That’s what was done in that BLF thread I linked, but I’m wondering if it could be used for other commonly-done things, e.g., resistor modes and adding stacked chips. I think that it’d work but not sure about how well it works when things get hot.
You guys are crazy…
I am normally a fan of resistor mods but the m6 gets unholdable hot in too short.
So before I even would think of a higher power, I would definitely try to build a handle for this.
Shame on you ohaya. Wire glue, after you just bought that nice soldering station.
Actually I have some too, that I bought from the same place on eBay. I haven’t used it yet, but I don’t think I’ll try it on resistors or 7135 chips. I can’t be sure “how” electrically conductive that stuff is. I originally bought it for installing P60 drivers into pills, but after I got my station I never needed to bother with the “glue”.
Resistors look pretty easy compared to stacking chips.
I’m going to have to take a look at the driver of my FandyFire Warrier to see if it can be “resister modded”.
I put one of my custom 9 amp SRK drivers in one of mine. It starts into the thermal management after a minute or so. An SRK takes about 3 minutes. The driver is measuring the temperature in the driver compartment, not on the flashlight body. The body was only around 10C above ambient when the thermal management kicked in. The thermal management in my driver keeps the light below around 55C. After 30 minutes or so, it has reduced the light to around 900 lumens (around 10 watts) At that point, the temperature has fully stabilized.
The hosts handle the same amount of heat and stabilize at around the same temp/light level. The M6 driver compartment heats a lot fast than the SRK (maybe because the black body radiates heat back into it better).
Am I right that the upper limit to this mod is, in effect, direct drive? After all I believe that the cells are in parallel as are the 3 emitters. This is good as there is less danger in wildly over driving the emitter.
The TR-3T6 resistor mod had 2 or 3 cells in series. If I had this light, I wouldn’t hesitate to do this mod.
[quote=dchomak]
Am I right that the upper limit to this mod is, in effect, direct drive? After all I believe that the cells are in parallel as are the 3 emitters. This is good as there is less danger in wildly over driving the emitter. The TR-3T6 resistor mod had 2 or 3 cells in series. If I had this light, I wouldn't hesitate to do this mod.
[/quote]
Most likely yes. We can not know how far the resistor mod will work until someone tries it though. Might be limits. But as can be seen, medium and low becomes higher too. About 3,6A to each emitter is already at the stupid amount of heat for this light IMO. It will be very useful in the winter though. Not only does it function as a light, but it will be a great hand warmer too! :)
4 cells in parallel will be able to kill 3 XM-L mounted on aluminium in DD, so DD is not a good idea on stock emitters. Put in XM-L2s mounted on copper and you should be able to output the amount of current you desire, if the driver will do that. But there is really not much point in going beyond the 3,5-3,6A range IMO. Not only due to vf of XM-L2s and the less great medium and low, but mainly due to heat.
I’m loving this thread. I’ve been seeing resistor modding in the forums a lot lately, but most of the chatter was between modders with electronics backgrounds. This thread is truly helping me understand what is going on. The before and after pictures by RaceR86 gave me immediate focus of the what and how, and each additional post has helped me with the why. Now I’m looking at all my lights a little differently. I can’t wait to get started.
_the_ that is sweet, and your calculations seemed good too.
Based on the resistor values, and amps, we seemed to get very similar results, so that is always nice to see. :)
Are you one of the people who have ordered AR coated lens from CNQ? Would be nice to see your lumen comparison on your modded light with AR lens vs stock.
(I know many others have those lenses coming, and some will probably share, but the more numbers we get, the better)
Edit: did you measure current with 3 x 0.1 ohm resistors?
I have a feeling you will order at least one pretty soon. Im still waiting, I want to see some numbers before I pull the trigger.
If you find the time, this day or another, please check emitter current with 3 x 0.1 resistors. Considering that you only saw a 94 lumen gain going from 2x 0.1 to 3x 0.1. Im wondering if you are not seeing much of that calculated output (3,8A) due to vf and such of the copper mounted XM-L2s.