Solarforce S2200 MT-G2

these are quotes from selfbuilts review on the niwalker, i think i would rather have more constant brightness if possible

also - it doesnt look like the niwalker offers any option for a lanyard - at least in the preproduction model selfbuilt got.

is the output on high on the solarforce better regulated? meaning more constant brightness on high due to the 3s setup?

if this is the case - I am going with the solarforce!

Dude why're you asking questions you already know the answer to? Just buy the thing already! :party: It may not have some of the whiz-bang gimmicks of the others, but what it does, it does correctly. And it's built like a tank. I think it's pretty clear all the alternatives have pretty serious design flaws, or QC issues. Or both.

Current at the emitter (NOT tailcap) stays at 3.28-3.31A from switch on with fresh cells to the time the battery indicator turns red.

Our 2012 Escape is the last of the old body style. They came out with the Euro version in 2013. Ours was actually made in April of 2012, does that help? I thought it had pretty decent headlights, but they are obviously more the orange color we’re used to from car headlights and not as powerful as I’d thought. (research says Hi beams are ~1100 lumens each.)

Cold nights? In Texas? Oh that’s rich! We made it to 24ºC overnight, I get chilly at that temp but don’t think that counts for what you’re talking about. I could stick it in the deep freeze at 0ºF and see what happens? With the lens sealed, it shouldn’t mist up inside. And yes, I can certainly see how that would be a problem in colder climes.

Sweet answer comfychair, and nice figures on emitter amperage! I did not know that, and now see where they get 2200 lumens from! :wink: Thanks

Uploaded video last night but Flickr bonked it. Trying again as we speak. Should be able to get that posted within the hour if all goes well. No accustomed to linking or posting video.

S2200 is in the deep freeze at 0º F (–17.8C), planning on leaving it there for 15 minutes, then we’ll see. Hope the lens doesn’t shatter when the heat from that humongo emitter kicks in! Yeah, it puts a lot of heat out front, good handwarmer if it’s cold out. :wink:

Yes, the heat projected out the front, even a foot away, is pretty remarkable. :O

oh i know i know

you win

ordering now lol.

Here’s what the S2200 looks like overriding high beams on a car. Hope this works!

http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786

Wow! That is a lot of light coming from that LED.

That’s at 3 amps? What is the max for the LED?

The datasheet for the LED says 3A. The emitter testing posted around here somewhere shows it can be pushed a bit harder.

From Match’s tests

Argh! They need to get back from their silly vacation and mail me my light!

Delayed gratification, my friend.

DBCstm,thanks for the video it really shows off the power of this light.I really like the new MTG-2 lights and even though I made one,I would buy the s2200 in a minute.In the video,the s2200 seems cooler white.Is this just the camera or is it really that way in real life?

I took the S2200 out of the deep freeze and it was COLD! The outside of the lens literally frosted over, like this:

I wiped it off and the glass was still so cold it wanted to frost back over, but I got this shot (the file name is the actual time so you can see these were just over a minute apart, that was the time spent wiping off the glass repeatedly)

Kind of hard to tell there, but the inside of the glass was clear. The shot shows the orange peel reflector inside, even though the lens was again trying to fog/frost over on the outside. Mind you, it came out of the deep freeze at something like –17.8ºC! This is not quite like the conditions would be on a cold night (or day for that matter) as the ambient air was 26.67ºC with high humidity so it’s not going to have the same effect as colder probably drier air with the heat coming from inside the light.

Hope this helps or at least gives you an idea of what to expect.

When starting a video on the G1X from Canon, the settings are set based on that initial start up. In this case, the initial settings were based on the color temperature of the car headlights which are obviously a more orange tone. In real life, the S2200 tint is gorgeous, slightly warm with good color rendition it’s a very pleasing color, not blue at all. I should have used my 5DMkII with manual settings but being as how my wife is recovering from surgery, I had no one to drive the car while I juggled the camera and light so I did it quick and dirty. Sorry about that.

So why does this light have an op reflector if its meant to be a thrower?

Who said it was meant to be a thrower? Do you really think that's likely to happen, based on a comparison of the die sizes between XML & MTG2, especially with both of them in the same size reflector?

Why not use the reflector that maximizes the strengths of the particular emitter? I think that's what they did with this one. And despite that, it looks like it still throws pretty damn well, it's just not a white laser beam so of course it will get tarred with the 'flooder!' pejorative from people who.. well, anyway.

I would say this is a new category of lights (of which I like) where you use a big LED fro high lumens, in an OP lens, in a big reflector for substantial throw. Sort of a hybrid of both worlds.

The TN31 and S1100 may throw further than the S2200 but I like lights that throw a biga$$ hotspot.

In a given light an XP-G2 on copper at 3A outthrows an XM-L on copper driven at 4A. In larger size lights (>60mm bezel) I’ll take the latter 7 out of 10 times. Same idea applies with XM-L versus MT-G2. I love specialized throwers but almost every time I’ll gladly sacrifice some candela for improved general utility.

That’s good enuff for me. You answered my question fully. And I see your point. Thank you sir.