Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

Should work with any 3.x V LEDs. You could parallel the outputs and drive a single LED at 6 or 9A.

One note on SST-90. It has a fairly high Vf even when driven at only 3A (3.47V after ten seconds or so). An XM-L is right around 3.2V at 3A, XM-L2 is 150mV or so higher.
The result on and SST-90 will be an early drop-out of regulation.
At 6A, the SST-90 Vf is 3.65V.
Note: These were tested on actual emitters I had mounted on a heatsink.

can’t wait until it finished :slight_smile:

It depends on how much quality you want and if you'll swap the emitters and MCPCB's.

The CNQ/FFL SRK is considered the highest quality and comes with XM-L2 U2's. That might even save you money if you reflow them onto better stars. This is the way to go if you want the best SRK you can build.

I believe the Fandyfire UV-S5 is the highest quality SRK clone from Fasttech, but you'll probably want to replace the LED's and stars.

Fasttech has less expensive SRK clones. From what I gather, compared to the real SRK, the big differences are the clickie may not be as reliable and the threads aren't as smooth. If you just want the form factor and the driver, I think this is the way to go.

Another option might be the Supfire M6. It might use the same 46mm driver, which will make installing texaspyro's driver a perfect fit. The bad news is Supfire can't give us a solid answer, so it might actually be a 50mm driver, which I think will be MUCH more difficult than trying to install a 17mm driver in a 22mm pill. The M6 also uses old emitters. There's currently a group buy that has the M6 at $33 shipped. This could be a very nice choice if texaspyro is willing to make a wider version of this driver and if the emitters and stars are upgraded.

You texaspyro are a god, I and I am sure my fellow flashers really appreciate what you are doing, I’m defo in for 2 as soon as ready, hope it comes with a instruction sheet!!
Keep up the awsome work, and thanks.
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@leaftye: Thanks for your answer, it helped a lot!

The machining tolerances on the latest batch(es) of SRK clones are horrible. Parts aren't concentric, meaning there will be a thick side and a paper thin side. And the threads don't mate correctly, some of them you can 'walk' the head off the battery tube threads without rotating it like normal. The o-ring on the battery tube doesn't touch the bore in the head because it's machined oversize, etc. and etc. some more...

Is that from specific vendors or everyone?

I have no idea, but as often as the suppliers change things without notice even if you had a 100% accurate definitive list of the good ones and the bad ones at this moment in time, next week it could all change again and you'd be right back where you started, playing the lottery.

Consistently, the good ones are the gold UV-S5 from FT, or the ones from fancyflashlights/CNQG (they carry both the good ones and the clones, but which is which is clearly listed).

Gotcha thanks. I guess it doesn’t matter to me- mine is good enough- I was mainly disappointed with the performance, which this driver should rectify.

Damned tootin’! I plan on one for the SP03 and other for one of my 2 SRK. :smiley:

Definitely count me in for one!

I’m new to the forum but an acquaintance of mine from LPF (where I’m a veteran member) who spends a lot of time here sent me this way. I just ordered a SRK with the XM-L2 U2 emitters from CNQG and I’d like to drive those emitters as close to 3A as possible.

I REALLY like the ability to select which modes you want and the fact that you have a fast strobe available.

So, will the driver be 3.05A as in the OP or 2.8A as in a later post? If it is only going to be 2.8A, what all is involved in bumping up the current? I assume just paralleling on more smd regulators?

It will probably be 2.8A, the 380 mA regulators just are not available at cost effective prices. To boost the current to 3A you would need to add another regulator chip to each channel.

I’m sorry for the silly question but being the inept person I am when it comes to electronics l have to ask. This driver I think is designed for an electronic switch? Will it work with a normal on off tailcap switch?

Nope…

*gives you money to build me one!

Thanks TP. Now I have to learn about electronic switches. I reckon your driver would be a killer in a custom built 3 led light.

It's just a momentary pushbutton, non-latching. Like on a TV remote. The switch grounds a pin and the driver does whatever it's programmed to do until the switch is pressed again.

Thats simple enough. Thanks. I’m interested in the driver as well.

If it works in the SP03 I am definitely in for one. This work is way beyond me, so I would have no idea how it works or why. But it sounds good.