The AR coated lenses available these days do not come in a large enough size for a Skyray or Trustfire 9x T6. But either of these lights produce so much output, even at 5.55a - 5.90a, an AR coated lens is really not required. But if one was available, I’d still purchase it…lol.
Also, I recall you mentioned you want to install one of these drivers in a Skyray 9x T6. It’s possible with that light a problem may arise due to it being wired in 3S2P, if I recall correctly. I can only say any of the drivers I mention in my last post to you, will work perfectly in a Trustfire AK-47 due to it being wired fully in series.
Yeah I’m aware I’d have to rewire the LED’s……that’s why I was considering just replacing them all. And then I realized I only paid $50 for mine at the Wallbuys sale and it may not be cost effective in comparison
Personally, I think it would be worth it to rewire and change out the LED’s for better heat sinked versions. It’ll make it more efficient and certainly brighter. My Trustfire AK-47’s I’m going to leave as is, but when I get a few more dollars together, I’m going to be doing a full upgrade to my Skyray 9x T6. If you can handle the work involved, I say go for it. Just try and get it correct the first time and you’ll be really happy you made the upgrade.
Richie, a fairly newbie here. You’ve done excellent job with detailed info. Just got to look at the thread today and happy to see the work.
I order 10 of these Ak47 (unfortunate name that may trigger NSA monitoring - LOL). Sold 5 in stock form to people i work with, $80 each. I installed the KD $20 board and confirmed your observation with Trustfire 26650 cells. They’d just flash then go out. Advertised at 5,000mAh but simply don’t have the juice to run it.
I put a 12v 2.5a (before I read your info) and it’d turn on for about 7sec then the PS protection circuit trips. I bought a 5a 12v PS and it would stay on a long time, but the fins got really hot so I didn’t leave it on long. Then I pasted on the heat conductive mud from KD. It smoked when got hot.
Looks like, It has room for a 1/4 or even a 1/2 watt resistor, the regular kind.
Do you know if the stock driver board has ReversePolarity protection on it ? A simple diode. One of my flashlights came back and the lady (not the brightest bulb) claim that it doesn’t work after she recharged batts. I opened it and three batts are upside down! I’m sure she clicked the switch a few times. Two of the batts refuse to take charge now. I’m reluctant to insert new batts…
I can try when I get home. I think it’s thin but gold plated spring.
These 10 lights all have GITD rings and appear to have the third resistor but I have access to only a couple of them right now, if two of 10 is good sampling.
I’ve also a J18 replaced. Let me check on it later at home.
Update: newest ak-47 lights do have the 3rd resistor populated, BUT not the first resistor! That space is empty. It is under two small capacitors that can be lifted up to see the first resistor. Do your KD, and others, have this first resistor ??
Newest J18 board has the third resistor unpopulated, but it does have both of the first two.
Based on that, I would guess that these 3 resistors are used to program the output voltage: 2nd & 3rd resistor (R820) are to do bootstrap to 30v output for 9x in series. 1st & 2nd resistors are to bootstrap to 23v for 7x in series. That should explain why presence of the 3rd resistor increases the brightness because you overcome the forward voltage of 9 LEDs more comfortably. Note that current vs. forward voltage is not as ideal, turning on magically or ideally at 3.1v, as you would want. At 2.7v, you should already have some current. That is the real world of semiconductors. That’s why both boards are identical, except for the resistor population to use on either 9x or 7x.
I don’t get what you mean? Aren’t that the currentsensing resistors? A picture would help…?
If these are normal currentsensingresistors then they are all parallel. The currentsensing resistors are in series with battery and LEDs, so every current which flows in the led goes through the resistors causing a voltage drop. This voltage drop is measured by the controller and used for a constant current…
If you now lower the resistor without changing other things the controller regulates to a higher current until the voltage drop is like before…
So check if they are parallel. Check which values has every light. Calculate the resulting value of resistor and you will probably see that the current corresponds the resistor values with a nice linear factor…
I just bought a Trustfire light … the logo on the barrel says 9XT6 and NOT AK47. And it says TrustFire and NOT Skyray. And the reflector pattern is what YOU show in your picture as a Skyray reflector pattern.
so what do I have? i bought this through amazon from a vendor who had had one opened and returned … so I got it for $50.
