By the way TomE, which resistor in the BTU driver did you put a jumper wire on? Is it the sens resistor which connects to the negative lead wire?
Not the BTU driver - never got the resistor mod working on that driver, gave up - PilotPtk posted it, but I couldn't reproduce his result. I'm using the IOS driver, this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-45a-ouput-55126v-p-543.html, but the versions I have are 3.5A - Hank updated these to 4.5A by resistor mods. You can clearly identify the current limiting resistors because they are 2 joined next to each other, maybe even stacked. The 5A LCK-LED driver is identical, though I didn't try one on a Shocker yet.
I’ll stick to the stock BTU driver then. The 3 XM-L2 T6 1Bs are now soaking in gasoline. I can’t wait to see the resulting lux readings.
Thanx again TomE! 
Those are some insane numbers, competitive to 60-85w HID in both lumen and throw. Who still want a HID NOW?
I did not fond the larger form factor of shocker. But I should think about it again……
Just finished modding my BTU Shocker! :bigsmile:
I dedomed its three XM-L2 T6 1Bs then re-installed it back to the shocker. I replaced its AWG 22 silicon wires with a new set of the same wires because the silicon protection of the lead wires also dissolved in gasoline. :~
I used the same stock BTU Shocker driver which gives a tail cap reading of 3.35 Amps at 12.04 volts. I then turned the flashlight on and TomE was right - the same flowery spill with a little tighter hot spot. The only difference is that the beam is already neutral white and 3 dark spots are still eminent in the hotspot at 2 meters. Lux readings at 3 meters might not give good results. :~
I took the lux reading at 6 meters and the result was 5341 lux which is equal to 192 KCD at 1 meter, a 44% increase over the 133 KCD stock readings. 
My Shocker now beats my modified T-08 in throw and I’m loving this light even more. Thank you very much for the tips TomE! 
Hhmm, 3 dark spots at 2 meters. Hhmm. Didn't notice that - I'll re-check this evening. Tailcap amps remained the same? I'm thinking you should have gotten double the kcd, or close to double, because I'm thinking that's what I'm seeing, but my amps are way higher, and using U2's.
Its not that dark, just not as bright as the edges. Its more like 3 doughnuts that did not converge fully yet.
I did not get the tail cap readings again because I did not do anything to the BTU driver. I just assumed that its the same 3.35 Amps like when the LEDs were not yet dedomed. :~
Or am I missing something? Does dedoming the LEDs change the tail cap current? :~
Tom actually you have one more thing that can experiment with the BTU Shocker…
Triple XP-G2 de-domed, driven at 4.5A.
With the trade-off of lumens, not sure if we can see over 600kcd from there.
now we gotta add this to the mix in the throw competition against vinh’s tn31 and k40’s!
…i do have a vinh k40 and tom shocker ordered though…hehe
Hi Tom, do you care to take some nice outdoor beamshots for the ultimate shocker? Even better if you can compare it to other throwers.
Ummm, gotta get it shipped out, probably tonight package it up, and got softball at 6pm, and, I'm not really set up so good for outdoor shots - didn't get around to mounting lights reliably, and no decent place to go I know of, small backyard, fences everywhere - I'd shock the neighbors for sure 
at the house.
I’m really wishing I would have nabbed one of those K40’s…… really starting to regret not doing it especially now that a certain someone has something they are mailing me soon…. 0:) I have a few good spots for some beam shots but nothing even remotely close for comparison other than a stock BTU….
That is a pity…
Maybe the lucky guy who will get this light can do some beam shots.
What a waste if no shots! 
I'm looking at my K40 now. Can't believe it, but they broke off one of the screws to hold down the PCMCB and used epoxy to cover it up, so on one side, a screw secures it down, on the other side, epoxy was used just to cover the hole. I'm gonna pull the emitter off and reflow it - looks like it's not straight, so maybe it was a bad reflow as well, yikes... Probably will have to re-tap the hole - cleared it out by drilling out the pices, tried the other screw and it won't tighten up - I know the bit I used was smaller than the hole, but who knows - maybe they used a bigger screw and that's why it broke.
Dang, that’s messed up. Did you a photo of it? Might be able to get them to replace the light if you can get the screw issue worked out.
I thought grasshopper in Malay or Indonesian is belalang. :~
Tom, that’s really messed up for a torch of that $$$. That is something one would expect from a cheapo brand/model but certainly not something in that range.
That is exactly what I was thinking when I read it as I have done that exact thing (not with a torch have you) a couple times and not realized it until the “oh s**t” moment. Got to love the “what do we do now?…. ahh screw it, just glue it…. not like anyone will open this thing up anyhow!”
Yes, got photos -- ohh, got her all open now!! The heat gun did the trick. Should start another thread... Lot of pics on the tear down.
And all this time I was thinking that Sup Beam is a level higher than the other Chinese manufacturers when it comes to QC. :~
HHmm, don't think so... New thread here on the K40 tear down with pics: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20905