Hi,
Can I ask the following: Has anyone (other than me) gotten a BTU Shocker (with the BTU driver) that is producing less than the 130Klux that others have mentioned?
AFAIK the lens can hold off around 100-150 lumens max. which is very hard to notice.
BTW Ric will send you the replacement lens for free if you got older model, relax…
IMO you got some problems with the meter - or maybe driver problem….lens cant make big difference.
Another test, this time, without the lens.
The same distance, 21.5 feet, and got 107361 lux.
Jim
Edit: When I removed the bezel ring and lens, I noticed that the diameter of the lens is quite a lot smaller than ID of the bezel ring. Is that “normal” for a Shocker?
Sorry, but i still dont have my Shocker, i ordered last night.
I’m answering this questions based on the info i read from Shocker owners and i’m confident to say its correct, but about bezel ring etc i’m not sure.
Maybe this will help?
Hi,
BTW, in this review:
it showed in the graph in the review that lux was less than 100K?
Also, the lens on mine, tint-wise, looks like the one in the video above, i.e., pretty much clear. I’ve PM’ed RIC.
Yes, the Shocker in the video is old revision, without AR lens.
Ask Ric to send you free replacement lens, i hope mine comes with AR……or i will be pissed, because all versions since may, should come with AR lens.
How long did it take for yours shipping btw?
Hi,
Actually, I’m (again) not sure if it is AR or not. When I had the lens off, I noticed that the reflection of lights (some new CREE lights) was definitely purplish:
Also, per the link I posted to the’s review, he was only getting ~100Klux, so I’m not sure why his (apparently) and mine are at 100Klux, whereas others reporting ~130Klux. Again, this is with the BTU driver… wondering if the 130Klux is because of the DRY driver?
Mine shipped via Fedex (was surprised), and took only about 5 days shipping, I think, to the east coast U.S.
Edit:
P.S. Suggestions for cleaning the lens? Also the front/flat part of the reflector has some marks, because of the messed up O-ring placement originally. Can I just wipe that front/flat part of the reflector safely?
clear the lens with water only for now, and soft clot which does not leave marks.
Then shine a light into the lens from different angles and see if the glow appears.
No, Dry driver is not the reason i think.
I think you can wipe it out, safely, just be gentle.
I’ll give the lens wash a try.
Do you have a lux meter? If so, can you post your measurements when your Shocker arrives?
Thanks,
Jim
For the HD2010 I recently measured, it's totally stock and got 57 kcd, but it may be a really good one. Your HD2010 readings may be ok, 40's is more typical, and why the KK did lower than the TF 5000 could be because of the extremely high amps you are getting that's generating heat sag, resulting in lower readings. Generally I stay away from 26650 batteries in a EAST-092 driver light.
=the='s Shocker is a T6 3C version, so it will under perform compared to a U2 CW light, so his measurements are ok.
So now that you say that, I’m wondering if maybe the reason for the 100Klux I’m getting is that the one I got may have T6s (I ordered CW on the Shocker I got)? Here’s what my order details says on the FF site:
Is there a way to visually tell what the emitter is on mine?
Only by the tint, can you tell. You should be able to see the difference compared to a 1A - not the direct center spot because that's super bright, but in the spill should be easy to tell.
Right, and without AR lens, but also with old "under reading" meter.
My new UT381 shows about 105kcd for NW (with replacement AR lens though) and 135kcd for CW (new, AR lens).
Hi,
Thanks.
So, is there a way to visually distinguish a T6 vs. U2 emitter? Just wondering…
Yes, mine is an underperforming BTU. It is the only light I have that consistently measures low. All of my other lights seem to measure up to expectations.
I cannot recall the original numbers, but here are the results after modding, XM-L2 U2 on copper Sinkpads, AR lens, driven with DRY driver from power supply, 4.6A, after 30s.
3450lm, 156kcd
OK, so that’s not bad, but I think it’s under what others have gotten from their modded BTU Shockers.
relic - do you recall a tailcap measurment on that Shocker? 4.6A on a power supply is one thing... I measure by simply jumping across the switch. Interesting you are getting #'s that low - all my Shocker mods though have 20 gauge wires, and mostly now, I'm copper braiding the carrier springs. Not sure of the effects though because didn't test them individually.
No there isn't.
My guess would be that your light slightly under performs at maybe 120kcd level and meter under reads the rest(?)
Has anyone tried how much proper reflector seating & position affects the throw in a Shocker? Just another guess..
My results with XM-L2 T6 3C on copper SinkPADs, AR lens & better wires were just below 3000lm & about 152kcd (both after 30s). Which is very impressive for a NW light, I must add.
Well from what I've been seeing, with the centering plastics they use, it's hard to deviate much. Also, they really crank down the reflector - phillips head screw is usually pretty tight in there. Only thing I notice in the last one was the emitters got turned so much, one overlapped the hole the wires go through, but didn't seem to effect the output.
125 kcd was more typical prior to the AR lens, I believe.
:~ I wonder if all the ones in the latest batch are like mine? RIC hasn’t been on for a few days…