Well I’m gonna tell you guys right now. Get you one of these before they are gone. There is no need to mod this baby unless you want to. It’s one bad ass flashlight. It will out do the TK70.
hey ilf, does this shocker have more flood and spill than your tk75? from your pictures, it seems like it.
but from other members pictures, the tk75 has more flood.
Well I can only answer to what my camera sees. Looking at them eye to eye it looks to be close.
TK75
BTU Shocker
The pictures shows the BTU Shocker to have more spill. IT’s brigher and putting out more lumens so it makes sense to me.
On the new Shockers being shipped, the AR lens now puts it as a clear winner in output over the TK75: flood, lumens, throw by far, etc. If I was backpacking though, the TK75 would be a winner for it's weight - also for use, quality and convenient side switch.
Sorry for bothering, but what do you mean by new Shockers? new stock, or generally about the updated with AR lens which they already got like 2 months on sale? sorry i’m a bit confused.
Recently sold lights, I purchased/received mine @ beginning of may and that’s when Ric first got the AR lens.
Ok, you guys are alot of help. Which driver should I order? Is one really that much better than the other? Do some batteries work better than others with either of these drivers?
Maybe they need to stop giving idots like me choices.
dry driver:
direct drive on high a bit more ‘dangerous’ than the btu driver - produces more output since its direct drive but will produce a lot of heat… heat is normally bad, but since the btu is so huge it handles the heat very well… will produce more lumens, but as the voltage drops of the batteries, so will the output… good for a “wow” mode… should pull 4.5-5 amps on high with fresh batteries - if you use this driver i would use good quality protected cells, and don’t use IMR or low resistance high discharge cells, or you could fry an emitter
-pwm on low modes
btu driver:
all modes current regulated a bit safer and more linear output (3.8amps on turbo, with stepdown) - again - i would only use good quality protected cells… you could use pretty much any type of battery here as long as the cells are of good quality and the same capacity/make/age
my preference would be the btu driver personally as it makes the light more practical and still having a “turbo” wow mode…
would you be able to tell the difference in output between the dry driver on turbo and btu driver on turbo? probably only side by side… were probably talking the difference between 3000 OTF lumens and maybe 3500 which in my opinion is really negligible
Hmmm where i can find the exact models of both drivers, and will the DRY driver be great if you make some cooling mod on it?
Is that even possible?
Thanks.
http://www.fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=446 - both of them can be bought here
upgrading the led stars to sink pads and perhaps adding more mass or changing the disc they are mounted on to copper would help with heat transfer… as might as well upgrade the leds to xml2 while you are at it and high current wires
i think tom e is working on a similar setup now
Thanks for your help.
What i mean was a site who sell this drivers, to check specs, build quality and such 
This way i only see the option to pick one of them, but cant see how are they build.
Thanks brother. That’s kinda what I was looking for. Problem is, I still can’t decide which one I want. I’m such a dork.lol
Got a Shocker sitting at home, waiting - on a mini vaca now. It's a BTU driver, planning on the resistor mod to crank of the amps (published already here on BLF), 20 gauge wires, XM-L2 on copper stars, copper braid all springs, etc. Hoping to see 4,000 lumens and 200 kcd out of it, or really close. This is close to the ultimate setup for this light because of the BTU driver and getting higher amps out of it.
very cool!
i agree - its the ultimate light… max lumens… very very high throw… great heatsinking…. and it can serve as beating stick because its huge
Looks like the $99 deal is over. It’s now listed at $120.
My monthly commission cheque goes in tonight -is the only way I can buy stuff with out the wife catching on to how much I spend
Hopefully there will be another sale down the track.
Guys,
I can personally tell you even at $120 shipped the BTU is still a steal. I just got done playing with mine again outside. Throw and spill like I have never ever seen before on any other LED light I have owned. And yes I have owned a TK70. The TK70 won’t touch the BTU I got.
I picked up a 3 lb dumbbell tonight to get an idea of what it would be like to carry this sucker. hehe
Maybe try PM’ing RIC-CN?
I don’t know if the deal ended, but I had a problem ordering last night, and was getting a popup, and PM’ed him, and he responded after “fixing” the problem. I’m not sure what he did.
This actually looks quite obtainable. Let’s look at the math:
Stock BTU is 3000 lumens, 135kcd. This equals 45 candela for every lumen.
Modded BTU with increased amps and lower resistance estimate is 4000 lumens, 200kcd. This equals 50 candela for every lumen.
What does this mean? Well, since there’s no actual change in shape between XML and XML2, if it did put out 4000 lumens, it theoretically would have roughly around 180kcd. Unless there’s some way you could change the ratio of throw to total output (by dedoming), to achieve 200kcd you would have to increase the lumens to 4444.
These are just rough calculations based on my calculated estimates. But if you could increase the amps to the LEDs I don’t see why it’s not possible, but 200kcd would require high current! Definitely over 4.5amps each emitter.