I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)

Wow, very attractive numbers!

I’m surprised the light doesn’t get too hot. :slight_smile:

It gets freak'n hot for sure, but it's a big heavy head - biggest, heaviest around...

My 6.5A ish K40 seems to be getting hotter quicker than the modded BTU. :smiley:

So the XM-L2 U2 1As from IOS has better tint when de-domed? I’m currently using XM-L2 T6 1Bs on my Shocker, K40 & T08 and I’m not sure whether to upgrade to XM-L2 U2 1As or XM-L2 U2 1Cs from IOS.

Does JOE’s Shocker have the doughnut beams at 2 to 3 meters. I had that problem before when my reflector was not properly seated.

Mine does too. I think it because the BTU has a a lot more mass of metal to ‘absorb’ the heat.

Yes -definitely visible at 2-3 meters and the center beam looks ugly even out at 5-7 meters. Couple of weird things on vinh's mod: he replaced the carrier springs but didn't copper braid them - resulting amps was low - don't think the spring replacements helped at all. When I took the same cells, moved them into a copper braided Shocker carrier, amps went way up. Also, he used thermal epoxy under the stars that looks like Fujik, and they all moved and left a trail of epoxy to the left of each star -- same thing I see in a factort Shocker. It seems to be from tightening the bezel, the reflector spins along with the glass and o-ring.

I agree, de-doming 1C tints and such usually end up quite crappy, yellowish, sometimes greenish.

1A is a much better starting point IMO

Yes - 1A's seem to come out well de-domed. I've been de-doming TN31's and my K40, but I believe they come with 1C's, so they do come out a bit yellow. With the de-domed 1C Shocker, it 's really dark yellow though. I could look at the exposed LED and the phoshor appears to be a darker yellow that a 1A, and only other time I noticed that is on a de-domed T6 3C, so I'm not so certain it's 1C's as vinh said they were. He buys the emitters from IS and they offer both U2 1C's and T6 3C's bare - no 1A's unfortunately. IOS has 1A's, but not bare, but his pre-mounted on Noctigons are a lot cheaper that IS's bare emitters.

With domes, the warm T3's and T4's beams look a lot better - don't notice any yellow at all, but I see yellow in 1C's and 3C's.... weird

I tightened the reflector retaining screw real good first before tightening the bezel to prevent or minimize the twisting of the reflector. Excess twisting of the reflector also cuts the silicon skin of the lead wires.

So I guess I’ll stay away from 1Cs and 3Cs then. I’ll get the 1As on Noctigon from IOS. Thank you RaceR86 & TomE! :slight_smile:

Oh - vinh's light had no screw in it, it was totally gone! Fortunately I found one that fits, just got to cut it down. But yes, I'm doing the same thing - tightening it up good. I got in a Shocker from the factory that had the stars twisted around so bad, one partially covered the wire hole and cut the silicon on one of the wires. The light worked but had lower output than expected and as I got from the others.

Its exactly the same when I opened my Shocker - streak of fujik from the stars because of the twisting and a lead wire with cut silicon. I think its the lead wires coming out of that hole from the pill that stopped the reflector from twisting further.

I guess the people assembling the Shocker did not care much on the lead wires shorting with the pill. :frowning:

Damn, I already got three XM-L2 U2 1C on Noctigon around… :~

:bigsmile:

I’m currently waiting on another torch before doing some beam shots with the BTU Tom was kinda enough to do up for me but today I decides to do some measurements with my cheapo MS1010 light meter to see if it and the light were in the same ballpark as to what Tom observed. So down into the basement in my building I went with measuring tape in hand to mark out a 5meter and 15 meter (could have gone out to almost 50 meters down there) line to measure from. I took down three lights with me:

XIN TD V3 U3 with Samsung 20R
5meter:
low 71 x 25 = 1775kcd
med 359 x 25 = 8975kcd
high 1042 x 25 =26050kcd

Stock BTU with dry driver, U2, Samsung 20Q’s
5 meters:
low 259 x 25 = 6475kcd
med 1303 x 25 = 32575kcd
high 3010 x 25 = 75250kcd
turbo 4170 x 25 = 104250kcd

15meters:
low 29 x 225 = 6300kcd
med 149 x 225 = 33525kcd
high 342 x 225 = 76950kcd
turbo 479 x 225 = 107775kcd

Tom E Shocker with Samsung 20R’s
High:
5meter: 17900 x 25 = 447500kcd
15meters: 1994 x 225 = 448650kcd

I only measured on high for this one as I was interrupted…. and to be perfectly honest some of the people in this building I don’t want to be alone with in a dark basement… :open_mouth:

All torches were strapped to my new MacGyver’ed tripod mount while I went with the meter out in front to find the sweet spot for the reading. This is my first real decent attempt at taking readings so I don’t know how accurate I or the meter was in all this but the numbers look in the ball park. The distance should be within + or - 2 inches of those distances as I really focused on not moving horizontally and only vertically during the testing.

so your one of the lucky 3 that got one of his super shockers aye. those numbers are screamin, nice!

Wow! I feel somewhat relieved. Sometimes I dunno - am I the only crazy one seeing these #'s or am I just plain crazy ? Well Trent, you are the only chosen one at the moment - I'm having a tuff time repeating what I did there...

Oh - what's crazy is that your other lights are measuring a little low. A stock BTU with a DRY driver and 20Q's should be doing way better than that. Are you hunting for the brightest reading?

Crap! That mod'ed Shocker is freak'n awesome!! All the best with it! Oh btw, I'm ordering one of those FT camera lens bag you recommended for the Shocker (here), though I don't have a Shocker of my own yet .

I’m really sorry to hear your having problems with the others Tom… if you need me to take pictures of anything on this one just let me know and I am more than willing to and pass them back. I would love to be able to send it back for reference if needed but with shipping being what it is between us I definitely don’t think its worth it.

I tried hunting for the brightest reading but I think heat might have come into play with the other lights. I realized almost at the end of testing (just before the Tom E Shocker) that I definitely went the wrong way when testing. I tested from the lowest to highest settings with the lights on continuously which meant the stock BTU had been on for almost 5 minutes by the time I was done the measurements on turbo. This is the first time I have ever really tried to get accurate measurements for any of my torches and like all things a little practise will go a long way I’m sure. I will do a redo in the future just to confirm and add some additional known torches but perhaps my meter also reads a little on the low side of things.

The FT pouch is awesome. I just got another order with one of each in that series…. the largest one for my other shocker and the others to see what actual lenses will fit into them. Love those pouches especially for the money they are a killer deal! :bigsmile:

Thanx!! No, I think I know what's going on. But maybe you could do me a favor - put the Shocker on low mode and hold it up to a white wall from close in, maybe a 1/3 meter, and bring it to 2-3 meters. Let me know if you see any dark spots in the middle of the each of the 3 beams, or if dark spots appear close in and go away further you bring it out, if so, what distance do they first go away at.

I'm thinking yours is perfectly focused while the two I got here have a focusing problem. I'm seeing dark spots in the center of the beams on these, while I don't recall seeing any on yours. Makes sense because I can't get as high as throw #'s on these as yours, and I did a little tweek on one to bring the LED's closer into the reflector and the throw # improved and the dark spots weakened.


Taken at about 1 foot away from the wall, camera (phone) was just above the torch. The “holes/doughnuts” disappear completely at about 1 meter or 3 feet