BLF customized Tank007 Lights: Which would you be interested in?

My vote goes for a TK007 E07 4 mode starting at moon low going to 1.8 amp high with an R5 or T6 emitter.

I'd pay a little more for the E07 if we can get it with an Xp-G or XM-L. (Hard driven XP-G would probably be best given the size makes it inherently floody. Could we get a 1.5amp driver with an R4 or R5 for it?). The special modes by themselves are not enough to make me want to spend extra over the basic model. Otherwise that 567 looks pretty good. Without the extension would be best, again with a 1.5amp driver.

I'm not really a fan of the fat body required of the zoom lights/3xaaa form factor. I'd only be interested if I knew for certain the output really smoked.

My $0.02.

I would totaly buy E07 on one AA battery with super low (moonlight), low, medium and high mode for around $15 - $20.

You can count me in on a 567 if it will be less than 30 bucks even better yet at the target 24 bucks! I would take the E07 too if it was at the 20 dollar mark. It would be nice with modes! I would take both of them lol. Put in a quality LED and a good driver and I'm happy (but please leave out the SOS)!

I like a variety of torches and mode selection as long as the UI isn't stupid so i'm up for anything you guys decide on. I have some torches that start in low, some that start in high and some with or without memory or strobe and they each serve a different purpose for me.

I think reputable flashlight manufacturers only make lights that can be run on high mode for the entire duration of the battery charge...

Well said. Me too. 1 x AA (clip would be nice) and 2 x AA.

Joel

Hi Joel, I would also like a clip. I don't think this can be cheaply integrated into the design. But maybe some sort of snap-on clip would be possible.

I'm in for the TK-567: XP-G R4 nw, SL-L-M-H w/o mem, AA extension tube.

If I could have a beacon mode and a alpine distress signal mode I would even pay more (say up to 30 $ ) but only if it's hidden.

edit: BLF logo would be nice, too!

I like the TK-567 as it stands out from other AA lights.

[quote=sb56637] And what would you think about the reverse mode order of Super-low > Low > Med > Max? [/quote]

That would be my preference, but high - super-low would be fine to.

I really dilike the extension tube and wouldn't really want one, it's obviously not made for this light - it has similar styling to the SS C3.

Would there be some kind of BLF branding on this or would that add too much extra to the price?

I'm interested in TK-737, maybe little cheaper about 22$ would be fine. 4 modes and no blinky is good to me.

I'm in for Tank007 TK-567

  • Customization: XP-G LED (R4 or R5)
  • Customization 4 non-blinking/non-flashing modes (with moon mode)
  • Standard feature: Tailstands
  • Standard feature: No extension tube
  • Standard feature: AA or 14500 dual-capability driver
  • Approximate price: $20/22

2,8 amps on P60-style host can be used for a duration of an 18650 without serious heat problem. It will get hottish, but not too hot to hande (just don't mess with the head). Zoomability might be a problem though.

And there is of course the notorious Ultrafire UF-980, pulling 4,5+ amps. Don't know if they can be put to reputable category... But you are right about reputable manufacturers usually being sissy what comes to driving their emitters,

BLF branding would be great. I mean there is for example the ITP A3 Eos Upgrade, why couldn't there be Tank007 E07 BLF edition?

Count me in for a Tank 737 with XM-L

3-mode more than enough for me.

If it doesn't get too hot too handle with 10+ watts in a P60 you're cooking the emitter (and you'll still cooking the emitter if it's too hot to handle). And it will be even worse in that zoom light.

UF-980 doesn't pull 4.5+ amps with protected cells or? In any case the body is much larger than a normal P60 light.

I think you can forget custom printing too, even their own UV light series have "CREE XR-E" printed on the body even though it doesn't have any CREE what so ever inside. It seems they only make one print for one model.

I have'nt really had a problem using the MF UF 3mode dropin which is a p60 on a solarforce L2 and a smaller uf 501a(16340). if it got too hot i would just switch to the lower modes. Theres a lot of other people who have the UF 3mode and other XML lights driven over 3 amps. i figured if youre gonna go XML at least have the option to drive it to the optimum current.I usually switch to mid or low if it got too hot or use high momentarily. I tried the xml on a sipik sk68 and the original driver which only drove it to i think 1.4amps. I was pretty happy with it but had to put the LED back on the trustfire F15. So getting a zoomie driven to 3amps is what id like.

The e07 and the 567 look beautiful to me . Zoomies tend to sit on my shelf but either way, I’d buy an xm-l tank007 zoomie if it was a blf edition:) I would just prefer the other two options:)

I like the 567 also but I would really like a clip. A nice light like that, I want to EDC but not without a clip.
If the E07 is the direction this takes, I would vote for the osram. Something different. How many Q5s can a guy have.

I don't like the looks of the 567 but would be very interested in an E07 with a neutral XM-L driven at 1.4a - 1.8a with ultra low (5 lumen) > low (30 lumen) > medium (150 lumen) > high (100%) in that order with ot without memory. Just my 2¢ but I'd pay $30 easy for that sweetness.

Johnny

I'm in for the TK-567: XP-G R4 nw, SL-L-M-H w/o mem, AA extension tube.

I got the last BLF light with this sequence and starting on really low and clicking several times to reach high time I needed to turn it off momentarily was ridiculous. It seemed better on paper than reality. If mode memory is properly done I don't really see the drawback, someone who used low a lot still has it every time the light turns on, or they can switch to it (or whatever their favorite mode is) before turning it off from another mode.

I also proposed something like a M-H-SL-L for no-mem lights or if they're just going to used crappy memory implementation where it takes 5 seconds of off to make it stick. M is like 30 lumen on nimh which really isn't that bright. 5-10 lumen for low is already $0.50 1-led keychain light level. If I wanted a 5 lumen light, I wouldn't have spent $25 on it.

Also, a super low isn't necessarily going to save you much when the battery is low, PWM takes full current instantaneously. The "moonlight" modes on expensive lights are implemented I think with different kind of circuit which these aren't going to have.

Anyway, just my honest opinion.

On the lights themselves, an XML with a zoom lense is not necesarily a good idea unless they can use a custom lense with short focal length.

An extension tube would be a good idea since there aren't that many decent 2AA lights out there, and the option for one is pretty nice.

If they can use a slightly neutral-ish tint like the Mr.Lite, but without the ridiculous modes, I'm sold.