I think it’s driver, but not capacitors, forget about them it’s something else…
And good luck finding a driver for 12xT6, haven’t seen one yet…
The LEDs in the head might all be wired in some type of series-parallel configuration or they might all be in series. It’s possible the wire came off one of the LEDs in the head and the driver can’t power any of them any more.
I’ve had several lights that got hot enough to have a lead slip off due to a bad solder joint. You might want to make sure all the wires are still hooked up to all of the LEDs.
Haven’t seen any replacement drivers around so far :(. edit - acutally, there’s this - http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021221
From what I can tell the LEDs are in two lots of six.
All still soldered correctly. Checked and there’s no voltage at either of the positives that connect to the LEDs.
Any ideas how to check the other components on the board?
The seller has asked I:
>>please have a try with the batteries without protected.
have a try with 18650 batteries.<<
I do have some unprotected 18650s somewhere, so will try and dig them out, but if it’s putting out 16.x volts, this shouldn’t be an issue, yes?
I really wouldn’t want to put four unprotected cells in series tbh, have you tried it with the reflector off? There’s definitely a short somewhere to get a flash when you linked out the tailcap, so its a case of tracking that short down. reflector is a distinct possibility.
Cheers for the thoughts.
Tried with the reflector off when I was checking to see if voltage was getting to the LEDs and nothing.
Seller wants me to return cap and head - I’ve pointed out it should be the driver at fault and would prefer just to return that.
Also, I tried ordering a replacement from Kaidomain and their checkout says:
>>Checkout was unsuccessful. Please try again or contact us for assistance.
Account is restricted<<
I’ve clicked the veryify email and signed in - anything else I’m missing?
using unprotected li ion battery on series is very dangerous isn’t?like having a grenade that ready to blow?sorry if i was wrong 
Especially on something that might have a short, I suspect!
Kaidomain sent an email saying their payment system was working again.
I’ve found a UK supplier of another one and because I’m foolish, bought that (I’m a tad broke at the moment, this may be why!) - I did have plans to use these with a diffuser for ebay pictures in my unit with no power, so would need two anyway (I keep telling myself 
).
So will probably just send cap and head back as requested.
Back on this.
Unfortunately was very busy time at the time, so it never got sent back.
Think I’ll just try and fix it up and get the mods described in the review thread done at the same time.
I’ve now got a better multimeter (not amazing, just a Vichy VC99).
This does show the larger capacitor as about correct, but the smaller one as not working.
I don’t know if it’s happened since, but the larger capacitor has actually had one leg come off the circuit board - possible it was just that.
Am I the only one that sees the driver is completely blown out and burned where the caps & toriod are soldered to the board? See the big black craters? I know this is an old post but you need a new driver lol.
I think that’s just the solder blobs that look a bit dark because of shadowy lighting and lots of flux residue. The only possible problem I see is the negative (upper) lead of the right most capacitor looks like it is not soldered properly to the board.
Yea- you’re spot on with that.
Since found that’s the case with the loose one, but hadn’t noticed when I took the picture - though the smaller capacitor doesn’t seem to be working properly too.
Unfortunately a) I’m not that great with fiddly soldering and b) not sure where my soldering stuff is.
I did try doing reattaching by heating up a screw and using that, but not surprisingly, that didn’t work (almost did).
Caretaker bloke at my work units offered to lend me his soldering iron - the tip of which was a ground cold chisel with a 5mm square flat end or so!
Got a couple of other things that could do with somework, so might see if I can find someone local that can do it for a not-silly amount.
(Anyone in West Yorks, UK fancy earning some beer money? )
Maybe you can buy/order a small butan soldering lighter. I was once on holiday and needed to solder something, so I bought one. It is a jet flame lighter, you can screw a metal soldering tip on.
Heats up quickly and has a fine tip…was cheap too
I’ve got a bit knackered one of those SOMEWHERE too.
I’ve got basically most of my life haphazardly thrown in the back of my business unit and haven’t had chance to organise it.
Bit broke and so prefer not to spend money on stuff I’ve already got.
That and my fine soldering is far from amazing - I fear I’ll end up with a driver-sized mush of solder if I try!
Don’t go with Butane its a real pita. Mine will lose its butane charge every few weeks then I have to refill it every time I need it. For the small stuff I use an electric 12 watt Weller soldering iron/pencil.
Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you?
I’m in Keighley.
And yes - my butane one was fine when first got it, but now leaks. Partly why it’s stuck away somewhere. Also, doesn’t turn off (presumably the leak) so I have to blow it out.
I can’t post a picture now but I’m pretty sure you will need a driver. If you see black the board is burned & if you scrape it there you will find a crater under the burned/ black stuff. I know as I have done this. I just finished replacing 11 caps on a software defined radio main board due to this same issue.
My 0.02
Aaron.
That’s what I thought initially, but not so sure now.
Which bits specifically were you thinking looked burnt.
I just got some higher res pics, here:
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver1.jpg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver2.jpg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver3.jpg
However, looking at those, think my lighting might be hiding the flux a bit.
Does look like could be some damage there.