Couldn’t you start with a copper bar and make the fins out of that, insert it the same way? Instead of all the brass sleeves and rings and washers, seems like that’s more time consuming than just cutting a copper bar down and boring it out. Then you’d have more copper mass with more heat removal properties and you could leave the base for the emitter in the bar for a one-piece built in “pill”. Cup the bottom for the driver and you’re done. Well, maybe not that easy but you probably see my point.
Can’t chuck that diameter copper bar in your drill press? No problem, drill it and tap it put a bolt in it and chuck the bolt. Let that be the driver end or emitter end, either way, when everything else is to your liking ream out the tapped hole to accept the driver/emitter whichever you choose. Just a thought.
In the meantime, I’m really loving the result of your creativity! Checking my Efest IMR10440’s to be sure they’re charged up and ready!
I’m not sure if it’s possible to machine fins as thin as these but I know for a fact that my drill press method is limited to a fat gap(~1.5mm) and that just wouldn’t look right. With this method, the spacing is controlled by the thickness of the wire spacers and though tedious is straightforward and repeatable. The cosmetic drawback is that the joint in the wire spacers is visible. When you get it your photography will expose all the defects not visible in my poor iPhone pics.
It’s gorgeous! The copper quasi fins in the tube giving accent to the copper tail cap and copper fins really ties the light together. That length is great, the porportions just right, and even the clever idea of leaving the copper slightly larger for grip, stop, accent…brilliant!
Amazing work Scott, simply amazing!
Hardly “just another 10440 light” by any means! Brilliant work of art in one-of-a-kind salute to modding.
RufusBDuck does great work, seeing this one finished makes ya want one, doesn’t it? This one is spawned through a conversation we had, and he nailed it! Of course, it’s accounted for. And I love it!
Give him a holler and see if he’s able to create one from your imagination, bet he can!
Seriously, this thing is the work off a craftsman or simply someone with too much time on there hands. I cant believe that the battery tube is only 25mm long. Good stuff and congrats on finishing the build. Another member here who is an inspiration to a lot off us. Thanks.
You have outdone yourself on this one! I love that attention to detail, making sure everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING) is as perfect as possible. Batting a 1000 with this one Scott, simply knocking every pitch out of the ballpark!
The extra work on the TIR itself, amazing! Weather sealed perfection. That gives it a truly professional look, as does the centered and perfectly tuned knurling, the copper spacers, matching head and tail and bringing it all together…Wow!
Thank You Very Very Much!
Looks like that copper star fit right in there, sweet! A 300+ lumens dynamo, with a clip!
Your O-L coined title, Master of Minuscule, is very appropriate. Might even have to give you a M³ designation (Master of Modding Minuscule)
Unbelievable. Truly excellent hand work and stunning quality.
Edit: As an aside, it’s not lost on me that it works due to a product made with Texas ingenuity, JB Weld is made in Sulphur Springs TX, Gotta love it! lol Come home to papa my precious lil jewel…
It has become a beautiful light, and so many modifications adds to the uniqueness, great work!
And now before posting your next great mod, you are going to work on your photographic skills first (please)! Such great work deserves great documentation as well, at least do it for us . Practice with different camera's (tip: modern phone camera's do a great job at close-ups, or use a close-up lens in front of the camera/phone) and lightning (tip: combine daylight with artificial light for nice clear photo's. Never settle for unsharp pictures, try them again until sharp.
Fooled you Mr Moose, that’s an inch ruler. Battery tube is closer to 60 mm though I haven’t measured it alone.
Thank you JohnnyMac. As one of those responsible for my desire to do mag mods, that means something to me
Thank you Dale. Could you tone it down? My humility is getting hammered by my vanity. Besides, my poor quality cell phone pics aren’t doing the blemishes any justice either.
Do it Ruffles, go, go, go. It’s more tiime consuming and tedious than actually difficult even though there is a large skillset involved and plenty of ways to screw up. I’ve only been modding Maglites for less than a year(a few others but not many).
Djozz, you are quite right. My problem is photobucket is not allowing me access to my account from my laptop which is the only way I have to upload from my canon 540IS which takes decent macros and has a tripod. Even with a cell phone camera I usually take 3-4 images for each shot using different lighting to try an get the best but it was 3am when I finished and I confess I just didn’t care anymore. My bad. To be honest, DBCstm will be giving this light a photoshoot that would make my best efforts with a good camera look weak so check back in a week or two when he’s had a chance to show off his talents.
The driver looks like it is based upon the standard Nanjg firmware with some residual PWM on high…
Then I did some more testing. On high, it gets hot rather fast (10C rise every 90 seconds). Drops are 2 lumens and 10K CCT per minute. Temp rises around 10C every 90 seconds. I stopped testing when it got to 60C.
In the graph, the LUX plot is actually lumens (I’ve been comparing the responses to two different light sensors, the one on the LUX channel is better). The center line of the plots are the values.
