Hi Tom,
Do you have any idea why the problem with the original mod with the original driver? Maybe there’re different versions of the “stock” BTU drivers?
Oh - I did measurements of the stock Shocker and it was above average - lumens: 3,100 - 2,971, throw: 126 kcd on KP 3400's @4.15v, but forgot to measure amps but suspect it's 3.6A - 3.8A, maybe? So, the driver was ok with stock XML-U2's on Aluminum, didn't have any shorts or anything else go wrong to potentially harm the driver, but still after the mods, on other BTU drivers I got 3.6-3.7A or so after the mod upgrades.
That is incredible. I cannot get my DRY driver to give that current. Will not go above 4.3A or so on fresh cells. On a power supply it will (I can go up to 6A), but I do not get anywhere near those lumens or throw.
DRY driver on turbo is direct drive, which means all the little resistances in the circuit build up, sand/polish contact points and chuck in some high discharge cells, NCR18650PDs, IMR/INR/ICR.
That was my first jaw dropping moment - seeing 5 amps on the meter.
One of the biggest things can be cells. You have to have a battery that can give out high amps with low resistance, before you can get high amps. Everything can be perfect and still no cookie. I usually test all my builds now, DD straight from the battery, (or carrier), to the led, (on a big slug of Aluminum), to see what I am getting. Then I know if it's lower once it's in the light that I have to go hunting what the log jam is.
As I’ve just got a BTU, what would be the most gutsy batteries to use ?, not bothered about cost.
What is a DRY driver, all I know is I went for the regulated cool white version, but not up on all the lingo yet, please help a sad old git out, thanks
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Well for the stock light with the stock BTU driver, there's not much of an issue with the batteries, I believe - a high quality protected cell is probably the best you can do, like the KeepPower's - I know there may be other high quality protected batteries out there, and am really not sure if the low resistance unprotected batteries (best seems to be the Samsung 20Q or 20R, though the SONY 30 amp rated ones do well) will give you any advantage in the stock light.
The DRY driver is an option on purchase from Ric, and is also sold separately for $5. So, there isn't much to the driver - no boost, no buck, just direct drive (as opposed to regulated) on high, and I believe low or poor PWM on lower modes (flickering). With the DRY driver you may get higher output from the Shocker, but not too much without doing modifications. Basically the DRY driver is cheap because it's a cheapo driver.
Do you know how that driver performs on 2 cells with 1 led? Does it only go direct drive with 3 cells + 3 led’s?
Think I need one of these drivers 
Thanks!
This is a direct quote from Hank: It's more likely to output 3.5A with 2*18650. With 3LEDs and 3Cells the driver will probably go linear and we don't know if it will do 3.5A to each. The output current has not been tested, so we can't really say it's truly 3.5A even if that is what we requested.
Pretty sure it's 3.5A output though from previous posts, but not sure...
Sounds like a happy accident, haha.
Wish I had the funds to get a BTU shocker
ive got to get some of those batteries!!!
Thanks for your comments and help, it is very much appreciated, at least I’m learning ha ha!!
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Yes, or Samsung 20Q's or 20R's - might even be better? Check your amps though to be sure it's within reason. Also please check your copper braiding in the carrier, not sure if I did all 5, and I'm also concerned how they hold up under battery changes... I've had some fail after a while, but it may be because of my earlier methods. Seems like I learn a little more with every mod.... With the solder wick, it helps having a little extra length curled up, and you have to keep the solder from wicking up or down from the ends. If it does, toss it and try again. Those springs w/solder wick in the Shocker carrier take a beating with long cells like the KP protected ones.
instead of a good 22 or 20 ga wire? I usually even leave the silicone insulation on the short wire in case one end lets go, which hasn’t happened to date. I also solder the wire inside the spring, up against the bottom ring so that it’s on the board and in contact with the spring coil and at the top I solder it to the inside of the top 2 coils where they meet. In this way I’m not interfering with the springs travel or it’s connection to the cell, just transferring the current to the wire.
If it’s a larger spring, like on the tail switch, I actually put a bit of a coil into the wire so that it compresses vertically instead of trying to bend over and chance getting in between spring coils. I’m finding this addition makes the single biggest difference when modding a light, aside from an emitter swap. It also lets you tweak the most from a driver swap.
Dale - don't think I tried the silicone wire, I think (maybe once?). The springs compress close to fully flat though with KP 3400's, so wondering if there's room for the insulation on 22 gauge for example. I should really try it though. It sounds like I solder the solder wick ends exactly like you describe for the wire. Well, got two more Shocker battery carriers to wire up at home, so, time to try it!! Wondering if it would make a difference for a TN31, hhmm...
Very impressive results Tom. And I thought my 3700 lumen BTU was impressive. Now you made it possible to get another 1000 lumens out of it. Wow. Very cool experiment. That setup isn’t to practical with little batteries and direct drive though. Might be if fun to have a spare BTU “turbocharged” like that just for fun.
Wonder if using lower quality batteries are the culprit for other not satisfied owners of BTU?
In my case, I don’t think so. I’ve tried 3xEfest IMRs and also new (bought in anticipation of the Shocker) 3xCGR18650 (high drain) batteries, with same results, ~100Klux.
Edit: These are the CGR18650s:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230794118631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Thanks ohaya.
Did you message Ric about your issue?