Flomotion, how is the beam with that X8 clone? All flood I am assuming? More throw than an XML P60?
The IOS 9A driver does 5 amps from two 18650, and an honest-to-god 9A from three. I was not expecting that. :O
So……how bright at 9 amps?
The beam is somewhat floody with a very large hotspot. On mine there is a slight ring around the hotspot, but only noticeable when white wall hunting. Outdoors, this is a very nice flood light, that can throw pretty god too. I didn’t measure throw yet though.
Flomotion has a build thread somewhere. I Probably should have answered this question there. 
Finally, 9 amps (4000 lm?), I demand that! What 3x18650 (3 x26650) single emitter host fits that driver?
Trustfire TR-1200, relevant info starts here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18955#comment-411218
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Tailcap numbers for the IOS 9A driver
2x 18650
low .55A
mid 1.95A
high 4.85A
3x 18650
low 1.06A
mid 3.05A
high 6.57A
Driver makes a pretty wicked squeeeeeee on mid & low with every battery config I've thrown at it (including CR123s).
So in simple terms, the emitter is driven to around 100W on 3 cells? :bigsmile: :bigsmile:
Its closer to 80 watts at the tailcap……so less than that at the emitter
Even if the cells sagged to 4V each at turn-on, that would still be 12V * 9A at the tailcap = 108W before driver losses to the emitter. Either way, this is beginning to sound very interesting!
Tailcap is not 9 amps though :bigsmile:
Sorry, I saw this and assumed 108W at the tail… now I see the other posts. Thanks!:bigsmile:
This build is very dependent on the cells that are used, the better the cells, the better the light runs. Now the host is a cheapie, but does have more mass and size in the pill area than the “real” Trustfire X8. I real X8 pill module is not big enough for the DRY driver, so that option is out. The DRY will take 3 cells (don’t try it, will fry the emitter), and I noticed that people were posting using 3 cells on the IOS driver, so the DRY ought to be similar on three cells in series (definitely a NO, NO). I have not done that(Good Thing). Thanks for having my back relic, on this, he is much better at posting than I, but we did get similar results on the same build. I was really amazed at the build, the idea being, the the MT-G2 is very floody by nature, so I wanted a deep reflector and fairly narrow beam to contain the floodiness, and the idea worked. There is still plenty of spill in this built, but the hotspot is well contained: but quite large. There does seem to be some interesting chromatics in this build, variations of tints of yellow and white, but rather interesting than annoying. Relic can do better on the measurements of throw, but I was impressed at the throw for just 2 cells. The torch is gobbling every electron you give it, so like relic indicates: it is a very small light pumping Boo Coo amps, but seems to handle the thermals, and the MT is demanding everything from the cells, so it does get warm quickly. With the final drive being Turbo or DD, I would guess that counting efficiency and points of resistance, this is about as much light as one could expect from a torch this size at the present without things starting to go into thermal/electric failure…just my view, relic is free to add his view…, remember this is a bottom of the barrel — budget build, for this powerful of a light…at this time…
A word of caution. Do NOT use the DRY driver to drive one MT-G2 from three cells in series. The emitter will die a quick death. Quick, as in you will not get a chance to turn it off.
The IO driver is a buck driver, so it will convert the power from a 12V/1.5A level down to 6V/3A level (halves the voltage, doubles the current) in order to keep the current in check.
The other points you make are in line with my findings so far. I’m charging my Sanyo cells right now and will test output again for documenting purposes.
For about $45, this is the lowest cost and simplest MT-G2 mod I’ve seen yet. The ZY-T08 mod was more expensive (could have used a DRY driver there). It was also more work, however if it had actually worked from a 2P configuration, it would have been easy.
That is what I thought, thanks for having my back, again, relic…
OK, here are some results using fresh Sanyo ZTs charged to 4.3V
Drive current: 4.7A
Total output: 2238lm at start, 2045lm after 30 seconds (mostly battery sag, power supply shows much ‘sturdier’ output)
Throw: 19.2kcd after 30s
So it’s not bad. Would like to have a regulated boost driver to keep them lumens going steady, but you would need IMR cells for that (battery current would go over 2C as the cell drain).
You can get away with regular 2600mAh+ cells with this setup.
Pretty impressive, but like you say, it is an electron hog, and eats batteries quickly. I was quite happy with the build, do you think using the DRY in another build going 2S2P would work? Thanks again…
2S2P would work, however it might push over 5A. If you have a Noctigon and good heatsinking it should be OK. There are a lot of variables, so it is not for sure. If resistance is very low, it could be bad news. It would make for a lot better run times 
Direct drive off 2S 18650 gives 5A or a little less with conventional unprotected cells, none of that crazy INR stuff. But, high current means a higher Vf and more voltage sag and before not too long at all the voltage will fall below the Vf and the current & light output will start falling off.
My build with the 9A driver does right around that same 5A when run from two cells, the driver isn't regulating that at all, it's essentially direct drive since the driver wants to deliver more amps than the Vf-versus-input-voltage will allow. Adding the third cell gives it the headroom it needs to do proper regulation - higher voltage allows more current to flow. 2S2P will help reduce the amount of sag, but that just slightly prolongs the inevitable, cell voltage will still limit current long before the cells are close to being flat.
Drove one MG-T2 with 12 direct connected AMC7135’s in a DST. Gave 4 amps at the tail. Only ran for 7 to 10 minutes before I called it a night. Seemed to work fine with no issues noted.
EDIT: 350mA rated 7135’s. Used 2S NCR18650A’s charged to 8.4v combined.
EDIT2: Recounted, I had 14 7135’s. So current at the tail was about 86% of rated. I rushed the light back together. So discrepancy may be due to a high resistance point in one of the many junctions that the electricity has to cross in the DST. I’ll try to investigate this weekend.
EDIT3: Been using the above cells direct drive in the same light and getting the same current. So batteries (and probably resistance in the various connection points in the light) appear to be the cause of the lower than rated current readings.
Check at the emitter, both versions I built did only half the rated current at the LED while showing normal numbers at the tailcap, still have yet to see anyone else say they've checked the output current on a MTG2/7135 combo. One driver was a single mode only with the Vdd taken from between the two cells, other one has a normal MCU with the resistor/zener mod to drop the voltage to 'safe' levels.