My stock BTU tested at 2880 at 30sec on turbo, 2160 on high, 928 medium, 68 low.
Now with xml2’s on copper - 3670 at sec on turbo, 2520 high, 1025 medium, 75 low.
So even high is very respectable. I never tested throw on different levels, but I’d be willing to bet its still 100k or more on high.
And both tests done with 3400mah protected Keeppowers. And this is the BTU driver.
I think these are ones I used on one Shocker - really stiffens them up if your not into the soft stock ones. IOS has pretty much the same ones, believe sold as the "A" size. I got them both - went nuts buying any/all springs... If you copper braid the springs though, not sure you really need them.
Joe - think I read recently the BTU stock driver is not using PWM's at all, but regulated in all modes. The DRY driver does use PWM, and I think poorly -- read this in a BTU thread, not sure where now...
For throw - I’ve done 5m, 10m, 15m, & 25m tests. All about the same results - about 125k stock, 181K with the XML2’s and UCL lens. I have not tried it just high yet though. But a stock high with 2160 lumens it still should be respectable.
So many questions
Springs on the holder are fine, I added copper braid, but didn’t help much.
I didn’t detect any PWM on the BTU driver (which is now dead), On the DRY driver I cannot see it, but I can hear it in all modes (even Turbo) if I point the light at a black piece of paper. Seriously, sheer the intensity of the light makes a noise when it hits a dark piece of paper. Crazy bright.
My particular unit tests relatively low, and I think there may be something wrong with my light. Everyone else seems to have no problems, so it may be a one-off.
There have been a lot of BTUs sold today. I think they will be gone by tomorrow.
Truthfully, I don’t know. I’ve tried several other lights that throw over 100k at 1m, and everyone reads off, many way off. SR90, TN31, tn31mb, Deerelight, etc. If I light is a serious thrower, I just start them at 5m. My TN31mb (426k) and SR90 w/ sbt70 (325k), even reads off a little at 5m. But not too far off. At 10m the read proper. And by proper I mean the same consistant numbers from 10m - 100m.
From all my testing, this is the way I see it as best minimum testing distances -
0-50k - 1m test
50-100k - 3m test
100-200k - 5m test
200k & up - 10m test.
Bare emitters reflowed onto 20mm SinkPAD's - I do it in a frying pan , works pretty well, did dozens, check temp with a temp meter. They were XM-L2 U2's 1A or 1C's, forgot which. IlluminationSupply is a great source for the 1C's, but they might have been from Mouser.
Tom E, they were XM-L U2 1C from IS. A great thrower tint, IMO. I did virtually the same mod.
It’s not hard to do, but I would not recommend it be your first mod. Try something smaller first.
Don’t you know, flashlights are the new precious metals. Everyone buys up flashlights when things get tough.
OK, All I can offer you is free medicare and all the maple syrup you can eat. And bacon, lots of bacon. J)