4x18650 70mm thrower-UltraFire JS-8054

Oh, I thought this thread was about darts players!

Thanks Ouchy! I don't believe you would get any different reading on the positive lead. You just need the ammeter inline with the circuit; shouldn't matter if it's on the positive side or negative side of the circuit. So it's not horribly under-driven. Any chance of popping out the driver so we can have a look-see? Perhaps someone can comment on changing sense resistors or something. Also be nice to see driver area width & depth and how well the heatsinking is.

-Garry

Agreed. Should be the same positive or negative.

The tail tends to have a lot of resistance on these types of lights. You could copper braid the springs. All the batteries connect to the switch and then to the trace that goes to the edge of tail board. You could braid from the switch to a copper or brass washer where that one mounting screw that touches the switch trace. Also, you could make sure there is good clean contact between the tail board and the body at the 4 mounting screw points.

With that charging port, you could use texaspyro's driver (when it finally comes out) and put an electronic switch there.

If you have the driver space and decide to go 2S or 3S, you could fab your own driver contact board and use this driver:

I’m not really sure how to go about pulling this driver. I suppose its press fit. I wonder if they glued it. I just don’t want to mangle it up trying to get it out using the wrong technique.
I’m going to take emitter readings from the pos. tonight, just so I can see with my own eyes.
I just thought I’d mention. If you turn it off and wait for a long five seconds, it will always come back on in high. Under five seconds, and you get next mode.

I’m wondering if this driver could be persuaded to fit? And how it’d do with an xp-g2 or xm-l2.

Then I got to wondering about this driver again, and if it really is a boost driver for 3 xm-l in series instead of parallel? and if so, would it equally be able to boost to six volts or so to drive an mt-g2 off four parallel cells?

Well I took my readings from the Pos. LED wire, and confirmed to myself that they both give identical readings. I just had to do it, or I would forever be wondering.

Does anyone know how I should get this driver out. There was a tiny dab of something on the outer in unanodized part of the pill. It looked like silicone. I’m wondering if its glued in.

That beam looks real nice. The reflector sounds bigger than a HD2010/SS T08/T13, etc., not sure if as wide as a TN31 though. To me, this looks exactly like a 7G9. The 7G9 is 3 cell, had the driver glued. An easy mod is de-domed XM-L2 U2, use the driver as a contact board and sandwich a Nanjg type with the 7135's piled to the ceiling. I'd try to go over 5 amps for sure with 4 parallel cells and the size/weight of this light. On the 7G9's, we drill out the driver board - drill a hole between outer and inner rings, making a pry hole. I wouldn't mind trashing a classic 5 mode driver anyway. vinh did my original 7G9 mod and he probably drilled the hole first, then cut down the driver board - 2 straight cuts on each side so you has lots of access space and didn't effect the + rings or neg. return. I would speculate you could make it a 250-325 kcd thrower. Maybe there's better options for a driver, like a buck and using 18350's like you are saying, but you want at least 5 amps.

I thought about drilling a small hole for prying, but I don’t know what’s underneath. I’d like to keep it functioning until I can have a look at it. I haven’t really tried too hard though. I should probably remove the led and see if I can poke downward.

I need some basic wiring diagrams for wiring 2S2P with the switch. Maybe even 4S.
From there I can figure out how I’m going to do it.

I have the first one, it WILL NOT run a MTG2 with any combo of cells (it is very nice though, completely stepless dimming, no blinky modes, just press & hold to ramp up or down). Don't know about the second one.

I didn’t expect the first to run an mt-g2 but I can see it’d be awesome in this light.
I’m going to order the second for my supfire m6 so I guess I get to be the guinea pig, I’ll click buy it now tomorrow. …

I want to get a look at this driver before I make any decisions. I’ve been looking and wondering about both these drivers for a while. I wonder how hard the electronic ramping switch would be to incorporate.
I’m going to try RaceR86s resistor mod on my M6 first. I got my resistors in the mail yesterday.

Do the handle screws get Loctited?

Ouchyfoot wrote:

I thought about drilling a small hole for prying, but I don’t know what’s underneath. I’d like to keep it functioning until I can have a look at it. I haven’t really tried too hard though. I should probably remove the led and see if I can poke downward.

Yeah, your idea in the last sentence above is definitely the way to go. Does the charger port cover come off? If it does, you can also push the driver out that way. You may want to first heat up the head a little so it expands and also so the glue (if any) softens.

Cool Gords. Sounds like it will be an awesome light.

Reflector looks identical to the UltraFire 1226, if so it does indeed work nice with MTG2. It's ~65mm OD at the front, and has a step-down in the flat area around the emitter hole?

I think the reflector is different. I think the reflector in this light will be much better than the 1216 reflector.

Post 11:

1216 Reflector:

Looks the same to me, at least the part that's visible in the first pic.

Ill pull the reflector and post some pics after work today.

If you have something thin and stiff you could maybe push it out through the emitter wire hole. Make sure to put the pressure at the edge of the driver.

(You could drill one of the emitter wire holes to become a bit large in order to do it. Then use a flat screwdriver or something.)

If there is no glue-stuff on the driver. You could probably just take a thin flat screwdriver, set it between the edge of the driver circuit and the flashlight (on one of those places where there is a bit edge), give the screwdriver a little "bonk" and pry it out.. There is a little risk of damage to the edge of the board, but if done correctly, it will probably go out fine. :) Unless its glued it some way that is...

The "make a pry edge/hole technique" should be a safe solution, but it is a bit more time consuming. Drill, or use a little cutting plate just at the edge of the board, or into the flashlight. Then use a flat screwdriver to pry it out.

Im usually able to pry the driver out.

Whatever technique, good luck! :)

It's hard to tell from the picture, but the bottom of the reflector looks flat. Look how big of an emitter base was used and how far out they have the wire contact pads. The 1216 has a normal 20 mm base with plenty of room for the wires to stick up.

The inside of the reflectors look very different to me. The beam shots also look very different.