The MTG2's "5000k" is somehow very different from the XML2 & XPG2's "5000k". I generally hate both those in that tint, too yellow-brown for my unsophisticated eyes, but the MT-G2 is just byoootiful.
The last hour in a proper CC/CV charger contributes about a third of the total energy pumped into cell. In the digital real-time read-out of my hobby charger, you can see that although the voltage pumped is already in the 4.17 to 4.2V vicinity, the current is still way behind, usually by almost a third of its actual capacity, gradually increasing. So removing a cell that has reached 4.2v early on does not mean it has reached its full capacity, the current pumped will gradually decrease to about 1/10th of the charging rate you set before termination.
Also, a hobby charger will also tell you the health of your cell. Your cell may get to 4.17 –4.2V but you will also know how much current it stored by doing a discharge capacity test. You will notice this is a light that has a timed turbo mode. I have a SC600 that does turbo for exactly 5 min, then a step-down. Some of my battered, tired laptop cells cannot sustain the turbo mode’s 5 min run, dropping to High anytime much earlier in, not finishing the 5min run.
I think I am getting it now. MTGs are still binned by X,000K but tend to be tighter binned with less deviation from the black body line… so the tint is “purer”.
That makes more sense. I think 4,000K would be my preference. Wonder what Solarforce uses? Probably 5,000.
There’s also a 3000K MTG-2 version available.
Yeah I might like 3,000K. I do in XML, but would want to see it in an MTG before throwing down good money.
Warm 3,000K MTG2 superflooder with good low modes might make a sweet lantern.
Very intrigued by this emitter. Going to be an interesting year.
I call first dibs. If you don't like it, I'll buy it for exactly what you paid. :)
Will do, should be here by Monday or Tuesday. But I’m out all day Tuesday with the wife having surgery so if it’s not here by Monday I won’t see it til Wednesday or so.
It will get tested either way, and have it’s picture taken for posterity. (That IS what I do, after all)
Bit down hard.
Comparing with Convoy L2, SRK (FF), Roche M170, etc. when it arrives even if they are completely different beasts.
Just couldn't resist.
MT-G2 is to XM-L as XM-L is to 3W Luxeon.
Was forced to purchase….Sigh….This is turning from a cheap replacement hobby for watches into a hobby as expensive as watches….
Comfychair, you can’t be serious! That’s massive! Oh yeah, so is the emitter….which is why I HAD to buy this light!
Reckon I’ll have to make a holster for it so I can belt carry and keep it with me all the time. Who knows, perhaps another fool will dare to tailgate me with high beams on! 
>)
Hi,
First things first…. I wish your wife’s surgery goes well!
Yes I'm serious. 'Course that's just my opinion, others may disagree with a statement that extreme, but it seems about right to me.
That only goes up to ~5A, and it was on the crappy aluminum star from Cutter, a star that has some kind of awful ceramic or fiberglass layer between the LED and the base. 6 amps, on copper (which is just recently available from IOS), would be, what, 3400? 3500? I don't think anybody has found the upper bound for where output starts to fall off or what it takes to make one go poof, so who knows. MT-G2 at 3 amps hasn't even got started yet.
:p
Thanks for the explanation tatasal.
It seems I may need to do a little more reading though I thought I'd pored over every battery/charging thread there was.
I've found my Maha C9000 incredibly useful for testing and weeding out NiMH cells. Having now moved more into Li-Ion, I guess I know what my next purchase needs to be. Off to research some threads on hobby chargers I guess.
I saw that chart and stood amazed! So, is it possible to mod the driver in the S1100/S2200 to achieve more insane numbers? I mean, even a boost to 4A gives pretty amazing results. Was it you that said this host has the emitter direct mounted to the massive thermal sink? Don’t know that a copper star would actually improve much over that as the copper star would only help pull so much away from the emitter till the aluminum became the bottleneck, right? OTOH, it’s making big improvements for the XM-L with the same limitations so who am I to say?
Might indeed be an interesting year!
No, it doesn't have a removable pill like other lights, the middle section where the side switch is is one piece with the flat section where the LED star sits. I don't know what MCPCB they use in the S2200, the one in the S1100 looked to be a custom piece. Copper, but not direct to copper under the center pad, it had a insulating layer between the solder pad and the copper base.
I put up a bunch of pics of the S1100 driver and the driver gurus said it would be simple to do a resistor mod but nobody ever got into the details of what goes where. It is doable, though.
That sounds like the way the Tiablos that I’ve been working on (destroying :laughing: are designed. I don’t know the name for it, but there’s a separate section between the head and the battery tube that is one piece and has the emitter/emitter PCB on one end, and, in the case, the driver inside that piece, and then a contact board with a spring on the other end. The whole thing is sealed up like a tank, and it’s a kind of a pain getting it open, plus the driver PCB was bigger than the openings, so the only way I could get it out was to break it in half and then pull the pieces out. I don’t know if the SF lights are like that though.
Not an over-engineered mess like that at all. The only thing I took issue with was the damn red loctite on the tiny little screws, done for no reason other than punitive disincentive to keep people from making alterations. Pics of the internals here.
Hah! Although I’m not that familiar with Tiablo’s history, my impression that it wasn’t over-engineered for functionality, but more to make it difficult (what you called “disincentive”) for people to copy their stuff. I got an upgrade kit for an ACE (vs. ACE.G) and the diameter of the inside was different than the ACE.G, i.e., they probably wanted to force customers to buy different parts for different lights. I think their website actually mentioned that they had patented some stuff that made it hard for others to copy. Loctite is like the “bane of modders”… Again, you should have seen the Tiablos. They actually Fujik’ed the driver PCB *inside *of that middle section, just to be a pain :(…
Much as I’ve been impressed with Foy’s review of the S2200’s little brother, and with the finish (for the money), of the SF lights I have, I think I’m still going to wait for the Niwalker offering.
Selfbuilt’s review on the other side of the Black Light Vostro BK-FA02 has convinced me that this is the one to get. His only criticism seems to be a narrow magnetic ring control - to me that’s an advantage after the fairly loose ring on the little RRT-01.