Attention! Solution for most of those next mode memory drivers!

any ideas how to remove the next mode memory from this driver? :

Very similar (if not identical) to the driver in the SkyEye F13. See this post from relic38. Place said resistor over said capacitor.

-Garry

yeap its the same ,thank you.

and when i connected the 2 dots in the 0R i now have a 5 mode driver.

Help needed for this driver. :)

driver fixed now,i hate memory. (its a bit pain in the ass to solder some small resistors)
thanks again garry.

Could you please specify the mode change?

It adds medium and strobe

Which modes were there before?
Thanks for the information, never read that here…so if anyone has a link I would be happy.

I have seen this some times on drivers but never knew that there is a possible function.

I just made this:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20735#comment-453016

Thanks for clarification, I have some 5 mode sk98 driver flying around in my parts box. I will look later if it had the 0R connected on stock…

as racer did above.very easy mod don’t need any spare parts.

I do not understand. Why not just remove the capacitor?

If you remove capacitor you will only have one mode, first mode that is programmed (in most cases MAX).

Because without capacitor the memory will erase in zero time. You will never be able to change mode. Like a single mode only.

I made some single mode but decided against the removing because i wanted the option to go to other mods, this was made with 22k resistor.
So I can borrow it to anyone all they see is high but with a very short quarter press I am able to use all 4 other modes if needed…

Can someone link to a schematic of a driver that uses a cap to make the memory work? I am not understanding its implementation.

There is a backup capacitor, that is recharged at every startup, connected to the power pin. It uses brownout detection that is implemented in microcontroller and at each restart it checks for brownout flag (if the mcu restarted itself due to low power voltage/mode change/ or if it was turned off for a longer time). If you don’t add that resistor it stays powered in brownout mode thus it changes the mode at startup.

Correct me if I’m wrong :slight_smile:

Hey everyone, I would just like to share a discovery I made. Maybe this is already known, but I haven’t come across it on the forum yet.

Instead of soldering a resistor to short the capacitor, I just used a light pencil to draw a faint line between the 2 capacitor terminals. Result: Modes are preserved, resets back to high in 2 seconds. Easier than soldering tiny components.

The only danger that might occur with this is you might shade too much causing the capacitor to discharge too quickly making it one mode only? Hasn’t happened to me yet, so maybe that’s just me thinking too much :stuck_out_tongue:

Nice find! Good sharing. I expected this to work but never actually did it. Graphite line would conduct electricity in a few tens kOhm territory so IMO should be ok to do this. The lowest resistor I ever used was 47k I believe, so far no problem with that.

My idea (which I never tried) was graphite + PVA glue. Pencil trace by itself is not too reliable, which the glue should help with. Since you did the pencil line, I’m gonna try this on a light + glue on top, I still have two UF S5 I haven’t mod to bleed memory.

Will update my findings too. :slight_smile:

Why should a pencil trace not be reliable?
What are you expecting to happen with it?