either way, still must be very impressive the amount of light in such a small package... really cant wait to get mine
RaceR86. I haven’t recieved my M6 yet, and am wondering how easy or difficult it is to remove the driver from this light? Does it need any special technique?
It’s trivial… unscrew retaining ring, remove driver.
[quote=texaspyro]
It’s trivial… unscrew retaining ring, remove driver.
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+1 Does not get better.
No damage or wear and tear to the driver. I just use the same tweezers I use for all flashlights since they can be bent out quite far. Needle nose pliers or something similar can be used too of they are narrow on the tip.
Great. This light is looking like a modders dream…even beginners. I wanted to see if something similar could be done to my Warrior, but the driver looks like a struggle to get out without damage.
Let the battle of the kings continue..
I put on some XP-G2 R5 3Cs on copper. XM-L centering rings were connected with fujick. I put some kapton tape on the back of the reflector (short circuit saftey). Solder connections were low.
The MCPCBs were a bit loose so I only checked emitter current for 5 sec. Results:
3,55A... (!!??) What, that high, on XP-G2?? That looks promising. Did not expect that.. :)
2,61A.. what, that low, that was lower than anticipated..
2,71A.. Low on that on too..
That is 8,87amps total, or an average of 2,95. NCR18650B @ 4,05V+ were used. They were not freshly charged and slightly used. I double checked the 3,55A and got the same number twice. Dont ask me...
Supfire M6 XP-G2 R5 3C on copper @ 2,95 average vs SRK XM-L2 T4 5B1 @ 3,09 on copper
Sure it out-throw the XM-L, but not by much. The XM-L light "throws" a much more wider beam, and it puts out a lot more light. To me, the XP-G2s were more of a let down in real life than in the pictures.
Supfire M6 XP-G2 R5 3C on copper @ 2,95 average vs SRK XM-L CW-dedomed @ 2,3A on copper
The de-domed XM-L at lower current (2,3A) kills the XP-G2 light at 3A. No contest...
For this particular test, I had rings and one ugly ring in the XP-G2 beam. So question is, would there be a significant improvement if the reflector sat lower?
After I took the beamshots I removed the XM-L centering rings, did another attempt at getting the soldered wires even lower. That should make the reflector sit marginally lower. Result was pretty much the same. I know I could make the reflector sit lower by using some pieces of brass plate on the MCPCBs instead of wires, or just modify the underside of the reflector. Instead of messing around with the M6 reflector I changed to SRK reflector since that was easier.
Why?
M6 reflector on the left, SRK on the right. As you can see, the place where the wires on a 16mm mcpcb sits crashed with the flat surface on the M6 reflector . Changing the stock MCPCB with 16 mm stars is no issue when using XM-Ls. But XP-Gs need to sit further inside the reflector. That is easier to achieve with the SRK reflector..
BTW, kapton tape is not a good insulator as it can easily be broken, I just sometimes use it instead of a proper insulation pad/plastic thingy when height is an issue.
Supfire M6 with SRK reflector. The reflector sits directly on the XP-G2s mcpcb now. Focus is much better and no ugly ring..
Temporary I planned on putting the M6 reflector on the SRK, but due to the MCPCBs sitting further outwards in that reflector I would have to cut about 1 mm of the MCPCBs when used in a SRK in order to get them further out to the edge.
To be continued..
PS: Warning once you think you have cycled through all the modes, you point your eyes towards the reflector in order to check something.. "poff, and there goes you vision. D%¤# SOS!
:beer:
...continued..
Supfire M6 XP-G2 R5 3C on copper with SRK reflector @ 2,95 average vs SRK XM-L2 T4 5B1 @ 3,09 on copper
Same lights, longer distance:
I think the reflector change made a huge difference in real life. Much nicer beam, no rings or anything. I think the comparison is interesting too. We are basically looking at XP-G2 vs XM-L2 in similar reflector at quite similar current.
De-domed XM-L would still win when it comes to throw, but the beam is very useful with the XP-G2. Ill keep this light like this and see how I like it once I have used it more.
I have a feeling I will stick to my beloved XM-Ls, like I do in most lights. But I have not tried de-domed XP-G2s....
To be continued.. some day...
