BTU Shocker Triple MT-G2 with a twist -- Aiming for >100Watt ~9000Lumens -- With external 2S power pack, handle etc...

Great job wut a monster!

Well, a small update in the grand scheme of things but I succeeded in flashing my first nanjg 105c driver with custom firmware today!
Took a fair bit of reading, fiddling with SOIC clips and hitting dead ends with eXtreme AVR Burner before I finally got things working with AVRDude.
I couldn’t have done it without the great wiki resources and threads offered by users of this forum so thanks a lot to all involved :slight_smile:

Being able to flash custom firmware will be super handy in getting the precise driver modes and operation I want in this flashlight. Not to mention any other light. I’m pleased I have that hurdle crossed.

Cheers

Well done. Congratulations is in order. :beer:

Bomb build, nice!

Thanks guys!

This might save someone some frustration when attempting to program atmel chips with a SOIC clip from ebay. Like this one

I had some communication issues at first and it was frustrating because I wasn’t sure if I had messed up the pinout or if it was a software issue.
Turns out it was because of the clip. The little copper tabs/pins on my clip tend to move and slide inwards if pushed, and it’s very easy to accidentally push them in when trying to make a good contact on a chip that’s soldered to the driver board. Once they’re no longer at the very tip of the clip grooves they won’t make good contact anymore and you’ll often fail to connect to the chip.

Solution that I came up with in frustration was to dab a touch of super glue into the pin guides inside the clip. First pull/push the pins forward as far at they will go and then apply a small drop of contact adhesive where you see the copper pins run inside the clip. Careful to avoid getting any on the contacts or at the back where they mate with the cable pins. I accidentally seeped some glue in to one wire contact so that one is now permanently attached…whoops :stuck_out_tongue:
Anyway the glue holds the pins in place solidly and I can now clip on with perfect contact every time, even on tight pcbs layouts like the nanjg 101c :slight_smile:

Looking at the clip, maybe it’s just mine but it seems these pins aren’t held in there particularly well, looks like the plastic has just been melted down around them.
So if you have this similar problem just glue the buggers down :slight_smile:

First in line for production model.

Lol, something tells me this will be a one of a kind light

hehe, how many can I put you down for? :bigsmile:

This is starting to remind me of the first project light i built of this nature. :slight_smile: i like these weaponized designs using gun parts and Pitticany rail mounts. :stuck_out_tongue:

Making me want to buy 2 BTU Shockers and mount them to both sides of an AR-15 (maybe a third for under barrel mount) just for the comedic value that will provide.

hehe, awesome! The pure definition of “tacticool” I think you’ll find :slight_smile:

lol thats pretty fun but cool at the same time.
i would have liked it if you used something shorter than that big o trustfire….then itll really look like a pistol…heheh

Would u have a pic of the stock heat sink ?

You mean the pill/finned section of the light?

This is an amazing build. And yes, those SOIC clips can be a pain. I've gone through a couple 3M ones out of frustration when they wouldn't connect. Congrats on getting the programming working!

Small update on the Tailcap.

I reamed out the switch-boot opening to accommodate the XLR male socket, then drilled/tapped two holes from the inside and bolted the panel mount socket into place, nothing too complicated.
If I decide to go for the optional internal 18650 power I’ll probably need to mount this panel to the outside of the switchboot opening instead. Otherwise clearance inside the battery tube is going to be tight.
But for now I’ll leave it like this.


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It works good as it is but there’s a few things that could be improved.
When testing with the battery cord I noticed that the current XLR plug coming from the pack is a little long and undergoes a far bit of leverage force with the heavy cord hanging off it. Also the plastic internals and especially the plastic retaining ring on this XLR socket aren’t really inspiring too much confidence in reliability. I’ve got some shorter plugs and an all metal socket on order which will hopefully make the setup more compact and sturdy.

Can’t wait to get those MT-G2s now! :slight_smile:

yes

Sure, I’ll take some next time I have the light apart. Anything in particular you want to see?

Just a pic of it with the driver would be great

Here’s some photos I took today of the head disassembled and showing the “pill” section in detail.
Hope they help. If you need any specific dimensions from any of this stuff let me know.



The “pill” is a single piece of aluminium but is mostly hollow. The driver cavity is massive and there is only a 2mm thick plate seperating it and the area the emitters sit on. It’s actually quite light, (comparatively hehe) especially when compared to the reflector but it’s not all bad news since the emitters actually sit on the outside of the emitter shelf. This is milled out of the solid walls of the pill and the the fins are directly below.

I also wanted to do a direct comparison between an Ultrafire C8 reflector and the BTU reflector array since that seems to be a common comparison people make.
I’ve seen people make the assumption that the BTU reflector is basically like 3 C8s side by side and extrapolate estimated throw figures based on that.
Ultimately it’s not a fair comparison because the BTU reflector cups are both wider and considerably deeper than a standard C8 reflector.
I don’t know exactly how much this affects any throw calculations or whatnot but it’s something to keep in mind :slight_smile:

  • BTU reflector size is 48mm deep x 43mm wide
  • C8 Reflector size is 31.5mm deep x 38mm wide

The C8 reflector feels like it’s made of paper after handling this beast! :stuck_out_tongue:

Cheers