wow! 2000 lumen from an xm-l t6! :bigsmile:
I ordered one of these. I couldn’t resist. Looks like it could be a lot of fun modding. What really sold me was the tail switch. Most of these soup can lights have electronic side switches. It should make it easier to convert to 2S2P or I was even thinking 3 x 18650 in series to get the most out of a driver, and using the left over unused battery tube to keep a small stash of Smarties in.
UltraFire JS-8054 2000LM T6 LED Flashlight
How do they get 2000 lumens from a T6 LED?
They do it all the time.
Divide by 3…
I got my JS-8054 today. I don’t have a clue what I’m going to do with it. It’s not on the front burner. What LED? What battery configuration? Driver? I just took a quickie look at it.
The bottom of the reflector looks like a 20mm triple board would fit right in. I was thinking XP-G2, but this reflector might really prefer an MT-G2.
I haven’t figured out how to pull the driver yet. I’ll take some current readings tonight just to see what it’s doing. I don’t know anything about the charging port. It wasn’t even mentioned in the specs. For all I know it isn’t even hooked up to anything. It would be nice to add a secondary off/on or mode switch there. That would be nice, off/on at the tail, modes in the front. It’s in the perfect spot so you can hold it by the handle and hit it with your thumb. I’ll have to ask about how to reconfigure the batteries to 2S2P or 4S.
Have a ball, tell me what you would do with this light.
Go MT-G2 with a 2S2P mod!
Seems you received this awful quick!
-Garry
I don't see this on Ebay anymore.
-Garry
Yes. I got it fast. I ordered from Here. It was well packaged also. I don’t know yet how to rewire the cells. I’ll have to chew on that for a bit.
Ah, thanks! Nice price too, although I've heard some headaches about EasyLightBuy from some users. Watching this closely as I'm very interested in that as a host.
-Garry
Looks like it would do nice with a dedomed xml2. Probably the easiest way to go 2S would be to use 8 18350's.
If you go MT-G2, I would dedome. With the dome it will likely flood out. Might be a real nice throwy flood though.
Do you have a ZY-T08 or T13 to compare the beam pattern to?
I’ve got a ZY-T08, but its already been modded to series and MT-G2.
I have a light similar to yours. I'm pretty sure that light would have a similar result as your T08 with an MT-G2. I can't really tell if your reflector is similar to mine. Check it out here and see if that helps you decide. There is a comparison to a T08 wall shot in it.
EDIT: I've been flipping between your pics and mine. Your reflector is definitely different looking at the back of it. Yours seems much more focused from the beam shot. The overall quality of your light is higher too. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this guy.
I keep having to log out to take care of various things. That light might be pretty nice with a MTG2. The easiest way would be 2S 18350's and direct drive. It would be cool if the driver you have could be used and amp'd up so that you easily could have modes.
The bottom of my reflector is totally flat. I haven’t measured it, but I’m sure you could easily drop a 20mm MCPCB right into it. It’s funny that it has that charging port (the female receptor part is in there) and there is no mention of internal charging anywhere. It didnt come with any USB cables. The more I hold it, the more I would like a switch there.
Well, I just took some readings at the emitter. I’ve never taken emitter readings before, just tailcap. I made some short leads with banana plugs on both ends, and plugged some copper alligator clips into the ends. I soldered a short piece of wire onto the pad so I had something to clamp onto.
I used the neg. emitter wire for my readings. Would I have gotten different results if I had used the positive?
I got the exact same readings with both Sanyo UR18650FM unprotected and Panasonic NCR18650A Protected
High - 2.61A
Med - 0.77A
Low - 0.24A
Do these reading sound about right. Would I have gotten different readings from the pos. emitter wire?
It’s pouring rain outside, so I took a beamshot from my balcony with my ipad. The light has a powerful hotspot, and seems to throw quite well.
Oh, I thought this thread was about darts players!
Thanks Ouchy! I don't believe you would get any different reading on the positive lead. You just need the ammeter inline with the circuit; shouldn't matter if it's on the positive side or negative side of the circuit. So it's not horribly under-driven. Any chance of popping out the driver so we can have a look-see? Perhaps someone can comment on changing sense resistors or something. Also be nice to see driver area width & depth and how well the heatsinking is.
-Garry
Agreed. Should be the same positive or negative.
The tail tends to have a lot of resistance on these types of lights. You could copper braid the springs. All the batteries connect to the switch and then to the trace that goes to the edge of tail board. You could braid from the switch to a copper or brass washer where that one mounting screw that touches the switch trace. Also, you could make sure there is good clean contact between the tail board and the body at the 4 mounting screw points.
With that charging port, you could use texaspyro's driver (when it finally comes out) and put an electronic switch there.
If you have the driver space and decide to go 2S or 3S, you could fab your own driver contact board and use this driver: