Would love for a GB on these 
I think medium mode could be lower (around 500mA), other than that I’m pretty impressed with the results and flashlight itself.
Agreed, 4 mode would be really good!
Is there thermal paste under the star?
Oh yes, with separate side switch additional mode wouldn’t make it too complicated. But if there have to be just 3 modes, 80-500-3000mA combination would be better.
Yes, someone setup a group buy for these! The price seems pretty good already, though.
+1 :bigsmile:
I would gladly set one up but with my new job I have zip, zero, NO time to do this stuff 
Yes, it is a gray grease. Copper MCPCB.
Flat aluminum surface. There are machine marks so I polished mine up.
@f42, thanks for all details close up pics.
really well built and quality finishing.
does the side switch has any seal?
can water leak thru it?
I now have seen several side switch with metalic appearance and don’t have any waterproof seal at all.
and last, any outdoor beamshot at 100 m? 
The review title and the pictures from the website mentions an XM-L2 T5, the table in the review and the Aliexpress page mention it is a U2-1A. Are both versions available?
I’ve come to appreciate a side click light. Would be great to see this offered in a host only configuration, that way you could use a better copper base like a Noctigon, and pick your own driver and emitter.
Thanks for the review.
When you order from there just put into the little message box which led (and for some lights, which driver) you want. Further down on the listing for the L4 is a small chart with the other leds that are available for this torch:
Price List of the L4 flashlight
(unit: USD)
LED
XML2 U2-1A
XML2 T6-3B
XML2 T6-4C
XML2 T5-5B
XML2 T4-7A
add to your cart, add the message in the box, send it… wait for the reply with the OK and then pay for your order. That’s all I did for my M1.
…
So there’s visible PWM on the low modes? That’s a deal breaker for me. I can’t stand it on the SRK.
No-zero pwm, this light can even be used for photography lighting equipment lol
Thanks for clarifying! I usually aim it at the shower with the lights off. Tiny dots= PWM. No dots, no PWM.
The best way to test for leaks that will not damage the light is as follows:
- Loosen tail cap and place light in freezer for 20 minutes.
- Prepare sink full of warm water, about 50C is good (warm water will not cause lens to crack, but will cause the air inside the host body to expand).
- Take light out of freezer, tighten tail cap.
- Submerse light in the warm water and watch for bubbles coming from switches, tailcap, etc.
- Remove the light as soon as you have inspected it.
I have tested over 50 hosts this way to see if they meet IPX8. This method does not get water into the light because the pressure is coming from inside the host, therefore the inside of the host stays dry.
I normally just remove the battery and drop in if it is a p60 design and dunk it for an hour. Water is not acid to the electronics if it for leak……
You should really measure LED current on the LED itself, not on the tailcap.
LD-34 seems to be buck driver, unlike Nanjgs which are linear.
Buck drivers consume less current when the battery voltage is high, and more current when voltage is low. And the LED gets the same current, no matter what battery voltage is.
Anyway, thank you for the great review!
My “experience campain” L4 is still in transit
I might have to order one of these. I’m usually against strictly 18650-only lights so I appreciate that the L4 has an actual buck driver. It ought to accept higher voltages since it appears to be LD-34 driver in the BTU.