your 1.2v short before driver losses.

Despite feeling xm-l tedium, my vote is for an xm-l and my gut reaction is xp-g2 3d tbh….

It’s just removed from a star. The leds came from cutter, sent to me by an AU member, who shall remain nameless, unless he wishes to name himself.Wink

I’d rather see the mtg-2/reflector in a d sized mag that can give an easy 8.4v, much simpler driver options I feel. :bigsmile:

Per another knowledgeable member:

Two AMC Drivers in Master/Slave

One one AMC Driver, you’d have to remove the SO-8 Chip (ATTINY13A).

Both AMC Board BAT+ connected to BAT+
Both AMC Board BAT- connected to BAT-
Solder wire from a VDD Pin of an AMC7135 of the Master board to a VDD Pin of the Slave board
LED+ to BAT+ or to Both AMC Board LED+ Connections
LED- to LED- on both Master and Slave board.

Edit, I put up incorrect information on this. This would only increase the amperage.

I'm sure not everyone saw the thread but Intl-Outdoor will soon be stocking the MT-G2s and their house-brand copper MCPCBs for them as well.

Man, that just gave me an idea. Couldn’t two drivers be run in series off the batteries to half the voltage to each. Example: Positive from battery to first driver’s positive, negative from first driver to positive of second driver, and negative from second driver to battery negative. Then parallel the drivers to the LED with one being a master.

That would give you double the current, but not the voltage needed to make it light up. Unless there's some other trick involved I'm not aware of.

You'd have to have a supply voltage higher than the LED's Vf, and a way to keep the MCU from frying at that higher voltage (which is possible), but you ain't gonna get there with only four NiMH.

comfychair’s response to another post also answered mine. Serial drivers would not provide enough voltage. Like above, the current would double, but not the voltage. So, while the drivers would not fry, the emitter would not light up.

The output to the LED is parallel. led+ and led+ together, to the led. led- and led- together to the led. This gives you twice the voltage. It's a parallel circuit to the led. It's just like two batteries in parallel. + to + and - to - gives you parallel, that increases the voltage. Series is + to - and increases the amperage. Actually this set-up increases both, as it really is series parallel. The removal of the slave controller and the wire from master VDD to slave VDD on the 7135 circuit produces control to all 7135 chips.

Am I missing something here? I don't think so, but I could be wrong, (like just about every day).

EDIT: Yes, I am wrong. Completely wrong and worst of all I still don't get it.

I believe parallel loads doubles the current, but the voltage stays the same (excluding battery sag).

Serial batteries doubles the voltage. Serial loads split the voltage but the current stays the same.

EDIT: Where are you getting your bare mgt2 emitters?

EDIT2: Opps. Thank you for the answer above. I’m a dumb a.

Nope, that's backwards. Parallel doubles the amperage, series doubles the voltage, and down to the way 7135s regulate only on the negative path you can't connect them in series. Too bad they don't work like DC power supplies, huh?

You'll have to have either the supply voltage above the LED's Vf (2s2p lithiums at 8.4v) (and then, either use a buck driver, or use a work-around to keep the 105C's MCU alive at the higher voltage and try to get the 7135s to burn off the excess ~2.5v), OR, use a boost driver if you stick with 4s NiMH.

Nope. that’s bass ackwards…

Well, that is ass backwards. Makes me feel like the fool that I am. I feel like slinking away after this bit of stupidity.Embarassed My apologies for not knowing my arse from a …

It’s pretty well documented by me and one or two others that 6V is not a problem for the 7135 chips if the led is dropping most of the voltage. Then all you need is a voltage regulator IC to maintain 3-5V to the Attiny mcu. That done, master/slave works fine. I personally have run up to 12V with 3 series XML this way. For 6V input I would use an LD2981 5V chip like this.

I have no idea what you just said, was that Greek or what? But I am very glad you know how to move those things around and get to where you’re going! :slight_smile:

Gonna have to have another Black Russian after that one….

Easy there, sparky...

In this thread, Rufusbduck does some pretty extensive experimentation with a Nanjg 105c type driver. In post 43, 4th picture down, there is an actual example of what he is talking about above. Please correct me if I’m wrong Rufusbduck.

Well, after a bad session with this light, I have decided to put it on hold. This may be a real Sky Ray, but after what I have seen tonight, it probably is a poor clone. The head to body is a mismatch. If a single reflector is put in the head, it is not centered. It is off center which means when you turn the head, the led hole would look like it is turning in an oval. If you have ever seen an off center reflector, you will understand what I am trying to say. Maybe not the best explanation, but anyhow either the head or body was not cut true. You could never take the head off, without taking the reflector out first. If it were turned off, it would wipe out the led dome. With the stock 3-up, it wouldn't matter, since the reflector and LEDs are stationary to each other, but with a single reflector it shows up big time.

Also the threads are super sloppy and you can almost pull the head right off the body because the threads are so bad. It's fairly depressing to see the lack of quality there and compared to the Fandyfire I had, it's just poorly machined, plain and simple.

I put it up till I figure out if I bother with it or maybe get another fandyfire to use as a host. It's a real shame.

One word, BUGGER.

Yep, I see the same things on the one I just got. The OD of the battery tube o-ring is 1.980", the ID of the o-ring bore in the head is 1.988", it doesn't even touch. Also they've switched to a much thinner lens and make up for it with a super fat o-ring to use as a spacer. The crown bezel is aluminum, instead of stainless.

This isn't about fake-vs.-genuine, as all of them are copies. But I think they've finally crossed that line where the lower price no longer makes the flaws tolerable. Flaws that don't affect the function are one thing, but o-rings that don't actually seal are kinda a deal breaker. Why didn't they just omit the o-rings? They could have saved another .00031 cents per unit.

Anyone know of a source for a better quality BLACK SRK?