AND …
I read in a review on Amazon that the flashlight, stock, only draws 25 watts and says there is a 90W upgrade available … from somewhere NOT QUITE specified … so i can’t find it. Any idea? Does this upgrade exist? If so, from where (EXACTLY) can it be found?
THEN, this reviewer says the tube needs to be modified to fit FOUR 25500 batteries. What the diff between 25500’s and 26550’s? Why would it need 4 x 25500’s instead of 3 26650’s?
And this driver thing … WHERE is it? HOW can it be got to? SHOULD i inspect it? and if so, WHAT do i look for.
I am most especially interested in this so-called upgrade to 90W … TO GET THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE NUMBER OF LUMENS out of this beastie. If something like this is available, is it something that can just be … “Plugged In”?? I’ve got some soldering experience, but i’m NOT what one might call expert.
Can you help me out with any of this? or direct me to somewhere that already talks about these things?
The version light you have it really the Skyray unbranded.
As for light output, whether it’s a Trustfire or Skyray, stock they only put out maybe 32 watts, but it’s still a good deal of light. Back when I purchased mine, you were able to purchase from Lightmalls.com, a 90 watt driver, but they stopped making them. The new drivers available from vendors today only put out about 52 watts maximum. They may say in the description it’s 90-100 watts, but they don’t come close to it.
The actual Trustfire AK-47 is wired in series, 3S1P, so it’s very easy to swap the stock driver for the higher output 52 watt version. The Skyray is wired differently and may require the LED’s rewired in series for an upgraded driver to work properly.
Lastly, stick with the 26650 cells, they are the best and no reason to use anything else.
Look in the review of the 9xt6 to find out how to disassemble the light and how to find the driver.
Make a picture of the driver for modding assistance. And make a picture of the LEDs without reflector so that the wiring is visible.
Apologies for resurrecting this thread. A friend of mine has got the Skyray 9xT6, and after seeing this thread would rather want the reflector in the Trustfire AK-49. Do any of you know where he can purchase only the Trustfire AK-49 reflector?
As far as I know, you can't buy this reflector anywhere. I've never found or seen multi-led reflectors for sale, certainly not more than 3 LED's.
Don't worry bout the SkyRay reflector -- I don't believe that's an issue. I think the AK-47 performed better because of the higher amps. I just got 2 AK-47's, both are the body of the SkyRay 9xT6, and same reflector/LED configuration with 3 LED's in the center, not one. So, no guarantees... My AK-47's do have the TrustFire driver though, but the under-powered one resulting in about 3A at the tail with 3 cells, 3.5A with 2 cells. I'll be adding a resistor to boost it, along with copper wiring up the springs to handle the extra amps. The stock spring on the driver is a joke -- I'll be replacing it. If it fails, it can kill the driver.
Richie hasn't posted since November, so I don't think he's active anymore.
Just been lurking around here more than anything else due to not having anything relevant to post to the forum. But that original Amazon.com dealer in Hong Kong that I purchased my original AK-47 from, as pictured in my first post, just sent the newer version AK-47 to me to test. He mentioned it has a newer and better driver. The light is still in transit and being sent by DHL. I should have it soon and will post my test results.
I was contacted by this dealer and he offered to send me this light to test and I can keep it when I’m done reviewing it. But the fact I can keep it will not affect my review in any way. I’m hoping it’ll be at least 50 watt output, since 30 watts will not cut it for any of us.
good to hear from you richie. ya 50 watts would be an improvement.
but im still happy with my 90 watt that you modded for me heheh.
fyi, its still up and alive. it was finally dethroned last month for the highest lumen light i have by the niwalker mm15vn.
not by much though. its actually still tough to call.
now i want a 10k lumen light!
Glad to hear your AK-47 is still pouring out the lumens! I wish someone would start making that driver again, and glad you’ve been taking such good care of it.
