Anodizing dyes are technically not opaque - they are translucent. Because of this, white is pretty much impossible - it will always be tinted toward the color of the base material - in this case, grey.
Yep. One other nice feature of the coating is that it will survive to whatever temperature the aluminum itself will survive. In other words, the coating will not be damaged, degraded, discolored or removed by heat until the point at which the aluminum melts.
The process of applying CeraFuse involves plasma discharge with temperature over 5000 Celsius… I wonder how much it costs to apply this to lights. How practical is this?
They're very nice people. The man to ask for is Peter Masella.
I, unfortunately, do not have time to manage a group buy - but if someone else wants to, I'm sure it wouldn't be a problem.
I never really thought about it before, but I will probably strip the anodize off of one of my lights and send it with our next batch. It would be really nice. It's just astonishing how hard this stuff is. Tough as nails doesn't even describe it because you can grind down a steel nail on aluminum coated with this stuff :)
Thats odd. It doesn’t entirely look like a wear pattern especially around the model name.
Try boiling just the body in water for 30 minutes (sealing it). If you don’t boil the head you could see if that continues to fade while the body doesn’t.
Aerospace stuff, the HTC One smart phone, Anything that needs to be very hard and very abrasion resistant. Anything that needs to be corrosion protected and will experience extreme temperatures (Anodize doesn't technically hold up past about 175C).
Well I removed anodize(with laser engravings) from few flashlight.
It is not so hard but it is sure messy…
Sandpaper grit 200 350 500 is enough + polish after that and you will get mirror like finish(I personally don’t like that)
Flashlight is “O” profile so you can sandpaper only by old gunsmith method of vertical grinding with bench vise and rubber holder which must go under flashlight.
The Solarforce S2200 is supposed to be HAIII, it’s huge with large surfaces and the feel of it is marvelous, silky satin to the touch.
So let me get it all straight in my mind. You have anodizing, Type I or II or III determined by thickness or depth. The deciding factor is really only between I and II as to one having a color bath between the anodizing tank and the sealing tank, the other bypassing this step. Is this correct? Pretty cool to know.
I do know this, the shiny anodizing is not necessarily crappy anodizing. I have an aluminum block that I made to hold an aluminum hex bar with aluminum radial arms all assembled together to mount a reflector onto a tripod. I then sent the pieces to a place in Forida called Six2 and had it all anodized purple. They’re very nice, shiny and just gorgeous. The shine comes from a high gloss polish before the anodizing. I polished it all up to a mirror finish before sending it in. The acid bath did take the shine down from mirror finish, but it’s still very nice. The base block is 3Lx3Hx2W inches and has my company name laser etched into each wide side. The hex bar is 3’ long, the radial arms accommodate a 42” reflector.
Almost correct. There is type I, IB, IC, II, IIB and III - These define (among other things) the type of acid used in the bath and the total coating thickness. Each of those types can then be of Class 1 (Non-Dyed) or Class 2 (Dyed).
For Class 2 (colored) applications, type II or type III are most common. The other types are much more difficult to dye, and can only be dyed to certain colors.
Anodize itself is not shiny or matte. The base material defines this. A polished surface will anodize shiny/glossy whereas a tumbled or bead-blasted surface will anodize matte.