Got my light today (thanks to Relic38 for giving me a few answers about this light before I ordered it).
I seriously LOLed when this happend, it was like dejavu. I tried to lube the O-ring, did not work. Its actually the same O-ring on the body that is on the front between reflector and lens. I just removed the O-ring on the body, I will replace it.
The reflector is exactly the same size/look as the reflector in my Fandyfire Rook.
Emitter was partially attached with some thermal silicone/glue or something. You can see it on the upper part of the MCPCB. All the other white stuff was thermal paste.
The thermal silicone came from the top of the switch, which is the oval hole in the mcpcb. I tried to removed some of it.
The driver circuit have good space on the sides for a flat screwdriver.
It was stuck, but I got it out quickly on the first try despite that there was some silicone on it that attached it to the body. My experience with various SRKs might have helped. Or maybe I was just lucky that they did not use too much silicone.
This is how the empty pill looks from above. If you have issues getting the driver out, giving it a push from the switch might help,preferably combined with trying to drag it out with a screwdriver.
I measured emitter current to be:
0,21A, low
1,01, medium
2,38, high
These numbers seems to be higher than the ones posted by Relic38. I used a Soshine 26650 @ 4,05V. I can not say if the difference are due to DMM, or due to slight differences in components on the driver circuit. For most people, stock output was pretty decent on my unit.
I tried playing with the R010 resistor, but I probably broke something. Output is now close to nothing. I basically put a wire over the resistor. 0:) I have no clue if that resistor actually were limiting current. Probably should have asked here first. :p Its not an issue though.. I have a new DrJones driver who is in need of a home. :) Changing the driver was my intention from the day I ordered it.
As for stock UI, its miles better than the UI in say, the Supfire M6 IMO. Having hidden strobe and SOS in its own group is nice. UI is far from great though. I could probably live with it if it had more "oomph" on high! ;)
As a mod host. I think its good. It seems like heat transfer to the body is great. MCPCB screws down. It can fit a 20mm copper star. Reflector does not easily crash in the emitter wires (this happens on some lights when you go from 25+mm MCPCBs to 20mm) As for Sinkpad being less tall than the stock MCPCB by about 0,35-0,38mm. I dont think that is an issue. Because the reflector can go all the way down to the pill when there is no MCPCB in there. 0,35mm is close to nothing. In worst case, add on extra O-ring on the front, which was included. But I doubt that is necessary. A Noctigon is less tall compared to a Noctigon. Sinkpad probably preferred due to being more similar in hight with the stock mcpcb.
The driver compartment is also decent sized.
I really like the size and feel of the light. Anodizing seems great and it came with an AR lens.
That is my first impression of the light. Hopefully some will appreciate it and also find the information about modding useful. :)
My light came from Lightscastle. This was basically my winning price from the build from scratch contest! So thanks to them, Old-Lumens, and everybody.. :)
I got myself a nice host! :)