p60 triple nichia219 build

Just finished the l2m build and am now starting the triple nichia219. Got the pill cut, drilled and polished. Will be going into an l2T host with an l2P head/bezel and AR lens. The star pictured will not be used, I’m waiting on some better ones. Driver will be a 3.04A DrJones lupodrv.

UPDATE 7/20: I finished this build awhile ago but just got lazy about taking pictures but here is an update on the finished build.

Parts list:

- solarforce l2t

- GITD rubber boot

- Mcclicky switch

- surefire grip rings

- Solarforce b6 stainless steel

- DrJones 3A lupodrv

- triple nichia219

  • AR lens




Looks very familiar! I’m curious though, which MCPCB are you planning on using?

Also, what optic will you be using? I’ve been using the clear, tight optics on most of my triples but used a frosted with WW XP-Gs and it works great. I might try it on one of my Nichias since they’re not much for throw anyway.

Your thread was my main inspiration for the build. I have a few of the optics and will just try them all out. I will probably go for a mix of flood/throw leaning towards the flood side.

These are the boards I will be using:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?290142-fs-20mm-triple-quad-MCPCB-with-right-thermal-design-for-XP-\*-Nichia-etc-and-Carclo

I am using the triple parallel. They are not direct bonded to the base star but it is at least bonded to a thin layer of copper that increases surface area for heat transfer through the dielectric layer. Have to figure out the wiring later as the boards don’t have a hole in the center. Maybe I’ll just drill through it.

For a moment I thought they were copper, good thing they’re not. If they were I’d have to replace the boards on all my tirpples!

It looks like you should be able to drill through the middle to pass the wires through. At lease with the 3P version you don’t have to worry about bridging anything.
It would have been nice if they had put the positive pad on the other side of the board, you’ll have to be carefull not to short the led + and - wires when soldering.

Good luck!