I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)

I wonder if Ric is watching your modding works and being surprised that how far his product can go? :bigsmile:

Tom, those numbers are awesome! Couldn’t be happier with your results. Way back when we first started talking about this I mentioned I was hoping for 3000 lumens and 300k. Your setup is waypast that even on good protected Keeppower cells. And with Samsungs, well over 4000 & 400k. Very cool!
I’ve got 20R’s waiting for it. If the 20R’s get no more boost, I’m still 100% cool with it. I’ll likely run it the KP’s 1/2 the time anyway.
These numbers out of a LED is phenomenal.

Or better still - Ric will sign a contract with TomE then start selling BTU Shocker ‘TomE’ Special Edition. :bigsmile:

Ok, couldn't leave well enuf alone... After routing out my 2nd Shocker reflector, think I needed to get closer to the LED openings. By checking the alignments with a Noctigon, thinking it could have been done better so maybe I wasn't getting it seated well. So, I re-worked the first one pictured above and made the cutouts bigger and closer to the LED openings. I think I'm seeing a little bump, maybe measuring 427 to 430 kcd now, but very hard to do at 5 meters. It certainly felt like the reflector dropped in place better. Ok - that's it for now. Onto shipping!! It would be much better I'm sure to test this thing at 15 meters or so. I'm seeing the same amp readings on Samsung 20Q's or 20R's. I believe SONY 30A's would read the same as well -- all about 6.0 amps across the switch.

I think when I measured 467 kcd on my first super thrower, I might have been getting reflected light on the meter - easy to do with a Shocker's wall of light it outputs. I still have a far from ideal setup for throw measuring, because indoors with white ceilings, could possibly impact the readings with reflection.

Very cool numbers Tom! And from personal experience, I know how tricky it can get taking throw numbers when they get so high of Kcd’s. Like I’ve said in the past, simply being off a foot can make 50-70k difference when taking a reading on a 400-500k light at 5m. So I’m sure reflected light, etc. can make a difference too.
And yeah I’m thinking 10-15m would be a little better for measuring this 400k + light.
Irregardless, your numbers are outstanding. And I’m sure you’ve sqeaked all there to be had out of this light. You have created another beast!

Got my Supershocker in from Tom today. For sure its a serious beast. Awesome combination of overall lumens and throw. Best I’ve seen in anything other than the very best HID’s.
Got a set a fresh charged Samsung 20R’s. All 3 were sitting at 4.21V. Loaded up the BTU and put it in the lightbox.
The results -
————————————————————
Start up/High———–4450 lumens
30 seconds/High——4260 lumens
Medium———————2080 lumens
Low——————————300 lumens
————————————————————-
So next up is throw. Also got out my TN31vn for comparison sakes and to make sure the meter is reading properly. Tested both multiple times at 5m and at 15m. And made sure I was accurate on my distances.
The results -
————————————————————
TN31vn - 5m ——- 442kcd
TN31vn - 15m ——–495kcd

BTU - 5m —————435kcd
BTU - 15m ————–477kcd
————————————————————
So the BTU was just a touch under the TN31vn. 477kcd out of a triple XML2 light - who would of thought such a thing was possible a year ago. And the BTU’s nice fat spot was much easier to duplicate its numbers vs the TN31’s narrow spot. And tint isn’t too bad either. A little on the warm side as is to be expected, but compared to my other dedomed lights brother and I have, it’s on the upper half temp wise. Just guessing, perhaps 4800k or so. But I’m far from an expert on tint.
I’m hoping to take it and a few other powerful lights out tomorrow night and do some beamshots.
Anyway, AWESOME LIGHT TOM!!!

Absolutely awesome results rdrfronty and another amazing build by Tom! Thanks for the light box test and the comparative results for my own light. I will definitely have to retest my meter readings to see if I can get in that range with a little more practice. Now I’m just waiting on my K40vn to cross the boarder and get to me I hope before I leave to do some camping in BC next week. If it makes it I should have some outstanding beam shot opportunities where I’m heading to compare them. :wink:

Here's pics of the re-work on the reflector, updated from previous (post #134).You should be able to notice the gouges from the Harbor Freight rotary tool (not dremel) are tighter to the LED holes and extend more towards the center. When I dropped the reflector onto the LED's, it sat down flat, nice. I wanted to avoid sharp edges from cutting wires, so I angle trimmed the edges then sanded all the edges down:

The driver:

Mounted, there's some slop but the retaining ring secures it down and it tightens up pretty good. I've been using CRC 2-26 in this area:

