I stopped using Alkalines a few years ago. Now it’s just for the few devices where NiMh won’t work, and if I’m worried about someone throwing them away, like the kids. The emergency kits in the vehicles even have LSD or lithium primary batteries in them now.
Most smoke detectors use 9v. They’re a true “battery” of 6 alkalines. Maybe higher standards? A leaky cell wouldn’t show any signs immediately because of the housing which also offers some protection to the device. Our TV remote always gets new cells before old ones start there destruction.
No - to remove the switch assembly you need to prise off the switch cover and insert a 5/64" hex key into the hole in the middle of the switch assembly and unscrew the pointy screw that cuts through the internal anodising to make contact with the aluminium body. I believe more recent Mags use a Torx screw which would be around TX5 or thereabouts - I've never seen one so don't know. Then there's a C ring retaining clip in front of the switch assembly that needs circlip pliers to release. Then you can pull out the switch assembly. Then have at it with vinegar/lemon juice whatever mild acid you have knocking around. It's best not to use stronger acids as the reaction with the strongly alkaline crap could be violent.
If the sun comes out from behind the rain and fog we have here just now, I'll do pics today.
Oops, my memory was at fault. A fine flatheaded screwdriver is what you want to shift the retaining ring - I'm sure the older ones needed circlip pliers but my memory may be at fault here.
In this pic you can see the retaining ring - it is the lighter coloured ring at the base of the bulb tower. I used this old pic as my cameras have gone into hiding so the pic of the ends where you can remove it was taken with a nasty phone cam of stupidly high resolution and equally stupidly high over-sharpening and noise.
You can see the notches in the ends of the ring here. They're at about 2-3 o'clock. Just get a small flathead screwdriver in there and lever it out of the groove. If it won't shift try washing it out with well hot water, dry it and shoot some WD40 in there then shake it out after a minute or two.
I read on another forum that the guy gave up on alkylines for remotes and things like that and just uses plain ol carbon ones. They might not last as long but they don’t leak. I’m going to try that.
Back in the day, I needed one of those teenytiny 12V batteries (A23) for my car’s remote. Rat Shack sold the C-Zn ones for 89¢ each, and they lasted for years.
Then, those were discontinued, and they only sold the hateful little alkaleak versions for almost 3bux a pop… which only lasted a year at best.
If anyone even made C-Zn AA/AAA cells anymore, I’d buy ’em by the box for clocks, remotes, small instruments, etc.