I got the driver from FastTech. I was lucky and mine were all the “good” versions. They’re all out of stock now. I think Tom E scooped them all up.
Damn Tom E. If he wasn't such a nice guy, I'd suggest we all go over there, rough him up, and give the emitters to the more needy (i.e. me).
Is the bezel SS on this light? I've been debating whether to get one - AliExpress listing shows a 40 mm head diameter, so smaller than a C8, bigger than a Convoy M1.
Wait - I never bought an East-092 driver -- ugh, never would want to 
. I hate 5 mode direct drives -- stacked Nangj, custom programmed is all I do in the 17mm single cell format. Got some from HD2010's and C8's, maybe 1 or 2 other light types. I got quite a few laying around here in my pulled driver pile though... Haven't counted them up.
I’m pretty sure the bezel ring is aluminum…nicely finished. The OD of the ring is 40mm. The convoy M1 is pretty much the same size as the Roche F8 pictured along with the Tangsfire HD2010
If you are going to mod for de-dome and throw, this light is perfect for DD with just a contact board. The host can easily handle the heat, and who needs modes with a thrower anyway.
How many do you want? Like I said, I got a few pulled from lights.
I was mistaken Tom. It was Hyprmtr that ordered something like seventy of them.
This is the same light.https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19542
And this https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18623
I also have the Paulsen, like yours, nice light!
No prob ouchy... relic38 said his light from DX has a plated aluminum bezel, and from everyone is saying, these are purely identical, so guess WB is the best deal for the price - just ordered one with the WALLBUYSALLMAGIC code, so came to $16.50 w/no tracking.
Tom E wrote:
How many do you want? Like I said, I got a few pulled from lights.
I was mostly just playing around, but I'd like to buy some if you don't think you will need them. I'll PM you.
Nice mod! :) Thanks for sharing..
Nice review and sweet mod. 
Great idea with the copper jewelry pins.
After playing with this light for a week now, I’m still very happy with it…but…the green tint is becoming more and more noticeable to my eyes.
This was my first de-doming. And I was very happy that it was easy, and successful.
I used the stock emitter that claimed to be an XM-L U2, but it could be anything.
Are these weird tints common with de doming? Can I obtain a whiter beam with a different LED. I really don’t want to waste a bunch of new XM-L2s in a futile search of a nice tint.
Can anyone give me some hints on what to expect from various LEDs after de-doming?
1A/1D gets less green looking compared to 1C or 1B. Many of the typical stock emitters seems to be around 1C..
This post gives a simplified example of how the tint changes after dedoming and how to fix that kind of tint in multiemitter lights. More info in that thread..
So, “less green looking” means I’m always going to get a bit of green or yellowish tint? I figured it would get whiter after de-dome. I was worried that it would end up bluish.
No, it's been mentioned many times: de-doming always goes more neutral, that's why you want to start out with the coolest white, because even a 1A comes out in the neighborhood of 3C. 0D's and 1A's come out pretty good. 1C's are too yellow/green for my taste. If they were a nice looking warm tint, then it would be fine, but I've seen much better looking warm tints w/dome than a de-domed 1C. It's not awful-awful, but be warned.
What about an XM-L U3. I’ve got one laying about that I never bother with because I felt it might be too blue/violet for my tastes.
Well U3 is a bin, not a tint. If you are saying it looks blue/violet, then it's maybe a cool 1A so good for de-doming. I don't de-dome XML's (rather spend the $5-$6 for XM-L2), but should work ok.
I had taken the 26650 out of my Paisen so I could run tests on three HD2010s. Tonight I put the cell back in and got 2A. I tried another and got 2A. By the time I tried the third, it didn’t work at all. I did some tests and finally determined that the emitter must be dead. I guess the dedomed XML is more fragile. I had the reflector, and the centering ring off and on a few times for sanding, so I could raise the emitter a bit. Something delicate might have got bumped.
I’m not sure if I’ll just stick in a regular emitter, as I didn’t care much for the greenish tint I got. Actually I have a couple of XM-L T6 0D that I’ll probably never use. Maybe they will produce a nicer de domed tint. I also have some XM-L2 U2 1D in the mail. Perhaps I’d better experiment with the older XML 0D first.
i love this host - just got mine tonight… im planning a low resistance direct drive imr 26650 with a xml2 u2 on noctigon… i might even try to add more mass to the pill 