I would imagine it could be modded using the same driver. I know which one you mean I have used it twice now and have one in a 6x with U3’s. The thing is that both lights are close in brightness with this one having a longer run time before it gets so hot. I could use the same IO driver and run two arrays of emitters. 7 in one and 8 in the other in series and run the two series of arrays parallel to each other. I have no idea if the batteries could handle it, but I’m guess that they simply wouldn’t. I think they would overheat the driver too. So chances are the only mods I will be able to do will be resistance mods and I’m not sure I want to. As it stands I have a light that is around the same brightness as the 6XU3 with better efficiency, thermal management and run time.
I have a J-18 (7x) on the way that I won on wallbuys sale and that is getting the IO driver and XM-L2’s. That one should be very interesting as well. I’ll probably end up doing the same thing with a 9x one of these days too.
Once you contact them they will let you know how much shipping is and only some of them end up being good deals, most of them are only ok. They will send you shipping and give you their paypal address to send the money to.
With me they got back with a really high shipping quote and then I got them to ship it via Singapore Post and it was much cheaper and it still got here fast enough.
Here are some pictures of the driver and the emitters. While I had it apart I replaced the positive and negative wires coming off the driver and I did the copper on the spring mod. Not sure if it made any difference though.
I would think so. I was amazed to see that only one of the fifteen emitters was off center and it wasn’t even bad. It would take me all day to wire that light and center the emitters.
Ok I take it back it is brighter with the heavy wires and copper spring mod. It didn’t seem to make that big of a difference the first time because I put 18650’s in it that were not fully charged while I waited for my king kongs to recharge. WOW is all I can say. It actually startled me it was that bright.
It’s set up to take 2 cells or 4 and with 2 cells it’s not quite as bright as a good SRK, so it’s about half as bright with the 2 cells vs 4. What is interesting is that with 2 cells it’s as bright on medium as it is on high, so I’m wondering now if it’s direct drive on high? I guess it would make sense and that is why I saw such a jump in output when I put heavy gauge wire on and put the fresh King Kongs in. It actually startled me when I turned it on after I added the heavy wires. So much so that I right away changed the modes down low. I was afraid I might have had a short and was in direct drive. You know how that goes sometimes you kill emitters doing that. But the modes are all there still and it’s just brighter on high.
wait a sec. i just noticed on their website that it takes 18650s . is this right? i thought for this size of light, and you said king kongs, that it would surely take 26650s.
do you think your at 6000 lumens with that small upgrade you just did?
I couldn’t wire and center all the 15 emitters like that, man it takes serious practice to be able to do that. I even have trouble to center just three emitters of my DRY.
By the way, from the picture it seems that the heatsink is black color, does it mean that the heatsink is anodized or something?
