If you have a look at this image, it's the Jacob A60 1 meter from a wall and it will give you a rough idea of what to expect when the hotspot is focused properly.
It's the top left image you want. (I just grabbed it quickly from my review thread)
The hotspot on mine looks similar to the top-left image (at 1 meter), but it’s just very. I take my lux measurements at 39 feet (11.887 meters, I think), and as I said, it’s only about 22 - 25Klux (vs. > 50 lux) now.
Edit: Hmmm. I see from your review thread that you were getting 2.1 amps on high? That seems like a problem for mine, where I’m seeing only ~0.8 amps!
Jim - we gotta stop meeting like this... . The 0.8 amps is a definite problem and probably explains the output. Been a while since I worked on a Jacob, but you really want 2-2.4 amps, but think'n stock, it does 1.6 or 2 amps?? something like that - viffer notes 2.0 amps on his, so 0.8 is really low. Maybe some really bad resistance somewhere, or could be the driver. The EZ900 XR-E's do the best throw in a Jacob, as high as in the 70's stock I believe.
My final mod on the A60 is using a Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A) and a XP-E2 emitter w/dome - does over 100 kcd - did the same for manxbuggy1 for his, listed here at 116 kcd: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18214
Sorry about “meeting”. I posted a thread earlier about being “unlucky”, so I guess I get a lot of the “problem childs” :).
I just editted my post about the 2.1 amps, so I agree. I’ll try to see if I can figure out what’s going on there. FYI, my measurement was at the battery negative with no tailcap, so the tailcap switch wasn’t in the picture.
I did remove the driver for a look-see, maybe I didn’t tighten it down enough. I’ll check that out.
My final mod on the A60 is using a Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A) and a XP-E2 emitter w/dome - does over 100 kcd - did the same for manxbuggy1 for his, listed here at 116 kcd: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18214
To eliminate any body contact, etc. issues, I hooked up a battery directly to the driver spring and negative contact, going through my meter to measure current.
And, I got a whopping…. 0.72 amps :(!!
Yep, less than when the light was put together.
I’m not familiar with the stock A60 driver, but this seems like a bad driver, right?
jim, did you get yours from aurabuy? that’s where mine came from and it was only pulling an amp……
bell out the plus contacts and there is one on the driver that goes direct to the battery, also bell out the neg ring and move the led neg wire to there, DO NOT DO ANY FURTHER RESISTANCE IMPROVEMENTS just move the wires, you can find my pictures in the review thread that is not spasmod’s, it should instantly hot 2.45a, it will still have next mode memory, the mode group goes:-
high
off
high
off
high
off
1.4a is still not 2.4a you want a 7 * 7135 driver, not a 4 * 7135 driver, I will be going for a nanjg at some point just to give a nice mode spread, the whole point of a jacobs though is a seriously over driven xre, no point fitting a driver thats not going to spank that emitters behind.
my posts are on aged briars a60 thread for the pictures, but you don’t need them, just bell out the + and - on the driver, ot took me ten minutes working on my vans passenger seat with practically no tools other than an iron.
So, just move the blue wire on the emitter side to the outer contact ring, and the red wire on the emitter side to what looks like (from the 2nd pic) one end of the resistor in the 2nd pic? And that end of the resistor should ohm out to the battery + side on the other side of the driver (i.e., the spring)?
In your post quoted above, you listed modes, but in that post in the other thread (I linked) you said direct drive, so I’m confused about that. Is there still going to be modes after moving the red and blue wires as you suggested?
Thanks,
Jim
Hi,
I got this A60 from another BLF user, so I’m not sure from where it was bought. I’ll try to find the pics you mentioned and give that a try.
3a wont smoke the emitter, just tom found there is no benefit to going above 2.5a, as for the modes, the modes are off and on :bigsmile: it is indeed direct drive.
dont follow my pictures. set your multimeter to the continuity setting with the beeper. ie touch the probes together, it beeps.
find the positive connections that beep and put your red wire here.
find the connection point that beeps to the ground ring. put your blue wire here (the driver does the modes through the negative side if I remember correctly). check your tailcap reading then check your lux. DO NOT FIT A PAPER SPACER UNDER THE EMITTER, DO NOT DO ANY OTHER RESISTANCE IMPROVEMENTS.
I built a direct drive one up with heavy gauge wire and a contact board and it promptly pulled 3.26a before I broke the connection, I then rewired it as that was bordering on ridiculous.