Iām guessing he meant the driver from his dead BTU (dead, for some other reason)?
Ohh - I'm all confused... But interested if he was able to re-produce what I seen. Just haven't had a chance yet to mod the next Shocker same way to see if it can be re-produced... Really would have been better for me to do a lot more testing/experimentation with it while I still had it...
Tom E, OK Iāll try to de-confuse things a bit.
Regarding the new cells, I ordered higher discharge rate cells ā(Pana PDs)ā:https://www.fasttech.com/products/1233700 to see if they can hold a better voltage under load than the Sanyo ZTs. Fasttech sent them by SingPost, so I hope to see them before Augustā¦
Regarding my BTU driver, I fried it a while ago and it turned into a single-mode ādriverā that delivers a lot of current (over 5A). I decided to swap to a DRY driver, which is not delivering nearly as much current.
I still have the issue of lower output than your tested BTUs (stock and modded) at the same drive current. I am not trying to address that at the moment. Right now, I want to overcome the potential issue I have of lower drive current when running on cells. That is what the new cells are for.
I may also take a closer look at the DRY driver for any resistance mods that can be done.
Hi,
When you said:
did you mean you just went direct drive and used the original BTU Shockerās driver as a contact board?
Or, did you mean something else?
No pics of the mods with the stars mounted?
Iām interested in the easiest way to lap the bottom of the sinkpad stars and the heatsink surfaces?
ohaya, I meant the driver is now a glorified piece of wire. 
I think I reversed the polarity on it and that caused it to release some magic smoke. I still have it intact in a bin of replaced drivers, but thereās no physical sign of damage that I can see.
simplec6, the easiest way to lap a star is to use gradually finer grits of sandpaper on a flat surface. For each cycle, sand the bottom of the star until it has a uniform finish. Then repeat with the next finer paper. I finish off with a mirror-like finish at 2000 grit. Others continue to 2500 grit.
Based on this result, I think 2000 grit is acceptable.
relic,
Looking at your āmirror finishā, Iām starting to realize that I donāt have enough patience for this hobby :(!
Neither do I
In reality, you donāt have to go that quite that far. I just figured I might as well since I was a few hours in already, whatās another 20 minutes 
Iām sitting here at work, waiting very impatiently to get home and play with this Shocker Tom E modded for me. I have a sucky point and shoot camera, but I might try to figure out how to take some comparison shots with my other throwers (TN31, TK70, Flexcandles Asgard). Unfortunately, I do not have a lux meter, so I canāt do any lux testing either 
I will, however, be happy to test the current at the switch with some different batteries. I have the Samsung INR18650-20R batteries which have a rated max discharge of 22 amps. I also have some NCR18650PDās on the way, but they probably wonāt be here for a week or two. I will try and post as much info as I can.
A big thanks to Tom E for modding this light for me! I absolutely cannot wait to get home and play with this thing.
A tip from the CPU heatsink lapping savants: Go to a local glass shop and ask if you can have a piece of thick (5/8ā to 1ā) scrap glass. It is the flattest, hardest, least flexible surface you will find and is about as good as it gets for making sure your lapping is completely uniform and flat. If you want a mirror finish after using sandpaper, you can polish it with some 3M rubbing compound.
Very nice finish, but just solder the MCPCB to that big board, thermal pastes or glues are not going to match solder conductivity of around 60W/m.K
hey orairwolf, i had a tk70 , and it was a beast. can you give me some comparision notes to your tk70 vs your modded shocker.
Thereās no way Iād ever be precise enough to get three emitters perfectly aligned in the reflector holes while soldering them down. Iām sure it can be done, just not by me.
Updated the OP with info on latest de-domed Shocker...
That is some sick numbers! :love:
5.7A: 4,100 lumens at 30 secs, 467 kcd
HOLY MOTHER.
Awesome job Tom!
As usual, I just have to ask, for how long time do you see 5A+ 4,5A+ and 4A+ with those batteries?
They are not exactly high capacity..
Updated OP with maybe some info that might answer this - bottom line is not very long... 
. You don't want to go out for a stroll with this thing on high. Of course your arm would tire, you'd drop the head down, then go blind from the reflected light off the ground... Or, you would get that warm, cozy feeling working it's way up your fingers, and figure you'd better drop it to medium or low, rather than just dropping it before that funny smell you are noticing... burning skin... Medium mode though is 2,000 lumens - gotta love this thing!
Thanks, If I should ever do something similar, then I would probably just stick to some 2900mAh PD cells.. And some emitter mixing..
Agree - Pana PD's are a nice compromise, but even on KP 3400's, it's an incredibly powerful light that would get at least some runtime. We kind of reached the limits on this form factor of 3 LED's, 3 18650 cells. This just kind of proves what's possible, not necessarily practical.