Sorry ohaya, totally crossed up my wires there. The pic of the driver looked a lot like a TR-3T6.
I totally agree now, you ordered an STL-V6, you should get one. It is even in the description.
I shut up now. 
the main difference is the emitter mounting you mentioned elsewhere, on the stl v6 the emitter is mounted on sn alu disk held down with two screws, not a screw in brass pill.
I got my STL-V6 from Wallbuys today (along with some other stuff from them)
Driver circuit is not as pictures in OP.
Group changing works…
Tail cap reading is 1,37 with two NCR18650B @ 3,97V.
I will get back to it later, or tomorrow. But so far, cant complain on that…
It is a Chinese light we are talking about….
RaceR86,
Thanks for that info, including the tailcap reading! That kind of re-confirms that the driver in the STL-V6 I got is wrong, or, at least different.
Cherry requested a video, which I supplied to them, and she said that they are now checking with their supplier.
Since you got a “correctly” working one, I think that they’ll come back and say that something’s messed up with mine :)…
BTW, I had mentioned earlier, that this light supposedly works with a C8 body, but the C8s that I’ve tried, the body is smaller diameter where it would screw into the head. Anyone know if it’s only specific C8s that are suppose to work?
Later,
Jim
It was from the 1st instant kill. I think it was like $18+?
RaceR86,
BTW, do you happen to have lux meter? If so, have you measured lux for the STL-V6 that you got?
I mentioned earlier that I was getting about 1500 lux @ 4.3 meters, and also found this:
In the OP of that thread, “2100” said:
so I am curious what I might get when Wallbuys figures out what’s going on with my STL-V6 :)…
For the record, I wanted to record how this situation is apparently ending up.
Basically Wallbuys has admitted that the STL-V6 that I have does not have mode groups, and, actually, they are saying that ALL of the FandyFire STL-V6s that they have or get from their “supplier” don’t have mode groups. They also have said that all of the drivers in all of the STL-V6s that they shipped or ship have the same driver.
This is despite my referencing the various posts in this thread indicating that some people got STL-V6s from Wallbuys with mode group, and, more importantly better lux performance, and, also with the apparently “correct” driver.
So, basically, I am now stuck with a FandyFire STL-V6 that doesn’t appear to be, or function like, a FandyFire STL-V6. You know the old saying about “If it looks like a duck, etc….” :(.
As I mentioned to them in my email to them, I now understand the frustration that some others have described trying to deal with Wallbuys.
Later,
Jim
I have a KD C8 body screwed into my FF STL-v6 now. Works fine.
These budget lights change over time - just got in new T08's from FT, and noticed they really cleaned up the surface machining marks - it was one of the worst looking budget lights in terms of quailty machining of the body, now it looks upscale, but measured amps is consistently lower - 2 new ones measure 1.95A at the tail switch, and 2 older ones measure 2.1A at the tail switch, and resulting measured lumens is like 10% lower.
Also bought a pair of C10-S's from Manafont in the same order - one has a EZ900 XR-E, the other had a EZ1000. One was clean, the other was niked up pretty good - I wouldn't say used/returned, just carelessly handled in the factory most likely. Of course the C10's resulting lumens and throw don't match because of the emitters -- strange, lottery I guess.
Did you pay via PayPal? Surely you’d just pursue a claim that way.
In simple terms you were sold and paid for ‘x’, however they supplied ‘y’.
As it’s not what you paid for or wanted then it’s a simple case of full refund (on the basis of had you known the truth you’d have never purchased it in the first place). If they want the light back - sure - but at their cost as it was their f*ck up.
Hi,
Yes, “lottery”, just like the HD2010s :(…
FYI, it looks like Wallbuys has changed their web page for the STL-V6, so now it doesn’t say anything about mode groups:
The strange thing is that, almost at the same time, FastTech has also changed the description for the STL-V6 on their own website:
I know that I had checked out the FastTech page a day or so ago, when I trying to figure out what was going on with the STL-V6 that I got from Wallbuys, and at the time, they mentioned to groups of modes :(.
That is SO weird :(!!
Edit: I wonder if these guys are talking to each other all the time?
Good to hear that. T08’s have always had poor machining, until they introduced the Asgard. I think they switched or forced the suppliers to clean up the host before finishing. I would not have bought an Asgard if it had the low quality finish of my T08. As soon as JM previewed it and the finish looked good, trigger was pulled.
Knowing that the T08 itself is also improved, I’ll consider it for host use in the future too.
Sorry for the Off-topic talk… and to maybe put a damper on you high expectations Relic38.
