Sorry to bounce between this and the “100%” thread…
FYI, I think the problem was not waiting long enough. I did a longer re-soak, and that residue on the emitter itself disappeared after that longer soak (about 6+ hours, I think). On the XP-G2, I think, as far as I could see, there were only 2 wires, on the side where there’s a “+” on the PCB. I know that I’ve seen references to an ESD wire on XM-Ls, but the XP-G2 looks like (the wires are tiny, and I can barely see them with a 10x magnifying glass) there’re only 2 wires.
Were you referring to the pic of the XM-L on the “100%” thread?
I dedomed 2 XM-Ls the last couple of days.
An XM-L T6 (from Amazon) went in my shorty STL-V6, and is now giving me 122 Klux,
The other XM-L U3 (from FT) is in my Jacob A60, and is giving me 87 Klux now.
Post #1019 in the other thread, close-up pic of the XP-G2 de-domed:
I just so happend to have a de-domed XP-G2 on a 20mm Noctigon around, and those 2 pts above the emitter in the pic above are connected by a wire on mine - yours appear to be missing the wire.
Ooops, sorry, 2 connections just above the yellow pad - one connection is to the left of the trace cut (small connection), the other is to the right (large connection). The wire is supposed to connect the 2 connections but it's gone.
Took a C8 pill with Sinkpad still JBWelded in place, made about a dozen shallow cuts all over the dome, tied it to a copper wire and dropped it in the who-knows-how-old gas (at least a year old, from last year's lawnmower gas, has been used for around 15 de-domes and I forget how many reflectors that needed the orange peel stripped). An hour later...
...and after 5 minutes with my homemade plastic toothpick...
Scoring the dome with a razor makes it happen A LOT faster.
As I see it, the main purpose of removing the dome is to eliminate a converging lens because it reduces the effective focal length and therefore enlarges the throw hot spot.
So, maybe, the next step in that direction is to introduce a diverging element to increase the effective focal length and make a smaller spot. A common device of this sort is a Cassegrain telescope or microwave antenna. As a transmitting antenna, it focuses a finite size source to a small angular range, as we want for a thrower light.
Classically this would be done by putting a convex, ideally hyperbolic, mirror in front of the led and surrounding it with a parabolic mirror as usual. The light that misses the diverging mirror would form the spill, being out of focus for the main reflector. Other possible configurations would be adding a diverging lens to an aspheric or putting a diverging lens between a backwards facing led and a parabolic reflector. Something close to a classical Cassegrain seems the most compact.
The spill is partly focused, which may reduce the chance of blinding people near you.
Although I become your member just recently I was lurking this thread as a guest before…
Yes I have 100% rate so far and sometimes I don’t care to clean silicone residues and it still works perfect… I am testing each on aspherical lenses.
I recently tried to put fujik carefully around XP-G2 led emitter to protect those tiny wires from eventual drop or shock… I got that idea thanks to DBCstm and his black solder glue(page eight) that looks very interesting so I ordered some of that from ebay…
It is still on a shock test but I think Fujik can not harm to those tiny wires as when it cures has similar properties as pencil eraser we used so much in old school days…
Any idea of protecting led after de-doming would be much appreciated…
I did another XPG2 with cuts all over the dome, dome floated off after 40 minutes, left it in for another hour and every bit of silicone was gone. Didn't even need to use the plastic scraper.
that’s true, it’s easier to manipulate when you have a star to hold it, with bare emitter there is much more chance that something will go wrong but last time I tried to do XP-G dedoming I noticed something like rust on one side of the emitter, the place where emitter touches the al board, strange, because aluminum oxidation is white and this was something like black rust…
I have throw beam pictures that I will upload when I find a place to put them.
I glued a –116 mm focal length concave lens to black construction paper and stuck it over the led of a Sipik 68. I think the curved surface sat right on top of the dome. I unscrewed the bezel almost till it fell off to get it to focus. The XR-E image was smaller, but maybe not any brighter.
So the first order optics concept is demonstrated, but it remains to be seen if one can actually get more throw this way. I have not found an easy way to figure light loss.
With secondary lens:
Without secondary lens:
Sipik Sk68 w & w/o diverging secondary on left. UltraFire SK68 3 Mode on right.
Well this seems ok for LED wire protection but I think we can expect great lux drop if we put that direct on phosphor layer of emitter because it creates thin layer of silicone or something like that…
Maybe this thing could work without lux drop but only on phosphor layer
Liquid Glass Shield http://youtu.be/xufAQ8SHLxc
I believe that somewhere out there must be simple solution(better than wavien collar) of improving phosphor brightness of LED emitter like some kind of super glow phosphor adhesive or spray that would double lux/lumen…
But if some guy finds out how to do it he will probably keep that secret for himself
