DQG 18650 EDC--World's Smallest 18650 Flashlight

Thanks for the suggestion… I emailed him earlier with a previous query but got no answer… will try pm as well…

Weird there’s so much quality variances….My Keeppower 18650 3400mAH batteries fit in my black DQG 18650 w/ XM-L2 without a problem. The head on mine is nice and tight even with only one o-ring.

Well I’ve had this light for two days now and am still amazed that it’s the same size as my larger single CR123 lights e.g. HDS Clicky, SF E1L…

Anyone in the UK got theirs yet?

My tracking does work on Singpost. Says it shipped to the UK on the 30th April and arrived on the 3rd of May - hooray. Sadly 7 days later from touching down in the UK and no sign of it :frowning:

Mine arrived today in Amsterdam, hooray! . And I am delighted, it is just as nice as I came to expect, I think it looks extremely cool. I am lucky to have gotten one that isn't faulty. The finish is a nice matt black, it came with the white o-ring in the wrong position, with the two black ones in place, one spare white o-ring and two spare black ones. Threading was dry, cleaned it a bit and lubed it with a little silicone grease, one-handed operation works fine. The neutral led is quite cool, rough guess 5500K. I think this will be a good bike-light too.

Mine arrived today!!!

Not exactly trouble free, but I do like it.

Review here: DQG Tiny 18650 XM-L2 Review & Comparison

My 2 lights finally arrived today.

I agree with all you said. I don’t like the flicker and it is way too easy to jump modes. The only way to prevent that is to use 2 hands and twist it firmly and quickly.

The 2 black o-rings were not installed and I had to move the other to behind the TIR.

The threads were also dry and gritty.

Otherwise, this is my first 18650 light and I like it.

Brother and I got our DQG’s in today. Mines black, his is the Ti version. Both look nice. Neither had the little o-ring on the head and both were also bone dry. So we put the oring on, relocated the clear optic oring as Ric said to do, lubed the threads up.
Very nice little lights. Nice beam and pretty good power for a compact light.
Did a quick impromptu test on both lights with a slightly used 18650 cell. They read almost identical. Both did about 510 after 30sec. Also did 194 on medium and 18 on low. Throw was right at 5.3K.
Basically we’re both pretty pleased with our lights.

I couldn't resist to have a peak at the driver.

It appears that the alu ring inside the head (that is the contact plate for the minus when the light is twisted on) is fujiked onto the electronics of the driver/led board, so I broke that up while screwing the ring out (oops), also scraped the electronics a bit with the tweezer points (the alu ring is not very thick so the tweezer points sticked out at the other side)(=oops2). But after I carefully screwed the ring back in tight, it all still worked (pfwew ). I do not advice to try this at home, but in the meantime I did take the picture :

It left me with a question though: the threading on the inside of the head is anodised too, so the alu ring officially has no electrical contact with the head, right?. So how does the minus reach the driver? Is it the direct contact with the top of electronics? I guess not, a strange way to do it, and they should not have used the (non-conducting) Fujik then. My guess is that the anodising inside is uneven enough that the ring makes contact to the inside of the head anyway.

Did you try ohming the negative contact on the driver PCB to somewhere on the body while you had this opened up? That would have shown you whether or not there’s a ground path without a battery in the light.

Great light, but because the O-Ring was placed on the wrong side of the tir, when screwed on at the factory, the TIR tightened all the way down to scraped against the LED pad which caised the Optic to get scrtched creating plastic burs, and also scraped up the LED pad. Luckily it didnt touch the LED itself. Also, it was missing both the O-rings on the threads, and the threads were dry as desert bone. I’ll need a new TIR optic, but I’m sure RIC will get me sorted.

I have the same problem. The bottom of my TIR is chipped badly and left plastic fragments in the lens. Emailed RIC for replacement, no reply yet.

Just noticed I got an email from Ric where he offers the DQG buyers 1x Panasonic 3100 unprotection 18650 at 6usd including shipping.
That is a really good price but not sure how you order it, regular price is 9USD.

Hi,

I sent him email, twice, but haven’t seen a response yet. Also I’m wondering if we bought 2 lights, can we get 2 batteries, and asked that also.

just got an email from him…. he’ll send you his paypal directly…

I too received a response from Ric. Was very pleased with Ric’s willingness to resolve the issues with my light as well as how quickly he responded to my email. Hopefully I will have the issues resolved quickly.

Hi,

Has anyone found out how to do the battery purchase? I got his email, twice, and asked “How?” twice, but no response yet.

Thanks,
Jim

I just got his paypal address… i’d assume pay him directly and put what you’re getting in the payment description…?

That’s what I did, plus I followed up with an email to the cnq email address to RIC.

Received it today, the Ti version, lens is roughed up in the center hole with plastic bits that needed cleaned out and it’s also chipped on the sealing edge, I flipped the o-ring position and after adding super lube grease to the threads I like it better. I’m going to ask Rick to send me a new lens and the $6 battery.

Except for the tint I like my Olight S-20 better, for about the same price it’s only about 15mm longer, slightly thinner, side switch, a nice UI, fits a protected battery, and magnet in tail. I do prefer the head down clip position of the DQG.

Not to change the original topic but I’m with you on the S20 Baton. I got it and an S10 but I prefer the S20 due to the better interface. It’s a hell of a great little light and my only gripe is the green tint it puts on everything.