BTU Shocker - $99 Free Ship at FF

Tom, which of the drivers would you pick to use with the sink pads? Still not sure I want one because of the size of this thing though.

Which of the 2 offered? Oh boy, good Q. That's why I'd like to find out more, or see a new one. If they made absolutely no other changes, take the BTU Shocker driver because of better PWM's, 3 mins till step down, moderate improvement in output. Or, take the DRY if you don't care about the poor PWM's in med and lo, and you should get a little more output -- but who knows?? With either driver you will get improvements of making resistance mods, but the potential is higher of course with the DRY driver. I can't say I found the true cause of the extra amp droppage when upgrading to XM-L2 on copper - you may get the same effect on a BTU or DRY driver, but I've only seen it on the BTU driver - I've only done one DRY driver Shocker mod, but done a few BTU driver Shocker mods.

This is why I like the IOS 3.5A driver - simply hi-med-lo with no step down, basically goes direct drive in the Shocker configuration (3S cells, 3S LED's). I really like SinkPAD's in this light though - you eliminate the big, slow drop in output, and even if you are doing 3.4A, you are getting more output from the LED's on copper - Match's test results proved that out.

The IOS 3.5amp? Is that the one they say is for 7leds?

A lot of useful details.
Modding isn’t plug & play thing.

Do any 18650’s fit in the carrier? Even big Panasonic protected 3400’s?

I am looking across L.I.S right now…you have to STOP inciting me to buy this light…or you will have to make time to mod it for me…

BAM! Bought one. Too late to send it to you direct.

No, this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-35a-ouput-55126v-p-543.html

It doesn't fit exact, it's a little short in diameter and height for the contact board (wish I could find a better contact board for it), and I've been beefing up the wires used in it. I'll build up the edges with solder and extend it with copper sheet metal. Yes, it's a PITA, but as a "wow", 4500+ lumens option, pretty sic. No clue how it achieve 1,500 per emitter....

Thanks, I’ll have to think about that one.

Try to pay and I receive a failure message in PayPal’s page.

I was looking over at you last night! Well, maybe a little west of you. Played softball, playoffs, pitched, last night at Teddy Roosevelt park in Oyster Bay on the harbor. Had a couple of beers after the 2 wins, took out my mod'ed TN31 and was lighting up moored boats out in the harbor at a pretty good distance - guys were impressed, to say the least... Still thoug, too much light around to really show it off for what a 360 kcd light can do.

I use KP 3400's all the time - they even fit after copper braiding the springs, though they are tight. Didn't try the Pana branded protected 34's, though I got some - maybe I'll try this eve.

What’s the physical size difference between the Shocker and the TN31 as far as weight and length? Are they exhausting to hold after a while? I know the Shocker must throw a much larger beam…right?

Tom, you DO know they’re using a quote from you to sell these things don’t you?! :slight_smile: (if you scroll down below the pics) - You’re the EF Hutton of throwers! :bigsmile:

Where do you put the lead on this to measure the amps? Sorry….

The Shocker is huge and it’s very heavy. The Shocker with 3 emitters is more floody the TN 31 will throw a small beam farther.

The Shocker is a freak'n workout, or, if it's normal, then the TN31 is a pocket EDC! You know, wish I had a Shocker last night with me, but the TN31 seems so small and a lightweight now - I've been handling mostly Shockers lately. It's all relative - and size does matter .

Well, I'm sure you've seen some of the Shocker beam shots -- it's awesome stock, but doing 5 amps at 4,500 lumens and 223 kcd throw, I can't imagine anything close to it for it's size. Well, maybe that's for 10 minutes or so on Sam 20R cells...

De-domed, you could get more throw, and if somehow someone could build a triple MT-G2, you could out do it's total output. But I think the fully modded Shocker represents the current latest LED technology very well, though it is a pretty plain looking package and simple internals - an upsized HD2010.

rikr - ohh, just jump over the switch with the DMM leads -- it's simple (one lead on 1 side of the switch, the other lead on the other end of the switch). I do the same thing on a SS T08 when you remove the end cap. I don't think you lose much in the switch itself, from the light box measurements I've taken. I use 12 gauge leads though - very accurate, no loss.

Ok, ok…wow! Did not expect this upon waking up!

So I’m a little concerned about this forward voltage thing with XML2. Is the $15 upgrade to XML2 on sinkpads worth it then? I’d have the stock BTU driver and mine would not be modded.

Ohhh - that's just my comments I left. It's a love/hate thing for me with the Shocker, I've had some very frustrating experiences with working on them, but love the final results. To buy/own one, you really have to be committed to it's size and weight.

Tom,
are you saying(looking at the picture) Put a lead at 12 and 6 o’clock Thanks

Joe - tuff call, I'm thinking it's still worth it but maybe you won't get the 20% you might expect, and even if you run on good Pana protected, I don't think you'll get the same effect as continuous dropping output as the cells drain, as you may on single cell, single emitter linear driver lights (C8 type). Just for the copper stars, the extra $15 is worth it -- copper gives you more output, longer run at higher output, better heat sinking, etc. Aluminum stars are not an option anymore for me.

I'm thinking for the stock configuration, Ric may have been better offering XML U3's on SinkPAD's, but not sure. But, you still should get longer battery usage out of the XM-L2's even if the output isn't that much more.