Here are some pictures of the driver and the emitters. While I had it apart I replaced the positive and negative wires coming off the driver and I did the copper on the spring mod. Not sure if it made any difference though.
Don’t think that I haven’t considered it before. But the gas destroys the Fujic paste and interestingly it makes the stuff puff up like a marshmallow.
That light must be an absolute nightmare for some poor Chinese worker to assemble.
I would think so. I was amazed to see that only one of the fifteen emitters was off center and it wasn’t even bad. It would take me all day to wire that light and center the emitters.
Ok I take it back it is brighter with the heavy wires and copper spring mod. It didn’t seem to make that big of a difference the first time because I put 18650’s in it that were not fully charged while I waited for my king kongs to recharge. WOW is all I can say. It actually startled me it was that bright.
hmm…you are seriously making me consider buying one now. is it brighter with 4 cells vs 3 cells?
It’s set up to take 2 cells or 4 and with 2 cells it’s not quite as bright as a good SRK, so it’s about half as bright with the 2 cells vs 4. What is interesting is that with 2 cells it’s as bright on medium as it is on high, so I’m wondering now if it’s direct drive on high? I guess it would make sense and that is why I saw such a jump in output when I put heavy gauge wire on and put the fresh King Kongs in. It actually startled me when I turned it on after I added the heavy wires. So much so that I right away changed the modes down low. I was afraid I might have had a short and was in direct drive. You know how that goes sometimes you kill emitters doing that. But the modes are all there still and it’s just brighter on high.
wait a sec. i just noticed on their website that it takes 18650s . is this right? i thought for this size of light, and you said king kongs, that it would surely take 26650s.
do you think your at 6000 lumens with that small upgrade you just did?
Hm, interesting thing about fujic + gasoline, didn’t know that… and now I have to try it :bigsmile: ummmm, marshmallows 
I couldn’t wire and center all the 15 emitters like that, man it takes serious practice to be able to do that. I even have trouble to center just three emitters of my DRY.
By the way, from the picture it seems that the heatsink is black color, does it mean that the heatsink is anodized or something?
You can easily center the emitter/s:
- apply fujik
- use centering rings for all emitters
- mount the reflector
- align all emitters with tweezers until reflector sits nice and flush
- press it firmly against flat surface or just screw in the glass lens and bezel.
- wait while it hardens…
It can’t be direct drive. The LEDs look like they are all connected in series. It would take around 15 cells to to direct drive them.
How long does the Fujik takes to become hardened?
And what if I want to use something better, says AS5, but which will never hardens? I tried to use AS5 and center my LED’s in DRY but the LED’s kept moving around.
It probably depends on a temperature but in my experience after 3 hours you can still move emitter but it will hold it’s place, after 6 hours you can comfortably go on with your experimentation and after 12 hours, it’s done, hard to remove anything at this point.
If you use stuff that doesn’t harden emitter will always move.
The one in your link is Arctic Alumina, which is an adhesive type. While I was using Artic Silver 5, it has no ceramic content with it and does not posses strong bond adhesion like Arctic Alumina.
Down the bottom of the page is AS5 adhesive in a 7 gram tube.
It takes either of them.
Yep each one of these kind of lights has the head anodized. It doesn’t seem to matter. There isn’t close to enough amps running through each emitter to fry them.
It’s 3 arrays of 5 emitters. So four batteries per five emitters.