Manafont "Triple T6 Cree Circuit Board Driver" - Macros

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
23

My board has the three same resistors in the same places as your ImA4Wheelr except they are all the same physical size on mine. Also there is a R2 on the bottom contact board that has 103 on it. I just got in .12 ohm resistors. Where should I add them to bump power?

Thanks for starting this dthrckt

24

you can solder them directly on top of the existing resistors or in place of them, depending on what level of resistance you are shooting for.

I second that. Thank you for starting this thread dthrckt.

25

Tried to get a little more info off the driver this morning.

  • The adhesive residue is fairly easy to remove with a pick. It is flexible, peels and crumbles. This is very good news from a modding stand point.
  • The round board is labeled, “TR-0159C2”.
  • The MCU has 10 legs and appears to have this code on it, “TR35”. Difficult to read due to adhesive residue. I’ll take another look at it tonight. It would be nice to identify this chip to see if we can program it.
26

I tried last night and again this morning. I can’t make out the labeling on the mcu. I would be nice to be able to reprogram this driver since it is low cost and easy to modify it’s power output.

27

I had this pic to refer to, which shows .100, .250, and I assumed a safe .250 for the underneath mystery resistor:

The more recent picture from 4wheeler shows .100, .200, .250 on a slightly different driver.
Can you show me where you got your values from? :~

28

I just received this driver and there is no resistor on R5, just 2 blank pads. Should I be concerned?

29

What does the the label say on the one resister you do have?

EDIT: Does it appear that there is more than one resistor stacked?

30

next to r5 is r7, it has a single R050

31

That is pretty much in line with the cummulative resistance of the 3 resisters (R250,R200,R100) that are normally in place. Should get you around to 4.5 amps of current.

32

I have this flash light, I use it to help me to work over night security guard job, but it only work for me about four nights and then goes out. I found the emitters are all OK working, but only the driver circuit board is not good: at some time working but some time don’t work.
New picture of TR—159D, I use 200X USB microscopes to take this picture, but the IC no# I still can not be seen. Does any body who is super can tell me the actual IC no. so that I can retrieve the whole schematic of this small device?
If I can get the whole schematic and then I will be possible to find out the problem of it.
Any help, please tell me at my email address: yuming@sbcglobal.net or post it here.
Please help me upload this picture, thank you. Sorry! this website did not allow copy & paste.
Thank you A1tvyu
08-25-2013

33

Does the light work if you take off the tail cap and connect the battery to the non-anodized part of the flashlight tube. I ask because tail switches are usually the most common problem.

Upload your picture to an image host like Google's Picasa. Then right click on the image and select "Copy image location". Then here in BLF, click on the icon that looks like a picture and then past the web address you just copied.

34

Further data about the driver board:
I am surely it is not the tail cap switch gets problem, because at the time it did not work, I tried every way but it did not work, until I take it out from the board cabinet, I can touch and measure the battery contact terminal. It is zero ohm, but when I de-solder it from the board cabinet, measure it again, but can not find out the short point, I reassemble it and use PVC tape to wrap up the vertical board so that make it can not touch the cabinet metal but it only work for me at two more nights and get back the problem. I think it is the bad solder make it like that or the double layer circuit board the running through connection no good. If I can have the IC No# and then I can look it up from IC manufacturer website to find out its standard schematic and then I can join up the whole circuit.
The center spring give high press onto the board would make the circuit board bend and then make the circuit connection no good.
It should put one support PC board to hole the spring and then connect the Plus sign terminal by a wiring to the circuit board would be better.
Please tell me the clear step of upload picture. Thank you

A1tvyu
08-25-2013

35

Anyone tried this driver in combination with a single XM-L2 on copper? (Do not blow one up for my sake)

What kind of current can be seen with 2 batteries in series.

36

See this thread for how to post pictures.

-Garry

37

I have considered this, but what single led hosts have a 26x26mm driver cavity?

38

Not sure, just trying to figure out what drivers that will output a serious amount of amps to an XM-L2. J)

39

RaceR86 wrote:

Anyone tried this driver in combination with a single XM-L2 on copper? (Do not blow one up for my sake)

What kind of current can be seen with 2 batteries in series.

I did in a Torchlite host. Worked good. Estimated that it delivered 4.5amps based on tail current. I've been wanting to revisit it and up the current. Probably down the road a bit though. I'll find the link and post it here in an edit.

EDIT: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/13941?page=11#comment-349501

40

Sounds about right when I think about it.

Werner shared some results here. 4,5A stock, then modded to 6,24A.

bdiddle pushed it even further here.

So it will probably work quite nicely with single XM-L2.

41

Can the Manafont version of this driver drive an MT-G2? What kind of max amps to the MT-G2 are expected?

-Garry

42

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19371#comment-411082

(read post below too, comfychair did not seem to get the same results)

Max amps? Someone will have to try and find it out to be certain. I have a feeling it will handle an MT-G2 quite nicely after a little resistor mod too.