Yes - 1 lux at 1 meter is 1 candela, technically, we should always quote candela units. kcd is short for 1,000 candela. when someone says lux, you should always assume they are just reading it off the meter, while candela puts it in perspective to a distance which has a standard definition that can be compared and rated at.
That result is again strange - normally a KK ICR should do better than a TF 5000, but the KK INR's are higher resistance than KK ICR's. I got a couple of each, though regretted buying the INR's -- didn't learn about the difference until after I bought them.
I agree, it’s strange, but this is the same meter that I used in that other thread with the same HD2010 (although I was using the Efest IMR with the earlier test). I’ve been using the HD2010 as a kind of “benchmark”, since the lux readings for an HD2010 with EAST-092 seems to be fairly well-known.
The distance is, I think, accurate, as I’ve measured it several times.
The only other difference from the earlier testing is that I’m now testing in a slightly different “environment”, so that I could get the new distance.
Earlier, I had the meter attached to the front of our fridge, but we got a new SS fridge last week, so now it’s mounted on the front of the SS fridge (rather than a white one).
Could the meter battery be low and would that cause lower lux readings? The meter’s still fairly new, and I haven’t really used it much though :(…
Puzzling…
Edit: Tom E, I found the earlier thread/post:
In that, you mentioned:
and it appears that I am getting 40Klux/Kcd at 1m with the HD2010 at ~4.22 amps?
If that’s correct, then it appears that the Shocker lux I measured should be “correct”?
Edit 2: Did you already mod the HD2010 so that you got the 57Kcd?
That’s a good question. With the light on, looking at the lens from the “side”, there is a bluish tint, but the lens is kind of really dirty. I haven’t tried to clean it yet.
Can I ask the following: Has anyone (other than me) gotten a BTU Shocker (with the BTU driver) that is producing less than the 130Klux that others have mentioned?
Edit: When I removed the bezel ring and lens, I noticed that the diameter of the lens is quite a lot smaller than ID of the bezel ring. Is that “normal” for a Shocker?
Actually, I’m (again) not sure if it is AR or not. When I had the lens off, I noticed that the reflection of lights (some new CREE lights) was definitely purplish:
Also, per the link I posted to the’s review, he was only getting ~100Klux, so I’m not sure why his (apparently) and mine are at 100Klux, whereas others reporting ~130Klux. Again, this is with the BTU driver… wondering if the 130Klux is because of the DRY driver?
Mine shipped via Fedex (was surprised), and took only about 5 days shipping, I think, to the east coast U.S.
Edit:
P.S. Suggestions for cleaning the lens? Also the front/flat part of the reflector has some marks, because of the messed up O-ring placement originally. Can I just wipe that front/flat part of the reflector safely?
For the HD2010 I recently measured, it's totally stock and got 57 kcd, but it may be a really good one. Your HD2010 readings may be ok, 40's is more typical, and why the KK did lower than the TF 5000 could be because of the extremely high amps you are getting that's generating heat sag, resulting in lower readings. Generally I stay away from 26650 batteries in a EAST-092 driver light.
=the='s Shocker is a T6 3C version, so it will under perform compared to a U2 CW light, so his measurements are ok.
So now that you say that, I’m wondering if maybe the reason for the 100Klux I’m getting is that the one I got may have T6s (I ordered CW on the Shocker I got)? Here’s what my order details says on the FF site:
Is there a way to visually tell what the emitter is on mine?
Only by the tint, can you tell. You should be able to see the difference compared to a 1A - not the direct center spot because that's super bright, but in the spill should be easy to tell.