I got my JS-8054 today. I don’t have a clue what I’m going to do with it. It’s not on the front burner. What LED? What battery configuration? Driver? I just took a quickie look at it.
The bottom of the reflector looks like a 20mm triple board would fit right in. I was thinking XP-G2, but this reflector might really prefer an MT-G2.
I haven’t figured out how to pull the driver yet. I’ll take some current readings tonight just to see what it’s doing. I don’t know anything about the charging port. It wasn’t even mentioned in the specs. For all I know it isn’t even hooked up to anything. It would be nice to add a secondary off/on or mode switch there. That would be nice, off/on at the tail, modes in the front. It’s in the perfect spot so you can hold it by the handle and hit it with your thumb. I’ll have to ask about how to reconfigure the batteries to 2S2P or 4S.
Have a ball, tell me what you would do with this light.
Ah, thanks! Nice price too, although I've heard some headaches about EasyLightBuy from some users. Watching this closely as I'm very interested in that as a host.
I have a light similar to yours. I'm pretty sure that light would have a similar result as your T08 with an MT-G2. I can't really tell if your reflector is similar to mine. Check it out here and see if that helps you decide. There is a comparison to a T08 wall shot in it.
EDIT: I've been flipping between your pics and mine. Your reflector is definitely different looking at the back of it. Yours seems much more focused from the beam shot. The overall quality of your light is higher too. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this guy.
I keep having to log out to take care of various things. That light might be pretty nice with a MTG2. The easiest way would be 2S 18350's and direct drive. It would be cool if the driver you have could be used and amp'd up so that you easily could have modes.
The bottom of my reflector is totally flat. I haven’t measured it, but I’m sure you could easily drop a 20mm MCPCB right into it. It’s funny that it has that charging port (the female receptor part is in there) and there is no mention of internal charging anywhere. It didnt come with any USB cables. The more I hold it, the more I would like a switch there.
Well, I just took some readings at the emitter. I’ve never taken emitter readings before, just tailcap. I made some short leads with banana plugs on both ends, and plugged some copper alligator clips into the ends. I soldered a short piece of wire onto the pad so I had something to clamp onto.
I used the neg. emitter wire for my readings. Would I have gotten different results if I had used the positive?
I got the exact same readings with both Sanyo UR18650FM unprotected and Panasonic NCR18650A Protected
High - 2.61A
Med - 0.77A
Low - 0.24A
Do these reading sound about right. Would I have gotten different readings from the pos. emitter wire?
It’s pouring rain outside, so I took a beamshot from my balcony with my ipad. The light has a powerful hotspot, and seems to throw quite well.
Thanks Ouchy! I don't believe you would get any different reading on the positive lead. You just need the ammeter inline with the circuit; shouldn't matter if it's on the positive side or negative side of the circuit. So it's not horribly under-driven. Any chance of popping out the driver so we can have a look-see? Perhaps someone can comment on changing sense resistors or something. Also be nice to see driver area width & depth and how well the heatsinking is.
The tail tends to have a lot of resistance on these types of lights. You could copper braid the springs. All the batteries connect to the switch and then to the trace that goes to the edge of tail board. You could braid from the switch to a copper or brass washer where that one mounting screw that touches the switch trace. Also, you could make sure there is good clean contact between the tail board and the body at the 4 mounting screw points.
With that charging port, you could use texaspyro's driver (when it finally comes out) and put an electronic switch there.
If you have the driver space and decide to go 2S or 3S, you could fab your own driver contact board and use this driver:
I’m not really sure how to go about pulling this driver. I suppose its press fit. I wonder if they glued it. I just don’t want to mangle it up trying to get it out using the wrong technique.
I’m going to take emitter readings from the pos. tonight, just so I can see with my own eyes.
I just thought I’d mention. If you turn it off and wait for a long five seconds, it will always come back on in high. Under five seconds, and you get next mode.
I’m wondering if this driver could be persuaded to fit? And how it’d do with an xp-g2 or xm-l2.
Then I got to wondering about this driver again, and if it really is a boost driver for 3 xm-l in series instead of parallel? and if so, would it equally be able to boost to six volts or so to drive an mt-g2 off four parallel cells?
Well I took my readings from the Pos. LED wire, and confirmed to myself that they both give identical readings. I just had to do it, or I would forever be wondering.
Does anyone know how I should get this driver out. There was a tiny dab of something on the outer in unanodized part of the pill. It looked like silicone. I’m wondering if its glued in.
That beam looks real nice. The reflector sounds bigger than a HD2010/SS T08/T13, etc., not sure if as wide as a TN31 though. To me, this looks exactly like a 7G9. The 7G9 is 3 cell, had the driver glued. An easy mod is de-domed XM-L2 U2, use the driver as a contact board and sandwich a Nanjg type with the 7135's piled to the ceiling. I'd try to go over 5 amps for sure with 4 parallel cells and the size/weight of this light. On the 7G9's, we drill out the driver board - drill a hole between outer and inner rings, making a pry hole. I wouldn't mind trashing a classic 5 mode driver anyway. vinh did my original 7G9 mod and he probably drilled the hole first, then cut down the driver board - 2 straight cuts on each side so you has lots of access space and didn't effect the + rings or neg. return. I would speculate you could make it a 250-325 kcd thrower. Maybe there's better options for a driver, like a buck and using 18350's like you are saying, but you want at least 5 amps.
I thought about drilling a small hole for prying, but I don’t know what’s underneath. I’d like to keep it functioning until I can have a look at it. I haven’t really tried too hard though. I should probably remove the led and see if I can poke downward.
I need some basic wiring diagrams for wiring 2S2P with the switch. Maybe even 4S.
From there I can figure out how I’m going to do it.
I have the first one, it WILL NOT run a MTG2 with any combo of cells (it is very nice though, completely stepless dimming, no blinky modes, just press & hold to ramp up or down). Don't know about the second one.
