-

[Livinloud]

I would gladly set one up but with my new job I have zip, zero, NO time to do this stuff

[bdiddle]

@Werner

Is there thermal paste under the star?

Yes, it is a gray grease. Copper MCPCB.

Flat aluminum surface. There are machine marks so I polished mine up.

[sorotantaz]

@f42, thanks for all details close up pics.
really well built and quality finishing.

does the side switch has any seal?
can water leak thru it?

I now have seen several side switch with metalic appearance and don’t have any waterproof seal at all.

and last, any outdoor beamshot at 100 m?

[TSellers]

The review title and the pictures from the website mentions an XM-L2 T5, the table in the review and the Aliexpress page mention it is a U2-1A. Are both versions available?

I’ve come to appreciate a side click light. Would be great to see this offered in a host only configuration, that way you could use a better copper base like a Noctigon, and pick your own driver and emitter.

Thanks for the review.

[tkmckay]

When you order from there just put into the little message box which led (and for some lights, which driver) you want. Further down on the listing for the L4 is a small chart with the other leds that are available for this torch:
Price List of the L4 flashlight
(unit: USD)
LED
XML2 U2-1A
XML2 T6-3B
XML2 T6-4C
XML2 T5-5B
XML2 T4-7A

add to your cart, add the message in the box, send it… wait for the reply with the OK and then pay for your order. That’s all I did for my M1.

[f42]

…

[mhanlen]

So there’s visible PWM on the low modes? That’s a deal breaker for me. I can’t stand it on the SRK.

[f42]

@mhanlen

So there’s visible PWM on the low modes? That’s a deal breaker for me. I can’t stand it on the SRK.

No-zero pwm, this light can even be used for photography lighting equipment lol

-

delete

[mhanlen]

@f42

@mhanlen

So there’s visible PWM on the low modes? That’s a deal breaker for me. I can’t stand it on the SRK.

No-zero pwm, this light can even be used for photography lighting equipment lol

-

Thanks for clarifying! I usually aim it at the shower with the lights off. Tiny dots= PWM. No dots, no PWM.

[TSellers]

I applied some air pressure from outside didn’t notice a leak.

The best way to test for leaks that will not damage the light is as follows:

- Loosen tail cap and place light in freezer for 20 minutes.

- Prepare sink full of warm water, about 50C is good (warm water will not cause lens to crack, but will cause the air inside the host body to expand).

- Take light out of freezer, tighten tail cap.

- Submerse light in the warm water and watch for bubbles coming from switches, tailcap, etc.

• Remove the light as soon as you have inspected it.

I have tested over 50 hosts this way to see if they meet IPX8. This method does not get water into the light because the pressure is coming from inside the host, therefore the inside of the host stays dry.

[bdiddle]

I normally just remove the battery and drop in if it is a p60 design and dunk it for an hour. Water is not acid to the electronics if it for leak……

[AlexTG]

@f42

Maybe I am wrong, maybe my measurements are wrong, but I honestly didn’t like this driver.

You should really measure LED current on the LED itself, not on the tailcap.
LD-34 seems to be buck driver, unlike Nanjgs which are linear.
Buck drivers consume less current when the battery voltage is high, and more current when voltage is low. And the LED gets the same current, no matter what battery voltage is.

Anyway, thank you for the great review!
My “experience campain” L4 is still in transit

[Slim_Pickens]

I might have to order one of these. I’m usually against strictly 18650-only lights so I appreciate that the L4 has an actual buck driver. It ought to accept higher voltages since it appears to be LD-34 driver in the BTU.

[f42]

@TSellers

I applied some air pressure from outside didn’t notice a leak.

The best way to test for leaks that will not damage the light is as follows:

- Loosen tail cap and place light in freezer for 20 minutes.

- Prepare sink full of warm water, about 50C is good (warm water will not cause lens to crack, but will cause the air inside the host body to expand).

- Take light out of freezer, tighten tail cap.

- Submerse light in the warm water and watch for bubbles coming from switches, tailcap, etc.

• Remove the light as soon as you have inspected it.

I have tested over 50 hosts this way to see if they meet IPX8. This method does not get water into the light because the pressure is coming from inside the host, therefore the inside of the host stays dry.

@bdiddle

I normally just remove the battery and drop in if it is a p60 design and dunk it for an hour. Water is not acid to the electronics if it for leak……

Thanks for this nice tips TSellers, and bdiddle, I was thinking to pump some air from the tailcap side and see what happens

@AlexTG

@f42

Maybe I am wrong, maybe my measurements are wrong, but I honestly didn’t like this driver.

You should really measure LED current on the LED itself, not on the tailcap.
LD-34 seems to be buck driver, unlike Nanjgs which are linear.
Buck drivers consume less current when the battery voltage is high, and more current when voltage is low. And the LED gets the same current, no matter what battery voltage is.

Anyway, thank you for the great review!
My “experience campain” L4 is still in transit

you’re welcome AlexTG, I like this driver now! (zero-no pwm) I do not want to desolder the wires before I have to (I am not good at these things and do not have pro. equipments)

I hope you get your L4 soon!

