Actually, I’m (again) not sure if it is AR or not. When I had the lens off, I noticed that the reflection of lights (some new CREE lights) was definitely purplish:
Also, per the link I posted to the’s review, he was only getting ~100Klux, so I’m not sure why his (apparently) and mine are at 100Klux, whereas others reporting ~130Klux. Again, this is with the BTU driver… wondering if the 130Klux is because of the DRY driver?
Mine shipped via Fedex (was surprised), and took only about 5 days shipping, I think, to the east coast U.S.
Edit:
P.S. Suggestions for cleaning the lens? Also the front/flat part of the reflector has some marks, because of the messed up O-ring placement originally. Can I just wipe that front/flat part of the reflector safely?
For the HD2010 I recently measured, it's totally stock and got 57 kcd, but it may be a really good one. Your HD2010 readings may be ok, 40's is more typical, and why the KK did lower than the TF 5000 could be because of the extremely high amps you are getting that's generating heat sag, resulting in lower readings. Generally I stay away from 26650 batteries in a EAST-092 driver light.
=the='s Shocker is a T6 3C version, so it will under perform compared to a U2 CW light, so his measurements are ok.
So now that you say that, I’m wondering if maybe the reason for the 100Klux I’m getting is that the one I got may have T6s (I ordered CW on the Shocker I got)? Here’s what my order details says on the FF site:
Is there a way to visually tell what the emitter is on mine?
Only by the tint, can you tell. You should be able to see the difference compared to a 1A - not the direct center spot because that's super bright, but in the spill should be easy to tell.
Yes, mine is an underperforming BTU. It is the only light I have that consistently measures low. All of my other lights seem to measure up to expectations.
I cannot recall the original numbers, but here are the results after modding, XM-L2 U2 on copper Sinkpads, AR lens, driven with DRY driver from power supply, 4.6A, after 30s.
3450lm, 156kcd
OK, so that’s not bad, but I think it’s under what others have gotten from their modded BTU Shockers.
relic - do you recall a tailcap measurment on that Shocker? 4.6A on a power supply is one thing... I measure by simply jumping across the switch. Interesting you are getting #'s that low - all my Shocker mods though have 20 gauge wires, and mostly now, I'm copper braiding the carrier springs. Not sure of the effects though because didn't test them individually.
My results with XM-L2 T6 3C on copper SinkPADs, AR lens & better wires were just below 3000lm & about 152kcd (both after 30s). Which is very impressive for a NW light, I must add.
Well from what I've been seeing, with the centering plastics they use, it's hard to deviate much. Also, they really crank down the reflector - phillips head screw is usually pretty tight in there. Only thing I notice in the last one was the emitters got turned so much, one overlapped the hole the wires go through, but didn't seem to effect the output.
125 kcd was more typical prior to the AR lens, I believe.
I am charging cells now. With cells at 4V, things dropped out a lot. The carrier has been modified with copper braid on all springs. Emitter wires are 20 gauge as well.
I suspect the emitter centering spacers need to be thinned down some. The emitters look like they might be a little too far away from the reflector. Hard to tell though…
Really don't like the reflector design - I've seen plastic centering pieces like that steel lumens before, but somehow on the Shocker, it actually gets pretty good #'s. That big, flat reflector bottom really doesn't give you much options in getting the emitters deeper in.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that. I recall considering sanding town the spacers before, but decided against it due to the shorting risk. Bad, especially when using a DD driver.