Different people might have different expectations or preferences? Or maybe gotten different quality lights…
Still, ill quite Foy from his preview
RaceR86, I have my Asgard, and compared to my FT T08, it is much better. I do not have any of the nicks or scratches. The only area where things were not up to expectations were the lens and reflector. Bother were very dusty. I cleaned the lens, but no idea how to clean the reflector without ruining it.
Right, way off topic. Enough about the T08/Asgard. 
Ahh… Thanks for the info Relic38…. Foy might have been extra unlucky then… Back to topic…
_
On on many Chinese lights, things changes all the time.
I have seen it a bunch of times. People can buy the same product one the same sale, the same day, with differences… Its always a lottery…
If people were to nitpick. You could just visit a shop like Kaidomain as an example, buy 10 lights, and file paypal claims on all of them.
Im sure the description is off with 1-5 things on close to every flashlight… 
Runtime, lumens, current being the typical things that never adds up….
There are simple solutions to avoid grievance…
1. Only buy from the most serious stores that mostly does not cell the typical Chinese low budget lights (Ultrafire, Fandyfire, Trustfire etc etc…)
(Intl-outdoor, Illumination supply etc etc…)
2. Buy from a good store that sells cheap ass brand lights, and will actually bother with minor complaints in order to make their customers as happy and loyal as possible.
(Fasttech)
Common for those stores, higher prices than what you will find at Wallbuys sale…
Or you could buy cheap-ass “brand lights” that are known for often getting changes, at cheap-ass prices, from cheap-ass stores.
Then, when youre disappointed by minor stuff, go through the hassle with customer support, paypal clam etc… In order to maybe become partially happy…
In many cases, not worth the time…
My advise, if you are a type of guy who have high demands, and nitpicks. Choose products and stores more consciously…
Ohoya, based on tail-cap reading your light seems to have healthy input to the driver circuit. Maybe better than a typical stock STL-V6.
Its higher than my light (1,33A) with fresh batteries, which seems to have the driver that you seem to consider to be the original one (?). Im getting around 2,73-2,8amp to the emitter depending on the batteries, just measured with 3 different sets that was fully charged.
One funny thing… I took pictures of the driver, and then it struck me” HEY, I HAVE NOT SEEN THIS DRIVER BEFORE?!”
It was the same driver as I found in the TR-3T6 that I got from Wallbuys.
I played with it in this thread.
Here are some pictures of the driver from the STL-V6 that I got. Ordered 18. May.
So the modegroup does change if the two golden rings get shorted?
Could you please look up with what the inner ring is connected on the other side?
Would be nice to see some driver pictures from ohaya
I have a wallbuys v6 on the way too
Seems to be connected to right leg of the 202 resistor. (the little one on the lower part of the circuit board in the shot above)
ohaya - maybe FT is following this thread and decided to test their STL-V6 because they know it's all from the same vendor... 
Agree, it's weird, but not surprising when playing the Chinese lottery. Just hope the retailers are learning to put pressure on their vendors to give them a heads-up when things change. Driver changes that effect advertised features is a bad thing, but by my own experience, FT isn't much better - been trying for weeks to get them to change a driver advertised as 5 modes and is actually 3 modes, they verified this - still it's listed as 5 modes.
RaceR86 - agree, the listings KD has are ridiculously lacking info, dunno how anyone can buy from them without knowing any details, and if what is listed is accurate. But DX and Manafont do the same thing...
Hi,
I posted a picture of the spring-side of the driver, and I can post a pick of the emitter side, but have been avoiding removing the actual driver from the pill, since it’s soldered-in, and I’m still awaiting and trying to see what Wallbuys will do with this situation.
Their “solution” thus far has been to change their website to eliminate the now-non-existent feature (the mode groups), but I have to remind that that change to their website was only in the last day or so, post-fact :(… Not the best way to do business, IMO…
Tom,
I just remembered something that I had forgotten about: When I was trying to figure out the modes and mode changing, I had noticed that FT also carried the same FandyFire STL-V6, so I posted a message on the FT forums:
https://www.fasttech.com/forums/1107600/t/1004260/cant-get-to-3-mode-group-and-loose-lens
So, it’s possible that whoever monitors their forums saw the post, and then tested the lights they had, and found that they don’t have mode groups, and then they decided to change their website. This is actually more discouraging, because like you indicated, all these lights are probably from the same vendor, so probably the “new” STL-V6s are non-mode-group, for every seller. So, unless you get lucky, like RaceR86, apparently, you get the “new” STL-V6 instead of the original.
Very similar to the HD2010 situation with the EAST-092 driver vs. the EAST-092B drivers?