I would like to say, anyone sitting on the fence about this light, just buy one and be happy, I love mine to bits, it has everything, options for modes, a brilliant moon low if you wish, emitter options to suit everyone, from cw to ho cri, will basically run on most common flashaholic cells, I believe that though its not recommended and I’ve not tried it myself, you can even force two cr123’s to run it although I dont recommend it. The reflector gives a smooth beam although you do get a couple of reflection rings from the bezel.
Put it this way, I packed up all my lights for my house move. The two I kept on hand other than edc’s, were my holstered trustfire t2 and my xintd x3. I got the 6a1 tint and it’s that good its bumped the 4c tint as my favourite, the high cri is just a thing to behold if you’ve not tried it before, cw lights suddenly become unusable because everything looks so bland and washed out.
The thick body tube also gives a very satisfying grip, it fits the hand just so.
mines sat next to me whilst I enjoy an ale and a baileys in the new house, I’m watching the sun go down, pulled my convoy l2 out of storage and I’m going to introduce myeelf to the neighbours the only way a flashaholic knows how…….with a few hundred lumens of nw and hi cri throw J) 0:) :party:
I'm using gimp right now. I wouldn't say it's a snap. I can use a smart crop of some sort, but then I have to decide what to do about the shadow. I could use a color match to select and then crop or delete, but it inevitably matches part of the bezel. On my K2 review it matched part of the white side clickie and made it disappear in some of the 360° pictures. There's not enough data to do a good white balance or adjust the brightness or curves, which probably wouldn't have happened if I shot RAW instead of jpeg.
It would be so much better if I can master the use of a light box enough so that photos require nothing more than a simple crop and resize to use in reviews.
I might try more editing or reshoot the pictures, but I need to work on other parts of the review first. I might even leave the bad pictures up as a reminder of how much I've progressed...in hopes that my photography and editing skills progress.
Maybe I'll hit you up for tips if decide to go back and edit instead of taking new pictures.
Good question. I'll be adding lux meter and tailcap current readings to find out.
I wish you could be here too buddy, the seller even left us bacardi and whisky, along with tools for the garden and a lot of other stuff, I’m really really stoked with the new house and I now have a workshop, the neighbours are soon to find out what a 5a xp-g2 vs dedomed 5a xm-l2 looks like, the lucky buggers, I also have an acceptable beam shot range from my back door with not too much light pollution. Gords has done good. I even have a street light to try and turn off from my bedroom window, oh the new neighbours will love me lol.
Best I got is a lux reading with Eneloops that is 66% of what it is with a flat top King King ICR26650. For comparison, the same cell put straight into a HD2010 is 88%.
This is the first time I've used my lux meter with a flashlight, so let's call them preliminary at best.
What's wrong with the beam shots I have up now? Do you mean wall shots?
I compared some lux readings here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20211#comment-446490
I still need to standardize how I take those readings before I add it to the top.
Lumens will require me to finish building and calibrating my integrating sphere bucket, and even that might be a while because I'm probably going to get a different lux meter that will require me to recalibrate and retest everything.
I can't do lumen sag.
Tailcap readings will come tomorrow, and battery life can be estimated from that.