It probably depends on a temperature but in my experience after 3 hours you can still move emitter but it will hold it’s place, after 6 hours you can comfortably go on with your experimentation and after 12 hours, it’s done, hard to remove anything at this point.
If you use stuff that doesn’t harden emitter will always move.
The one in your link is Arctic Alumina, which is an adhesive type. While I was using Artic Silver 5, it has no ceramic content with it and does not posses strong bond adhesion like Arctic Alumina.
MRsDNF: bibihang: Sirius9:You can easily center the emitter/s:
- apply fujik
- use centering rings for all emitters
- mount the reflector
- align all emitters with tweezers until reflector sits nice and flush
- press it firmly against flat surface or just screw in the glass lens and bezel.
- wait while it hardens…
How long does the Fujik takes to become hardened?
And what if I want to use something better, says AS5, but which will never hardens? I tried to use AS5 and center my LED’s in DRY but the LED’s kept moving around.There are different types of AS5 available.
The one in your link is Arctic Alumina, which is an adhesive type. While I was using Artic Silver 5, it has no ceramic content with it and does not posses strong bond adhesion like Arctic Alumina.
Down the bottom of the page is AS5 adhesive in a 7 gram tube.
wait a sec. i just noticed on their website that it takes 18650s . is this right? i thought for this size of light, and you said king kongs, that it would surely take 26650s.
do you think your at 6000 lumens with that small upgrade you just did?
It takes either of them.
I couldn’t wire and center all the 15 emitters like that, man it takes serious practice to be able to do that. I even have trouble to center just three emitters of my DRY.
By the way, from the picture it seems that the heatsink is black color, does it mean that the heatsink is anodized or something?
Yep each one of these kind of lights has the head anodized. It doesn’t seem to matter. There isn’t close to enough amps running through each emitter to fry them.
It can’t be direct drive. The LEDs look like they are all connected in series. It would take around 15 cells to to direct drive them.
It’s 3 arrays of 5 emitters. So four batteries per five emitters.
so i wont work with 3x26650s? i only have 3 from my ak47 and if i went with 4 batteries, that means i would have to buy 4 new ones.
so i wont work with 3x26650s? i only have 3 from my ak47 and if i went with 4 batteries, that means i would have to buy 4 new ones.
The extension on it is for two batteries.
hmm… what if i used 4x18650’s , would it still be as bright compared to using 4x26650s?
hmm… what if i used 4x18650’s , would it still be as bright compared to using 4x26650s?
It didn’t seem to be quite as bright with the 18650’s but I didn’t put the greatests ones in. Probably some sag involved. I would imagine with a really good set of 18650’s that it would be just as bright.
Down the bottom of the page is AS5 adhesive in a 7 gram tube.
Aw, missed that, thanks for pointing out.
I want a wall of light too! Who sells these in the US?
I want a wall of light too! Who sells these in the US?
I don’t know of anyone in the US who is selling one yet.
hmm… what if i used 4x18650’s , would it still be as bright compared to using 4x26650s?
You could probably use some protected Panasonic NCR18650PD’s with no loss in current, but you would definitely lose some run time.
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-panasonic-ncr18650pd-2900mah-protected-battery-p-671.html
Might as well just get some King Kong INR’s or MNKE IMR’s in 26650 if you are going to go that route though…
http://edcplus.com/mnke-imr26650-3700mah-p-5.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-kingkong-inr26650e-raisedtop-4000mah-liion-battery-p-370.html
how many mm of thickness have this host under the leds?
with this perspective I cant see it
you have pictures like this of the host for see the thickness?
like this pictures of trj18:
I need to know the thickness and if the heat transmission is good to decide what multiled host to buy
It didn’t seem to be that thick. I sold it so I can’t say for sure how thick it is. But it seemed to be about average as far as multi-emitters go.
pfffffffff i have received this light today ……only 2mm of aluminum under the leds :Sp :Sp :Sp :Sp :Sp no way to upgrade to 150w in this host
the stock power with 2 batteries is ridicule
with 2 batteries 0.85 amp x 8.4v= 7w :Sp :Sp :Sp
with 4 batteries 3.2 amp x 16.8v =53 w :Sp
I think it don’t give more than 4500-5000 lumens with 4 fullchargued batteries
and I don’t like the projection it make one “big ring”this reflector its a crap…… I think the ak-90 and trj20 12x reflector must be much better
pfffffffffffff
wow looks like crap.
texaspyro:It can’t be direct drive. The LEDs look like they are all connected in series. It would take around 15 cells to to direct drive them.
It’s 3 arrays of 5 emitters. So four batteries per five emitters.
it have coil but it apears to be like direct drived 5s 3p
i have tested just 3 or 4 seconds with 5 batteries not fullcharged and got 6.5 amp (more tan 100w) lol
18sixfifty: texaspyro:It can’t be direct drive. The LEDs look like they are all connected in series. It would take around 15 cells to to direct drive them.
It’s 3 arrays of 5 emitters. So four batteries per five emitters.
it have coil but it apears to be like direct drived 5s 3p
i have tested just 3 or 4 seconds with 5 batteries not fullcharged and got 6.5 amp (more tan 100w) lol
Well that explains why when I put 20 gauge wire on and used ICR KK 26650’s it was so much brighter. I also de-domed the center emitters so that it had a better throw and the ring really wasn’t bad outside, at least not to my eye. When I sold it I thought it was a great light. But I have a bunch of multi-emitters so I let it go. I wonder what it would have done with 4 Moli cells or the Sony 50a batteries I have now?