No, it doesn't have a removable pill like other lights, the middle section where the side switch is is one piece with the flat section where the LED star sits. I don't know what MCPCB they use in the S2200, the one in the S1100 looked to be a custom piece. Copper, but not direct to copper under the center pad, it had a insulating layer between the solder pad and the copper base.
I put up a bunch of pics of the S1100 driver and the driver gurus said it would be simple to do a resistor mod but nobody ever got into the details of what goes where. It is doable, though.
That sounds like the way the Tiablos that I’ve been working on (destroying :laughing: are designed. I don’t know the name for it, but there’s a separate section between the head and the battery tube that is one piece and has the emitter/emitter PCB on one end, and, in the case, the driver inside that piece, and then a contact board with a spring on the other end. The whole thing is sealed up like a tank, and it’s a kind of a pain getting it open, plus the driver PCB was bigger than the openings, so the only way I could get it out was to break it in half and then pull the pieces out. I don’t know if the SF lights are like that though.
Not an over-engineered mess like that at all. The only thing I took issue with was the damn red loctite on the tiny little screws, done for no reason other than punitive disincentive to keep people from making alterations. Pics of the internals here.
Hah! Although I’m not that familiar with Tiablo’s history, my impression that it wasn’t over-engineered for functionality, but more to make it difficult (what you called “disincentive”) for people to copy their stuff. I got an upgrade kit for an ACE (vs. ACE.G) and the diameter of the inside was different than the ACE.G, i.e., they probably wanted to force customers to buy different parts for different lights. I think their website actually mentioned that they had patented some stuff that made it hard for others to copy. Loctite is like the “bane of modders”… Again, you should have seen the Tiablos. They actually Fujik’ed the driver PCB *inside *of that middle section, just to be a pain :(…
Much as I’ve been impressed with Foy’s review of the S2200’s little brother, and with the finish (for the money), of the SF lights I have, I think I’m still going to wait for the Niwalker offering.
Selfbuilt’s review on the other side of the Black Light Vostro BK-FA02 has convinced me that this is the one to get. His only criticism seems to be a narrow magnetic ring control - to me that’s an advantage after the fairly loose ring on the little RRT-01.
Selfbuilt’s review of the Niwalker BK-FA02 was very positive. Really wish they had hidden the strobe. Who uses strobe on a light like this anyways?!? Really.
Kind of torn between BKFA02, 7G10, and S2200, but leaning SF currently… I am a fan of both SF and Crelant brands. No experience with Niwalker, but I hear they are awesome.
Like the appearance & proportions of the SF best. Surprisingly, the Crelant claims to only have 6mm fatter body despite being 4-cell vs the 3-cell S2200.
SF seems to have better build. 7G10 cannot be locked out and has rough threads [per turboBB’s review on youtube]. That might be the deal breaker for me. This would be my most expensive light. I can’t tolerate flaws like that.
Niwalkers sound great from Selfbuilt’s review, but I expect the price to be highest and probably out of my range. Technically, all of these are out of my price range lol. Also think the Niwalkers look kinda funky. The least aesthetically pleasing of the three IMHO. Just my opinion of course.
Strobe on the Niwalker isn’t too bad - just don’t turn the magnetic ring to the left lol. I have the Supbeam K40, where the strobe is past the highest mode on the ring, and that is not so good imho.
turboBB’s has made a brief video review of the Crelant and it didn’t seem too impressive to me, with very poor threads.
If that was the video I watched, he kept saying “not bad for a first version”. The review was pretty good I thought, because he seemed pretty honest about both the bad and the good.
Yeah strobe past highest mode is even worse. Definitely.
I would prefer some kind of hidden strobe like flick the ring back n forth 3 or 4 times OSLT. There’s some control ring lights like that but I don’t own them and I’m blanking on what it was now. I’m sure someone else knows.
Woohoo! My S2200 hit my Post Office 6AM this morning! Looks like today’s the day! I was hoping as much, and have 3 cells ready to try it out. Is there any real issue with using 2 AW 2600mAh Protected cells and 1 RediLast 2600mAh Protected cell as long as their Voltage is same or very similar? 4.22 4.21 4.20 with the 4.22 and 4.20 charged on my UltraFire WF-188 and the 4.21 charged on Cottonpickers USB 700ma charger. These are measurements taken on rested cells, just read em at 9:19 and they were charged yesterday afternoon.
Edit: the one at 4.22 quit at 4.14 (the charger got moved and it broke connection, this charger is funny that way with sliders that are very coarse in movement) and I put it back on…it stopped well after the original pair started with that 4.22 showing.
I don’t have 3 of any same battery, got pairs as one was always a backup to the other. I’ve got 2 AW 2600, 1 AW 3400, 2 RediLast 2600, 2 Panasonic NCR18650PD with 4 more of the Pannys on the way.
Correction, I DO have 3! I raided my wifes P1D and found a matching AW 2600 Protected.
Edit: Sucks getting old, I would have bet money that the cell in my wifes P1D was an AW 2900mAh Protected cell. My memory is horrible. Scary, isn’t it? I use Li-ions.
Can anyone guess what I have in my hot little hands?
6 days from Hong Kong to Central Texas, must be a new record.
It’s Big!
It’s Black!
It’s Impressive!
So, what is it everyone wants to know? The MT-G2 is freakin huge! The reflector is gorgeous with a light stipple that shows the emitter very well. No artifacts, nice hot spot, good spill. Beautiful tint. Slighter whiter than a Nichia 219 but very reminiscent.
I’ve got 3 AW 2600mAh cells, fresh charged but rested. My DMM is a cheap one. I use a 1.5” long piece of 12Ga copper from Romex to take tailcap readings. Some will be disappointed with these numbers, but remember I’m not a reviewer and am not experienced with this kind of thing. But, that said, Lo shows .08 Med shows .700 and Hi shows 2.11A. So, is there a multiplier in there with 3 li-ion cells in series? Somebody please tell me what these numbers mean! Seem low to me.
I will try to get some pics this afternoon, and some beamshots tonight. Beamshots against a couple different lights but only one of known output. That would be the EDC+ Triple XPG at 720 lumens OTF.
It is a very impressive looking light, to be certain. Perfectly executed with not a single blemish on it that I have seen so far. Pics to follow.
Edit: Can a Serial # of 9 mean I actually got the 9th one? Radical!
Nice, I’m really looking forward to more of your impressions of this beast.
Assuming voltage of freshly charged cells quickly drops to 4V apiece at 2A, 3(4V)*2.11A equals ~25 Watts input power. Assuming 90% driver efficiency that means ~22.5W to the emitter. Going on that assumption and the assumption that the MT-G2 is dropping 6.3V we can assume the emitter current is 3.6A
12V*2.11A*90%÷6.3V=3.6A
The light blue line is AW 2600mAh. Courtesy of HKJ.
If they didn’t change the driver from the S1100 (I would be surprised if they did), the S2200 fully drives its MT-G2 :bigsmile:
That might be the deal breaker for me. This would be my most expensive light. I can’t tolerate flaws like that.