That is some great work there, RaceR86!
Cant tell you how many times i’ve done this :weary: Always outside when comparing beams too. Than I have to wait 10min for night vision to come back lol
Only 10 min? Your lights aren’t bright enough…
Thanks JM! :)
[quote=TrakTuned]
Cant tell you how many times i’ve done this :weary: Always outside when comparing beams too. Than I have to wait 10min for night vision to come back lol
[/quote]
Glad to know Im not the only one. I have done it 3 times. Last time was pointing the light directly at my face, having the flashlight 30 cm away and full output to XP-G2s. If the wannabe-SOS started with a blink instead of a long pause, that would never happen.
Who said this flashlight hobby isn't dangerous.. And its the supposedly "rescue-mode" that is killing me/my eyes.. :p
As for having XP-G2s in this light. As can be seen by the pictures, output is certainly less. But the beam is incredibly useful for outdoor walking in the nature and such. Which can not be seen as good on the wide-angle pictures taken from a slightly elevated position.
The XP-G2 light is much better balanced in terms of what you are looking at everywhere. Basically, stuff in the distance are easier to see, not only due to slightly more throw, but also due to having less close-up flood messing up your long distance view.
Going back and forth between the XP-G2 and the XM-L light made me realize how overly bright the XM-L light is within the first meters if you are doing general walking out in the nature.
All in all, the XP-G2 does not impress much in terms of throw, it does not impress me much in terms of light output, it probably does not impress much in terms of being regulated at close to 3A, nor does it impress that much in terms of light output vs battery-time/heat. Despite all that, its quite likable due to the useful beam.
De-domed XM-Ls are more impressive though, and also have a very useful beam if you want quite good throw.
Quick report: I just shorted the remaining pad with a soldier bridge but didn’t see an improvement in current, input wise. It didn’t have in increased tailcap current at all.
Mounted 9 - 100 milliohm resistors (3 per circuit). Results are pretty awesome. Light is noticeably brighter than my neighbors Nitecore TM15. So after a little work a $35 Supfire can smoke a $200 Nitecore. I LOVE IT. After taking it apart to do the mod, I like it even more. Zip tied wires, super beefy construction, and great factory output. Hard to beat the value in the groupbuy. Pretty amazing. Thanks Pulsar.
I was planning on mounting 3 xml2-u2’s on Noctigon’s. After last nights test, I think I’m leaving it as is. Not sure what dedoming would accomplish. It throws pretty well as-is with lots of flood. Currently, I can light up the whole side of a large (300ft tall) sand dune at 100 yards.
Yes, it does heat up quickly. I ran Moli 18650’s in it for the test and my wallbuys Panasonics just showed up this afternoon. I’ll see if there’s any noticeable difference. I can try to get a current measurement when I get some time. Definitely hotter than 2.5amps/emitter!!
Im currently testing 3 XP-G2s in my M6. 2 are de-domed. :)
Compared to the non-de-domed NW XP-G2s I had in it some days ago, im seeing even lower emitter current. So maybe someone was right about de-doming raising vf..
Batteries: Fresh NCR18650B
XP-G2 R4 2,45A
XP-G2 R5 de-domed 2,44A
XP-G2 R5 de-domed 2,82A
Total amps: 7,71
2,57A average
That is quite a lot less then I had with my first XP-G2 setup.
Thank you very much for posting these RaceR86! 
This helped a lot in deciding whether to swap the XM-L2s of some of my lights to XP-G2s or not.
Hi, I have 3 R051 resistors would these be ok in the empty resister pad? I dont wanna cook my U2’s
Should not be a problem. Its pretty much the same what me and others have done.. (in your case, as long as you only use one on each empty place)
Good luck!
thanks RaceR86
loving this mod… so easy to do than stacking 7135’s
I put 2 R120s on each circuit just to be on the safe side…
oh my ! it blew my SRK away easily… the only thing I regret is not buying more of these lights.
as it is very easy to mod 
Come on Pulsar… get another round of Group Buy on these lights!! tell them it’s for black Friday
BTW if anyone crazy enough wants to trade their M6 with my SRK or 6 XML2 SRK pm me 
heck… I’ll even pay shipping on both ways just to show how much I love these light