Tom, I do believe you’ve covered about every trick and tweak known to man to get these supershockers performing like you do.
I played a little more last night with my two shockers - my new BTU Supershocker(4260L & 477K) and my older BTU Shocker(3760L & 184K). Both lights were created by Tom E, I need to add. It was interesting comparing the two outside. Shooting them at a treeline about 150m away. First thing you notice is the tint. The new dedome shocker is a fairly warm, where as the older shocker is cool white. Both are fine to my eyes though with the dedomed shocker being a pleasant warm and domed shocker pure white. Next thing you notice after about 10 seconds is the dedomed shocker starts getting a little warm. The domed shocker was was still cool. But that’s to be expected with the dedomed light pushing 6A per LED, for a total of 18A. That’s a lot of power coming through that light and heat is the obvious by factor of that. Good thing these BTU’s are big heavy lights to help safely and properly get that heat dissipated. Now big & heavy is a good thing :slight_smile:
Anyway, both lights are very impressive. Both have awesome flood and both have awesome throw. After that, you do obviously notice the much more intense hotspot of the Supershocker. At 150m it was pretty darn bright. Flood coverage is still about the same on both, but a little brighter on domed BTU. The slight lack of light in the flood, and I do mean slight, on the Supershocker obviously is gathered up and concentrated in the center for the awesome throw.
What I think is awesome about these modded BTU’s is just how much area is lit up. Even the dedomed Supershocker with a 477Kcd literally lights up everything in front of you. And even though it has an intense spot, that spot isn’t well defined. It just slowly gets less intense the further away from the center you get. As apposed to some of my other serious single LED throwers like the TN31vn, K40vn, and SBT70 powered SR90. Those 3 lights all have VERY intense spots, very well defined one. And they all have a nice spill. However you have an immediate and serious drop of of lux from that spot to the spill. And the spill on those lights generally isn’t too usuable. Mainly I think that’s from the bright hotspot messing with your eyes and not allowing you to see much in the greatly diminished spill.
The Supershocker doesn’t have that issue. You see everything VERY well from the center until the light basically stops in the sides. You do have some slight rings for the last few degrees on the outside that is dim, as is typical for most triple LED lights. But 95% of the coverage from these lights is nice and bright. Like I said above you do see a slight loss in spill lux for the Supershocker vs the domed shocker, but its still very impressive.
So Tom I do believe all your hard work has paid off. My original BTU is still one of the most impressive lights I’ve ever held in my hands that still retains full regulation while still retaining decent runtime and worry free operation. And the Supershocker is simply a work of art. Getting 4260L and 477Kcd out of a LED light is unquestionably amazing. Nothing even comes close to it in the LED market. We’ve had 3 HID’s since we’ve started this hobby. A 35Wt Ryobi, a 85wt Yezl, and 60wt FF4. The Ryobi get spanked bad. My stock BTU even beat it. Now the 85wt Yezl, modded one at that, gives the Supershocker a run at least. But still gets beat soundly. The Supershocker lacks about 440 lumens vs the Yezl on high, but that slight difference is killed with the 477kcd of the BTU vs 291Kcd of the Yezl. Next up is the FF4. Now the Supershocker and 60w FF4 are a pretty even match. The FF4 does easily beat the Supershocker on high with 7000L even squeaks past it in medium with 5200L. The Supershocker does still at least stay in the lumen run with 4260L and takes the win in throw with 477Kcd vs 430Kcd of the FF4. Now the FF4 does over better runtime with the 4 cells and lower amp requirement. But the FF4 does have very limited runtime on high too. And then you got that annoying warmup time HID’s require. Takes a good full minute for the FF4 to get close to full power. By then you’ve used 1/3 of your allowed 3 min high time. So basically I say these two lights are a draw. And I think that’s saying something. The FF4 is likely the best performing non short-arc HID on the market. For a LED to even compete with it, and in this case & and in my opinion match it - is simply quite impressive.
Thanks Tom for the awesome light (lights in my case)!!!

Thanks for the extra info to you all. Its amazing reading about all your experiences with these lights that most of us will never own.

that is absolutely amazing! i still cant really believe it myself. that is crazy high lumens for something that throws that damn far.
i cant imagine how the beam looks. it must light up a good decent area close by and also see a pretty big hot spot hundreds of meters away.
cant wait to see beam shots on this bad boy foreals. one of the baddest lights out there right now!

Quick question for you Tom E or whoever has experience with one of these: are you using 16mm or 20mm stars for these mods? I read in an earlier thread that the stock stars are 16mm, but that 20mm will fit. Is that correct?

I’ll jump in here quickly but go by Tom’s final word on the matter. There is tonnes of space on that emitter plate, 20mm stars should work fine and would be my preference.
Have you got yourself a shocker project on the go as well? hehe :stuck_out_tongue:

I could be wrong but it looks like the pictures posted in the previous page are 20mm noctigons.

Oh - Yes, always used 20's, and yes - stocks are 16's. My last 2 were mods of mods, so, I de-domed existing ones on SinkPAD's, but my last full mods I've been using Noctigon's. Really dunno bout any differences, but possibly the SinkPAD's do very little, slightly better. OF course my favorite tint to de-dome is a 1A. The 1C's come out too yellow. 0D would be better, but not worth dropping from a U2 to T6 bin just to get a 0D tint.

Now I'm been tweaking the super shocker mod all along. With the IOS driver, back and forth with 22 gauge vs 20 gauge wires, and whether to use the thermal pad the driver comes with, or pot it with Fujik epoxy... Someone posted interesting info bout pads and potting, that they are pretty ineffective unless connected to a heat sink in close proximity. So, I'm thinking it may not be doing much, but hope it doesn't make it worse...

I just pulled the trigger on a Shocker. I sold or am selling some other lights to pay for this thing but I just couldn’t resist. I don’t know how much I’ll actually end up using it since it’s so big but I had to try my hand at modding this thing. I have a good blueprint right here in this thread. Not looking to do anything as innovative as Linus :slight_smile:

Recently did a couple of super Shocker mods to Shockers I previously modded, before I knew what I know now, or thought I knew, and might know better now... You know what I mean, or used to mean...

I had one major problem with my reflector modding:

Took it a little too far, so now I'm doing it differently. Bought this kit from FT:

Not so aggressive on the cuts near the LED holes now -- worked out well. Then de-domed the emitters:

Picture light provided by a XM-L2 U2 1A:

Picture light provided by a XM-L2 T3 6A1:

Cleaned up and mounted using AS5:

Some other stuff used:

Thanks for the tips! I’ve got the same sort of bits and am even using the same harbor freight rotary tool. Those type of bits work well on aluminum because they don’t load up easily.

Offtopic: How do you like that rotary tool?

It’s been pretty good for me so far. A good value. I’ve had some of the cheaper genuine Dremel models in the past and IMO this is on par. As with anything harbor freight, wait until it goes on sale and then stack your 25% off coupon on top of the sale price. The cheaper rotary tool from harbor freight is a piece of junk.