Yep, and a 30V drop on a 600V line only 5, but a 3V drop on a 4.2V line is a 70 loss. I normally use the resistor to scope the DC bus current and primary current of my solid state tesla coils, there the worst side effect is the slight de-Qing of the resonant circuit.
I rigged up a PD to check the PWM of low mode and it appears to be a 500uS pulse every 4.5mS, or roughly 10% duty at 222Hz.
Don’t forget there are four cells in there, so it would take approx. 4 months to reach 60% on parasitic drain alone.
IMO that is acceptable, especially for a light with tailcap lockout. Could be better, but acceptable.
Ah yeah, forgot about the multi-cell thing.. Still awfully high though..
I joined up specifically because of this thread. I have been “collecting” lights for a while and have a SRK that I was going to program my own driver for. This beats what I was going to do hands down. I would just like to say congratulations to texaspyro for the work so far and to also say I will purchase 3 boards when they are ready. I have no problems with SMD soldering, electronics in general or microprocessor programming so if texaspyro is after a guinea pig for any beta testing I happily put my hand up, just ask.
Once again thanks texaspyro
I bow and salute you Sir TexasPyro,
Your effort and dedication to the cause has not gone unnoticed, I will be glad to put some extra moolah your way when ready,
tabs
Any updates TexasPyro? I got a kung I want to try this driver in. This driver would be alot easier than wiring up 4 2800ma amc7135 drivers in there.
I made some tweaks to the board layout to make it easier to add a slave driver. Waiting on the prototype boards to come in…
I’m definitely in for one!
I managed to toast one of the REGs when I disassembled (wire came loose, shorted the REG…).
I love what you are doing with this driver! The parasitic is awesome and the modes are as well.
However: is it possible to program this ourselves?
I ’d really like a simple high/med/low/off or High/low/moon/off for regular use and then a Moon/strobe/SOS/ramp/etc etc for a second group.
You can program the modes that you want to use (in the order that you want to use them) along with several other options. Think of the default mode list as a menu of available modes (there’s a LOT of them). You enter programming mode by holding the button down while applying power to the light. Click to the first mode that you want to use and hold down the button for one second and that mode is stored. Lather, rinse, repeat…
The firmware does not support mode groups, though.
OK, so I can program it on the UI! That’s sweet!
I was thinking of hooking it up to a computer to reprogram, but this is even better!
With this it’s possible to change the programming on the fly!
Awesome!
PS: now I’m in for TWO driver boards! 
I’m really hoping its up for release soon. I don’t really want to wire up 4 amc7135’s drivers in there. If I did I would want to wire them individually to each led. I was hoping you would save me from all that wiring. :bigsmile:
Do we need to get on a list? Pay in advance? Learn a secret handshake?
If I receive my two M6’s I’ll need pair of these.
Looking forward to moding my first flashlight.
TexasPyro, you should sell the lights with driver installed as a unit too: I know a few who would buy already.
I’d be all over that like a hobo on a ham sammich!
-Jamie M.
me too
Great job on the driver, count me in for 2 please. I joined particularly because of this thread, I’ve been buying lights for a couple months now and always come to BLF for reviews and recommendations. Once I saw this thread last week I had to get myself an SRK, actually I got a FandyFire UV-S5 from FT. I couldn’t be happier with the quality, the anodizing was perfect LED’s are centered, even has the 3 toroid driver, no PWM noise on low. I’m going to buy another when you make these available so I can mod both and have some back up drivers, you know, for the zombie apocalypse.
tp, do you think there would be any issues with tying all 3 channels together to run a single parallel array?
For the few that don't mind adding their own components, are you selling the bare circuit board yet?
Should work fine…
Im curious about this too.