Exactly. That's how I did it. This way the TIR is located slightly higher / further away from emitter, and it works! Plus the construction is still water tight, even more than the original. :)
Hi,
I got two of these lights, and, FYI, one of them, the black one, already had the O-ring in the right place. I only had to move it one my Titanium one.
Jim, please delete your post or picture so it doesn’t confuse people with the incorrect information. 
Great size comparison, thanks for the awesome pic
+1 to the above. It puts it in perspective very well. Thanks Suncoaster.
My black DQG 18650 with neutral T6 arrived today.
Initial thoughts:
*Very lightweight and small for an 18650 light
*Feels good in the hand. Nice size and quite grippy.
*Very nice beam pattern with good tint.
*The clip was VERY hard to remove. That sucker didn’t want to come off at all. I had to pry it off with a screwdriver. This caused a few scratches to the anodizing around the top edge of teh clip slot. Even though this isn’t a screwed on clip, if you use it for pocket carry I think there is very little chance the clip would come off accidentally.
*Upon receiving the light, the bezel o-ring needed to be reinstalled as it was in the wrong position. This was expected based on the earlier notice from Ric.
*The head turned extremely easily when I received the light. Close inspection revealed that there was only 1 o-ring between the head and the body even though there was a second slot. I grabbed one of the spare black o-rings from the box and stuck it in this slot to give much better tension between head and body.
*It is hard to reliably change modes without 2 hands. One-handed operation seems to often result in jumped modes.
*I haven’t tested it yet, but I doubt this light will work with flat top cells.
Done.
Do NOT attempt to use flat top cells in this light.
I just tried a Zebralight brand 18650 in it.
Not only did it not work, but the cell is now completely stuck and cannot be removed. I may have to toss this brand new light. YUCK!! :weary:
Try the taping to a hammer trick.
Whew!
I managed to remove the battery, but it was tough. I soldered a strip of tin to the end of the cell as a handle, then used pliers to grip the handle and remove the cell. It took some effort, but it worked.
After seeing so many that got good units I am a little irritated as if the first 100 were just rushed out the door. As stated earlier I have all kinds of little quircks with mine that many folks do not. I did replace the O-Ring as the diagram shows and it did fix the rings. The issue there with mine was as soon as I took my metal ring off the debris from the optics where if was forced together and ultimately crashed, fell into the optics. pretty irritating. I hope everyone else gets a good one. For now I will reserve further judgement till I get a reply back.
I may do one better and put together a video review to post on it as soon as I get time.
Slapped a quick video together anyway. As you can see in the video the Sanyo UR18650ZT do fit till they get 3/4 of the way down the tube where the machining is not complete. Also I show tapping the light to switch modes, it looks like I am hitting it hard somewhat but I am not. The noise you hear is the battery rattling around in the tube. Also if you look at the end of the video you can also see the white crush ring on the optics where it was crushed during final assembly I imagine. I did not take time to show the other issues or the debris in the optics from loosening the optics to install the O-Ring correctly. Like I said, I believe I may have gotten the lemon. i did post this on another forum but figured I might as well add it here as well.
Hi,
Where’s that 2nd slot for the O-ring? I don’t see it on either of mine… or may be I’m just mis-seeing it? Pic would be nice?
Don’t have one in hand yet, but to fix the bump-for-mode-change problem, could you reach down there with some hemostats or long needle nose pliers and stretch the spring a little? I imagine the mode change is coming from the battery bouncing just enough to break contact.
I’m glad I held of on buying one of these. Best to give it a few months so they can work out the kinks and produce a light that has gone through sufficient quality control.
I was able to pull the spring and stretch it a bit but it is pretty weak and it really didn’t do it much good. I also sanded the tube down to allow the Sanyo to slide in. The light will not allow any of the protected cells 69 +mm in length as well. They are too long. That leaves out the Panasonic and Sanyo 2800+mah protected batteries it was originally said to be compatible with.
I figured out where that slot for the 2nd O-ring is. Pic below. The head feels much more secure after adding the 2nd O-ring, and it doesn’t turn on everytime you touch it now.
Also, BTW, the small, black O-ring is the one that goes on both the 1st and 2nd slots, not the larger white O-ring. FYI, one of my lights had NEITHER the 1st or 2nd O-ring:
I took the picture with the Ti one, because you can’t really see the O-rings on the black one.
Edit: The threads and the O-rings are as dry as dust - I’ll be putting some grease on now…
I still have not received my light… and my tracking still does not work.
Is there anyone else who’s experiencing the same thing?
Also, I just checked the FF website and the original list of names is no longer there… including mine… should I be worried?
Anyone know what’s going on?
Thanks!
Hi,
I don’t know, but they may have eliminated the list because they’re done shipping the pre-orders. Maybe if you see RIC online, you can PM him, or email him via their website?
Thanks for the suggestion… I emailed him earlier with a previous query but got no answer… will try pm as well…
Weird there’s so much quality variances….My Keeppower 18650 3400mAH batteries fit in my black DQG 18650 w/ XM-L2 without a problem. The head on mine is nice and tight even with only one o-ring.
Well I’ve had this light for two days now and am still amazed that it’s the same size as my larger single CR123 lights e.g. HDS Clicky, SF E1L…