@Slim Pickens

I’m usually against strictly 18650-only lights

I prefer them for their size

[TSellers]

I prefer them for their size

+1. If there was a better alternative I’d be happy to embrace it. But when you have to carry your light on you back for a day, to a week, along with perhaps 30 lbs of other items, it seems like the single 18650 configuration is the best bang for the buck.

[sorotantaz]

@f42

you’re welcome, I applied some air pressure from outside didn’t notice a leak.

Can not take outdoor beamshots esp. nowadays. I live in a downtown, with lots of buildings around and they are very close

For the GB, I think the price is really good for this light.

But, if there are many people who wants I can talk to him, any of you can talk to him too, he is very friendly

thanks f42 for the test. so can be confident to use this underwater.
now the promotion price is $29ish. if you willing to organize GB and get lower price, please let me know, I’ll definitely in

@TSellers

I applied some air pressure from outside didn’t notice a leak.

The best way to test for leaks that will not damage the light is as follows:

- Loosen tail cap and place light in freezer for 20 minutes.

- Prepare sink full of warm water, about 50C is good (warm water will not cause lens to crack, but will cause the air inside the host body to expand).

- Take light out of freezer, tighten tail cap.

- Submerse light in the warm water and watch for bubbles coming from switches, tailcap, etc.

• Remove the light as soon as you have inspected it.

I have tested over 50 hosts this way to see if they meet IPX8. This method does not get water into the light because the pressure is coming from inside the host, therefore the inside of the host stays dry.

thanks for the tips…when you do this, we take out all the inner parts or let them stay intact just like complete assembly?

[TSellers]

when you do this, we take out all the inner parts or let them stay intact just like complete assembly?

Is this in reference to the hydrostatic test I was describing? If so, I just remove the battery, and of course make sure the cap is loose enough that when the air contracts in the host while it is in the freezer, there is more air able to enter. Then as soon as you take it out of the freezer, you screw the tailcap on tight - and of course when the host warms up the air inside expands and if there are any gaps you’ll see bubbles escaping. If you only get a bubble every second or so then the light is probably about IPX4, as I’ve had lights like that out in the rain for hours with no problems. If you get a non-stop steady stream of bubbles then it may only be ‘splash resistant’. As long as you have bubbles then of course no water is entering the light so no damage is being done. Just take the light out of the water before the pressure reverses the other way, but you’ll still have lots of time to assess the bubbles before you take the light back out. I’ve found that on some lights both switches and threads can be prone to not sealing all that well. If you test all your IPX8 rated lights this way, you’ll probably be suprised at how many actually leak and are really IPX4 or worse.

[sorotantaz]

@TSellers

when you do this, we take out all the inner parts or let them stay intact just like complete assembly?

Is this in reference to the hydrostatic test I was describing? If so, I just remove the battery, and of course make sure the cap is loose enough that when the air contracts in the host while it is in the freezer, there is more air able to enter. Then as soon as you take it out of the freezer, you screw the tailcap on tight - and of course when the host warms up the air inside expands and if there are any gaps you’ll see bubbles escaping. If you only get a bubble every second or so then the light is probably about IPX4, as I’ve had lights like that out in the rain for hours with no problems. If you get a non-stop steady stream of bubbles then it may only be ‘splash resistant’. As long as you have bubbles then of course no water is entering the light so no damage is being done. Just take the light out of the water before the pressure reverses the other way, but you’ll still have lots of time to assess the bubbles before you take the light back out. I’ve found that on some lights both switches and threads can be prone to not sealing all that well. If you test all your IPX8 rated lights this way, you’ll probably be suprised at how many actually leak and are really IPX4 or worse.

yes, I refer to your reverse testing.
many thanks for the detail, will try that

[f42]

Just an update sorotantaz, and TSellers.

TSellers I didn’t use your technique to test but instead I used an air compressor …

Pumped great amount of air inside the light and air leaks around side switch just as sorotantaz said.

[TSellers]

Out of interest, I just did a seat of the pants test of a few lights I had kicking around:

From best to worst:

Convoy M1 and Solarforce L2N: No bubbles after 5 seconds: I’d consider these IPX8
Spark SL6S (side switch and tail cap leaks), Solarforce P1 and P1D (tail cap leaks): one bubble every 5 seconds. I’d call these IPX4
Maglight XL200: 10 bubbles in 5 sec’s (cap).
and the worst: Convoy C8 and COnvoy M2: steady stream of bubbles from the tailcaps, too many to count.

It would appear that with the Convoy’s, it’s a game of Roulette with the tail caps. I must have got a good tail cap on that M1. I can say I don’t share Foy’s enthusiasm for the form factor of the Solarforce L2N, and the battery cavity is too big in it, but it looks like it is the most waterproof of the lights, the only one that matches it in my collection that I’ve tested so far would be a Spark ST6 headlamp.