I’ve always wondered, also does airtightness have any effect on it?
Wikipedia
Edit: [note 1] in the second line reads, with a mouse hover
This alkali particularly attacks aluminium, a common material for flashlights, which can be damaged by leaking alkaline batteries.
I experience two times duracell leaked, one in storage and other inside Terralux 300.
almost unable to get the battery out as it sticked so persistently.
I’m not really sure why it leaked but maybe the expiration time has something to do. in my case it was coming close (about a year due). usually alkaline cell have 5 years storage time since production so I consider 1 year left is close already.
you have answered my question, thanks
i clicked on the flashlight entry and it mentions capacitors being used for energy storage, i’ll start a thread on it
Good thread question.
I have wondered the same. Having had at least a half dozen or more lights slightly damaged, or even destroyed by alkaline leaks, I am now freaking out. The few lights I still may run on an alkaline battery, I seem to try and check them every couple weeks. I am now afraid to run an alkaline in any of my decent lights of any kind.
What causes it? The constant high or low temps experienced for example in an automobile? The age of the cell? Multiple cell lights only?
I seem to never have a problem in a TV remote (or smoke detector) for some reason.
its explained very well in the link above, i would remove them from any flashlight or device not in constant use
I have a 3D Maglite I’ve been trying unsuccessfully to open after the batteries leaked inside…
You can try pouring in some vinegar to help dissolve the mess.
Pour it in where? I cant get it open! I could drill a hole I guess.
The alkaline cell uses the shell — zinc metal — as part of the chemistry. It’s supposed to be thick enough it doesn’t get eaten away from the inside enough to leak — in single use. Ha. Haha. hahahahahhaaha
http://www.corrosionist.com/clean_alkaline_battery_corrosion.htm
I’d say it’s poor sealing right from the factory since most never have a problem under the exact same conditions. Capacitors leak too but that might be due to heat/pressure. I dunno, just guessing.
I think the main problem is hydrogen gas build up rupturing the casing or damaging a seal.
Ahh, do you have a vice or something to wrench it open (you can put leather around it to help prevent scratches)? I used vinegar in my Fluke volt pen as two cells were corroded so much they were stuck inside. It works now after some cleaning and letting it dry out.
That stuff ate pieces of my Stanley 3 in 1 Tripod. All three lights had a crust holding the batteries tight. Fortunately, the metal parts were SS which cleaned up easily with a toothbrush and Liquid Wrench (it’s what I had). I put it back together with the residual oil left behind for good measure.
That’s good. There was a copper strip in my volt pen that needed cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. It really eats through aluminium though. Here’s my ruined Maglite:
The spring and nylon bulb holder were unaffected.
I stopped using Alkalines a few years ago. Now it’s just for the few devices where NiMh won’t work, and if I’m worried about someone throwing them away, like the kids. The emergency kits in the vehicles even have LSD or lithium primary batteries in them now.
I only use alkalines in devises that consume batteries quickly enough to change them out often. Thought that light would get used more. :~
I used to do that until I had a few leak and ruin my devices. Now those devices get Eneloops.
That is a really stark reminder that either extremes of the PH scale are always corrosive!
Most smoke detectors use 9v. They’re a true “battery” of 6 alkalines. Maybe higher standards? A leaky cell wouldn’t show any signs immediately because of the housing which also offers some protection to the device. Our TV remote always gets new cells before old ones start there destruction.